2012 Pathfinder Brake Squeal

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Stone
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2012 Pathfinder Brake Squeal

Postby Stone » Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:32 am

Folks -

I just purchased a 2012 Pathfinder SV. I have a few questions regarding the brakes I have recently noticed. I get some very noticeable brake squeal when I first drive the car after it has been sitting a bit, typically overnight. It only lasts for the first few moments of braking, usually when backing out of my garage. I've also noticed what appears to be a fair amount of brake dust on the front wheels. I haven't had a chance to pull the wheels and take a good look since it's been very cold here in the Midwest of late, but wondering if the two items are related, perhaps the type of pads used?

Appreciate any input you good folks have as to what this is and how to fix based on your experiences.

Thanks.


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Jan 08, 2018 2:45 pm

Brake squeal has been an issue on a lot of vehicles ever since they stopped used asbestos in brake pads. Pad composition, excessive dust build-up and/or lack of lubrication on the brake pad hardware can all lead to brake squeal. There are also warning "squealers" mounted to the pads to warn of when the pads are getting low. So, if not done already, it would be a good idea just to make sure the brakes have good lining left. Using brake cleaner to wash down the brakes and remove the dust would be a good idea. If you want to take it a step further, you can remove the pads and coat the contact surfaces of the abutment clips and the metal shims on the back of the pads with a thin layer of copper-slip or brake-specific grease and re-assemble. While apart, the brake caliper slide pins should also be checked to make sure they slide freely.

Stone
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Postby Stone » Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:47 pm

smj999smj -

Thank you for the thorough response. Based on what I have read, it sounds like what is happening is surface rust being removed via the brake pads since it only occurs after they have say for a while (overnight, all day in the work parking lot). What would be recommendations for which rotors and pads are best to avoid this? I've never had a vehicle do this before, esp as loud as what this pathfinder is doing.

Thanks!

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Tue Jan 09, 2018 9:50 pm

While Akebono makes a lot of the OE pads for Nissans, it seems Hitachi makes the majority of pads for the R51. I had a set of genuine Nissan (Hitachi) pads put on my 06 Pathfinder when I first purchased it and always had squeak issues at low speeds. I later swapped them out for Akebono Pro ACT ceramic pads and they were quiet and similar in performance to the genuine Nissan pads. On my 08 Pathy, I tried a set of Wagner OEX1094 ceramic pads on the front and even though they look a little weird, they've been quiet and do seem to stop a little better than the Akebono's, plus they are about half of the price. I've used Raybestos Professional Series ceramics on the rear of my 06 Pathy and they have performed well so far. So, I would say the Wagner OEX and the Raybestos Professional Series ceramics have been the best, so far, that I've used. While I haven't used them personally, I have heard of people using Centric and Powerstop pads and have been happy with them.

As far as rotors, I've used genuine Nissan, Wagner and Raybestos Professional Series Advanced Technology. All of them at some point have developed a little pulsation under hard braking, but the Wagners took the longest to do so...probably around 90,000 miles...so, I really can't complain! Again, I've heard good things about Centric and Powerstop, but I've never used them. All of these pads and rotors can be purchased from Rockauto.com. The factory pads are ceramics, so I would stick with that regardless of what brand you go with.

On my 06, I've been planning on going with the larger front brakes from the V8 model and going with EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads and EBC Sport rotors on the front and rear in the not so far off future, possibly going with stainless steel braided brake hoses, as well. Hoping to get a little better brake performance. Stay tuned!

Stone
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Postby Stone » Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:16 am

Thanks again for putting the time in for the response, appreciate it.

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Postby eieio » Thu Feb 20, 2020 1:53 pm

smj999smj wrote: If you want to take it a step further, you can remove the pads and coat the contact surfaces of the abutment clips and the metal shims on the back of the pads with a thin layer of copper-slip or brake-specific grease and re-assemble. While apart, the brake caliper slide pins should also be checked to make sure they slide freely.
Pads & rotors look good, but brakes are squeaking upon light application (and only below 10 mph).
I'm going to clean the pads and calipers and reassemble without replacement parts (unless necessary).
Should there be grease only between the brake pad the inner shim?
Should there be grease between the shim & shim cover as well?
Is a silicone brake grease (Sil-Glyde by AGS, for example) OK?
https://agscompany.com/product/sil-glyd ... tube-4-oz/
Is a 4oz tube sufficient for 4 calipers?
Also, if the caliper slide pins don't move freely and I lube them (same grease?), what is the torque spec for the sliding pins?
I couldn't find that in the service manual (only specifies torque for the sliding pin bolts).
Thanks very much!

