Moderator: volvite
I'm sold on the bypass. I am sure there are great guides out here for this. If it's that simple - I am doing it.doctahjones wrote:seems like a decent deal to me. lowest i can find is ~$18,500 from a dealer.
unless you're going to be doing some heavy towing or going up 10% grade hills on a regular basis, just do the bypass.
i just bypassed mine, takes about 5 minutes (with a power screwdriver) to undo the bottom skid plates, about 5 minutes (if you buy the right connector the first time) to do the bypass, and about 5 minutes to put the plates back on. you don't even have to get -under- the car. i mean it's so easy my wife could have done the bypass for me if i were physically unable to do it.
also the bypass should cost you about $10 or less in parts, depending if you can buy the individual plastic pieces or if you have to buy a "connector assortment" to get the right size.
"covered by extended warranty" doesn't mean if you blow your tranny because the radiator failed that you get everything replaced for free. that only happens at 36k and under. after that it's a prorated scale for how much you have to pay (according to the letter i got from nissan about it). if it failed at say 70k, you're still out of pocket ~$3k i think. it's better than then $5k+ if you had no warranty, but still....DanJetta wrote:The radiator/trannie are still covered under the extended 80K mile warranty, so you have a while before you have to worry about it. Put some money in a piggy bank every month so by the time you hit 80K you can throw in a new radiator. Or make it a part of your 100K mile service.
Not true at all. Most (probably all) banks hold cashiers checks because there is so much fraud with them now. The only way I'll take a cashiers check is if the buyer is willing to wait the 5-6 days for it to clear. Might as well just take a personal check.cabinpath wrote: Like really???? It's basically cash.
it's definitely that easy. i'd even give you my cell and i can walk you through it if you need.cabinpath wrote: I'm sold on the bypass. I am sure there are great guides out here for this. If it's that simple - I am doing it.
First, a certified check from bank of america is like cash. You are talking fake checks made out by individuals/small fake companies.. not really an apple to apple kind of comparison to say the least. When I make out a certified check it is made by me to someone else. Here, it is a check made out BY bank of america to someone else. Now, to forge their certification ,bank account, signature, and so on....... not easy. I wonder if you can show one example of this EVER happening... Examples of fake certified checks?? I am sure there millions but this 99.9% of them were "made out" by people or fake companies. Not by 'too big to fail banks'.skinny2 wrote:Not true at all. Most (probably all) banks hold cashiers checks because there is so much fraud with them now. The only way I'll take a cashiers check is if the buyer is willing to wait the 5-6 days for it to clear. Might as well just take a personal check.cabinpath wrote: Like really???? It's basically cash.
Also, does he have clear title? Cash can be risky for a buyer if the guy has to pay off his loan. I've bought/sold a bunch of private party vehicles and there are a lot of ways to get ripped if you aren't on top of things.
Thanks man! I might pm you about it soondoctahjones wrote:it's definitely that easy. i'd even give you my cell and i can walk you through it if you need.cabinpath wrote: I'm sold on the bypass. I am sure there are great guides out here for this. If it's that simple - I am doing it.
here's my writeup on what i did:
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=9717
if you're not towing/hauling 5000 extra pounds everytime you're driving, and as you're not doing 70mph+ while in 2nd or 3rd gear for the whole trip, you'll also be fine. basically if you drive it like 95% of people do, then it's no problem. you also should have a small cooler in front of the radiator (lower drivers side) so it's not like you're totally taking out cooling. which technically under regular driving conditions the radiator will heat up the trans fluid since normal coolant temps on my bully dog show 190F but trans shows 150F. it's only when you start approaching the critical trans fluid temp of 220F that the radiator would provide any help.cabinpath wrote:Thanks man! I might pm you about it soondoctahjones wrote:it's definitely that easy. i'd even give you my cell and i can walk you through it if you need.cabinpath wrote: I'm sold on the bypass. I am sure there are great guides out here for this. If it's that simple - I am doing it.
here's my writeup on what i did:
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=9717
I am really not going to wait on this bypass if I do get this car in the next couple of days.
I will basically never tow anything. I do drive from NYC to Port Jervis (200 miles round trip) 3 times a month. Plus I drive up to Rochester from NY (6.5 hours) at least 3 times a year. Too much for the bypass?
Just in general, how much will a radiator + labor cost me?
Funny that Nissan hasn't offered such a solution... Seems to make more financial sense than the Russian roulette of having a customer call up with a busted tranny and radiator.
That is right and will be a shame.DanJetta wrote:The radiator/transmission issue is warrantied with no customer co-pay for 8 years/80,000 miles (http://www.nissanassist.com/web/Radiato ... hp?menu=22). 80K - 90K has a $2,500 co-pay; 90K-100K has a $3,500 co-pay.
I've been told that any coolant system modification (like the bypass) may void the extended warranty of both the transmission and radiator.
The radiator internal components failure seems to be linked to heat/cool cycles, which means the seal will fail even when it's bypassed. It'd be a shame to have a radiator fail at, say, 60,000 miles and miss out on a free replacement to an updated factory radiator.
DanJetta wrote:The radiator/transmission issue is warrantied with no customer co-pay for 8 years/80,000 miles (http://www.nissanassist.com/web/Radiato ... hp?menu=22). 80K - 90K has a $2,500 co-pay; 90K-100K has a $3,500 co-pay.
I've been told that any coolant system modification (like the bypass) may void the extended warranty of both the transmission and radiator.
The radiator internal components failure seems to be linked to heat/cool cycles, which means the seal will fail even when it's bypassed. It'd be a shame to have a radiator fail at, say, 60,000 miles and miss out on a free replacement to an updated factory radiator.