2001 Pathy - OEM Clutch?

[Gehrkmania]

Hi guys! We have a 2001 Pathy with a manual transmission. 110K miles on the clock. It's started making a groaning/grinding noise when the clutch pedal is pressed in and it's in gear. It goes away if I either pop it into neutral or when I pull the clutch pedal back out while in gear. Seems to only happen when the truck is moving.

Our local Nissan mechanic diagnosed it as a bad throwout bearing and prescribed a clutch replacement for a mere $1,700.

I'm leaning toward doing this myself if it's definitely necessary, and want to make sure I get the best parts. It's a pretty gently driven daily-driver, so I don't need a high-performance setup. The Nissan Parts Dept quoted me $620 for their clutch kit C000A-AA06JNW.

Assuming that this job is needed, and the OEM clutch setup is the way to go - do you guys know for sure who actually makes the OEM clutch parts? I've seen references to Exedy and to Valeo. I see kits by both mfr's on Rock Auto for around $200. Definitely would rather pay $200 than $600 if I'm going to get the same kit.

Thanks in advance!

[Hooligan]

I would think that a bad throwout bearing would make noise whenever the clutch is depress both in gear or in neutral. The loading on the bearing would be the same either way.

[Gehrkmania]

Any other ideas on a culprit if not the throwout bearing?

Driveshaft? Rear end? A different bearing?

[Hooligan]

If your observations are correct and it's only making noise when the vehicle is moving, with your foot on the clutch and, the shifter in gear then I would look at the splined shaft that engages the clutch disc and especially the bushing where it rides in the flywheel flange. Likely the bushing is badly worn. That bushing would be part of a complete clutch kit.

[smj999smj]

The number you gave is for the Key Value clutch kit. It's not necessarily made by the OE supplier of the factory clutch, but made to Nissan specs at a "competitive price" with the aftermarket, as they say. When I left Nissan in 2003, the key value kits were made by Valeo. CourtesyParts.com has the kit for $451+shipping.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/c000aaa06jnw

Exedy is made in Japan and I believe the are an OE supplier to Nissan. I know Beck-Arnley often sells OE parts and the clutch kit they sell is from Exedy. It's a very popular brand for clutches in Nissans and Rockauto currently has a warehouse closeout on the Exedy clutch kit for $112. That would be they way I'd go...and I'm pretty particular about the parts I use in my vehicles. The Beck-Arnley kit is twice that price for essentially the same kit. Make sure you disconnect the throwout bearing before you try to remove the transmission. Consult the service manual for the procedure.

[Gehrkmania]

OK great - that's what I was hoping on the kit.

What else should I plan for while the transmission is out? Any other bearings, seals, fluids, etc. that should be replaced?

Thank you!

[Hooligan]

It would all depend on how many miles on the vehicle and, how long you plan to keep it. The surface of the flywheel where the clutch disc rides should be looked at. The smooth glaze should be roughed up with some fine grit emory cloth in a circular (wax on, wax off) rubbing pattern. Do that before changing the bushing. Put a little dab of good grease on the bushing after changing it.

[Gehrkmania]

We bought this one new and have babied it. It has around 111K miles on it, and we're planning to keep it until it disintegrates.

I'll make sure to check the flywheel and rough up the smooth part.

What else should I look for and swap out while it's all taken apart? Any pieces that wouldn't normally come with the clutch kit?

Thank you!

[Hooligan]

Are you going to do the job yourself? Are you working alone? Do you have a transmission jack? If yes to all of the above, do you have experience? A service manual?

[smj999smj]

Don't put grease on the pilot bushing, as someone mentioned. Nissan pilot bushings are meant to be installed without grease. You could replace the rear main seal on the engine, while you are there. While the trans is out, look at the back of the heads and make sure there is no coolant leakage at the coolant transfer pipe that runs between the cylinder heads.

[Gehrkmania]

Yes, I'm planning to do the job myself. Most likely will be working alone in my garage. I can either buy a transmission jack, or borrow a friend's motorcycle jack.

I do have a fair amount of experience working on cars - just not this particular job. I have a copy of the FSM and will be combing the interwebs for "stuff the manual doesn't tell you" while waiting for the clutch kit to arrive (I ordered one of the Exedy kits from Rock Auto today).

I'm definitely open to tips/suggestions/warnings/etc. from you guys, so know that your input is greatly valued.

Thank you!

[Gehrkmania]

The clutch kit should be here on Wednesday, so I'll get the truck up on jack stands and start collecting the other bits.

Speaking of other bits. What else will I need, other than:

Clutch kit
Rear main seal
Clutch sleeve grease (if not in clutch kit)
Tools (anything really specialized here, other than a tranny jack?)
Any gaskets or sealants needed?

Also, would you recommend changing the MT and differential fluids while I'm at this? Mine both have around 60K miles since the last change, and I think I used
Redline MT-90 and 75w90 the last time. If so, would you recommend those same oils, or something else?

Thank you!

[Hooligan]

Look at the tool list in the service manual. The tool recommended to remove the bushing is a slide hammer. No complete toolbox should be without one. To press the new bushing in something can be fashioned out of a piece of hardwood with a little bit of imagination. The clutch alignment tool should be part of the kit.

[smj999smj]

There is a tool to install the pilot bushing. Check with your local auto parts store to see what loaner tools they have available.

[Gehrkmania]

OK - so here's what's been done at this point:

Drained the transmission
Disconnected the shifter
Separated the driveshaft in the middle and pulled front piece from transmission (rear piece is resting on a jack stand)
Unbolted clutch slave cylinder (hanging from a bungee)
Unbolted starter (haven't completely removed it - but backed it out a bit)
Unbolted all but one (I think) of the bolts connecting the tranny to the engine (I hand-tightened 3 of the bottom bolts and will take them out right before I put the jack under it)

A couple of questions:

With the car on jack stands, what's the best way to get those 2 bolts at the top of the bellhousing out (and back in)? I got one out using extensions and a wobble, but it was blind and there's no way I'll be able to put it back in like that.

Also, is it necessary to pull the clutch withdrawal lever out before pulling the transmission? I'm seeing what look like conflicting instructions in the manual about that part.

Man - having a garage with a lift would really be nice right about now!