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Postby smj999smj » Sat Feb 22, 2020 3:27 am

I've haven't used Sli-Glyde, but I have used Nissan Silicone Grease, which was a paste-like consistency. It worked great for the caliper slide pins! A couple of things about the slide pins.. First, to answer your question, the slide pins don't have a torque spec because they simply slide into the bore of the caliper bracket. One of those slide pins (on each caliper) will have a rubber bushing on it; these are available as part of a brake pin boot kit, which will have two bushings and four pin boots to service one axle. Sometimes when you remove the pin (in my experience, especially true on the rear brakes on the R51), the bushing will swell and make it very difficult...if not impossible...to reinstall the pin. The boot kits are usually only a few dollars and if you plan to lube the slide pins, it may save you a major headache if you purchased them prior to working on the vehicle because the local parts store may or may not have them in stock. Also, don't over-grease the pins because you might not be able to get them into the bracket bore. You want the pins to be free of rust with a light coating of lube on them. The bolts that screw into the slide pins, which hold the caliper to the bracket, have a torque spec of 32 lb-ft.
As far as lube on the pads, you want a generous amount where the end tabs of the pads and the abutment clips make contact. You want a thin layer of lubricant between the back side of the pad and the inner shim, between the inner and outer shim and on the outer shim. You don't want to go with a thick layer because you don't want it coming off of the brake pad and getting onto the pad lining nor rotor surface. It also doesn't hurt to use deglaze the pad lining and rotor surface with some 120 grit sandpaper. For the pads, wrap the sandpaper around a flat sanding block or similar and run the pad across it. Of course, do this before you start lubing everything! With the rotors, spray them down with brake cleaner after scuffing them up.

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:27 am

smj999smj wrote:I've haven't used Sli-Glyde, but I have used Nissan Silicone Grease, which was a paste-like consistency. It worked great for the caliper slide pins! A couple of things about the slide pins.. First, to answer your question, the slide pins don't have a torque spec because they simply slide into the bore of the caliper bracket. One of those slide pins (on each caliper) will have a rubber bushing on it; these are available as part of a brake pin boot kit, which will have two bushings and four pin boots to service one axle. Sometimes when you remove the pin (in my experience, especially true on the rear brakes on the R51), the bushing will swell and make it very difficult...if not impossible...to reinstall the pin. The boot kits are usually only a few dollars and if you plan to lube the slide pins, it may save you a major headache if you purchased them prior to working on the vehicle because the local parts store may or may not have them in stock. Also, don't over-grease the pins because you might not be able to get them into the bracket bore. You want the pins to be free of rust with a light coating of lube on them. The bolts that screw into the slide pins, which hold the caliper to the bracket, have a torque spec of 32 lb-ft.
As far as lube on the pads, you want a generous amount where the end tabs of the pads and the abutment clips make contact. You want a thin layer of lubricant between the back side of the pad and the inner shim, between the inner and outer shim and on the outer shim. You don't want to go with a thick layer because you don't want it coming off of the brake pad and getting onto the pad lining nor rotor surface. It also doesn't hurt to use deglaze the pad lining and rotor surface with some 120 grit sandpaper. For the pads, wrap the sandpaper around a flat sanding block or similar and run the pad across it. Of course, do this before you start lubing everything! With the rotors, spray them down with brake cleaner after scuffing them up.
You are always so thorough & helpful, THANK YOU!
Do you have a preference for a particular brand of brake pin boot kits?
The auto parts store catalogs seem a bit inconsistent in model/year applications.
Some of them don't even differentiate between front & rear, or offer both front & rear.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sun Feb 23, 2020 2:47 am

The caliper pin boot kits are all about the same. Rockauto sells AC Delco 18K2071 (front) and 18K1382 (rear), Carlson 16185 (front) and 16055 (rear) and Raybestos H16185 (front) and H16013 (rear). Advance Auto Parts sells Wearever 18021A (rear) and 16185 (front)...which may or may not be in-stock at your local store, but can be ordered.

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Thu Feb 27, 2020 7:56 am

smj999smj wrote:The caliper pin boot kits are all about the same. Rockauto sells AC Delco 18K2071 (front) and 18K1382 (rear), Carlson 16185 (front) and 16055 (rear) and Raybestos H16185 (front) and H16013 (rear). Advance Auto Parts sells Wearever 18021A (rear) and 16185 (front)...which may or may not be in-stock at your local store, but can be ordered.
Thank you for the part numbers!


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