Ive had all I can stand of my warped rotors and front end pull while braking, so Im gonna be replacing the front rotors and pads in the next couple days.

Am I reading the service manual correctly that the sliding pin bolts are to be torqued to 44 ft lbs and the torque member bolts to 185 ft lbs? If you go to the brake service manual and look on page 24, the bolts have a small pic of a wrench with a number beside it, then two other numbers in parenthesis. Which number is the correct torque?

Any help is appreciated

Budrbean wrote:Ive had all I can stand of my warped rotors and front end pull while braking, so Im gonna be replacing the front rotors and pads in the next couple days.

Am I reading the service manual correctly that the sliding pin bolts are to be torqued to 44 ft lbs and the torque member bolts to 185 ft lbs? If you go to the brake service manual and look on page 24, the bolts have a small pic of a wrench with a number beside it, then two other numbers in parenthesis. Which number is the correct torque?

Any help is appreciated

info in service manual general information section (page GI-10)

I looked all over and couldnt find that earlier. Thanks!

that does NOT sound right....make sure your looking at the right #. the #'s in parenthesis also list NM and/or other units. Make sure you've got Ft/pounds and not NM or in/lb. There should be a little legend in the corner telling you which units are which.

On Page GI-10 on the manual we have here on the forum, the description of the wrench icon is as follows:

N-m (kg-m, ft-lb)

Reading the diagram in question (item 8 ) then would mean:

185 n-m (19 kg-m, 136 ft-lb)

Sure seems like a lot of torque... Its a big bolt though. I think it makes sense to use common sense here. The bolt in question uses at 19mm socket. It should have no issues withstanding 136 ft-lbs of torque. And you don't want this bolt backing out in service.

On item 1, I would be more careful. IIRC these require 10 or 12mm sockets. The diagram calls for 44 n-m (4.5 kg-m, 24 ft-lb).

The symbols for ft-lbs vs in-lbs are actually different, as noted on page GI-10. Seems to be a few errors on the diagrams though.

Hope that clarifies.

t

Looks like its 32 ft lbs for the sliding pin bolt and 136 ft lbs for the big honking ones. I used to do brakes and stuff and just tighten up, but after being properly educated I have become way more particular about my vehicle. Thanks for the help everyone

The highest torque I know of on Nissan's is the Titan at 175 i think. But you're supposed to replace the bolts everytime and they have some weird yellow lock-tite on them......pathfinder should be less...136 might be right.....def below 180s

Did the brakes and rotors today in a little more than an hour. The torque member bolts werent too bad....of course I had an impact wrench too. Plus Im sure the brakes have been changed before, so who knows what they were really torqued to.

I had a good amount of meat left on the pads......probably another 20-30,000 miles. I just couldnt deal with the wobbling and vibrating from the warped rotors. Not sure if it was from a bad rotor resurfacing or improper torque on the wheel nuts. Either way, $160 fixes it and no more vibrating and pulling to one side.

Budrbean wrote:Did the brakes and rotors today in a little more than an hour. The torque member bolts werent too bad....of course I had an impact wrench too. Plus Im sure the brakes have been changed before, so who knows what they were really torqued to.

I had a good amount of meat left on the pads......probably another 20-30,000 miles. I just couldnt deal with the wobbling and vibrating from the warped rotors. Not sure if it was from a bad rotor resurfacing or improper torque on the wheel nuts. Either way, $160 fixes it and no more vibrating and pulling to one side.

I only noticed my warped rotors after a pad change. I used OE pads. Since then I have replaced the rotors with the mid-range NAPA rotors, so far no issues. Stops good.

I was going to go the path of upgraded parts, but couldn't justify the expense.

But changing the rotors made my pathy feel like new again!

t

So what do yall do with your used pads and rotors? Something tells me I shouldnt just chunk em in the trash

Budrbean wrote:So what do yall do with your used pads and rotors? Something tells me I shouldnt just chunk em in the trash

I usually hang on to them for some reason. Then, years down the road when I clean out my garage and can't remember what vehicle they are for anymore, they go in the trash.

Same goes for old belts, warped rotors, oil filters, spark plugs and plug wires...



t

The first number is 185 N.m that is Newton times meter, this torque is the unit in Metric System (MKS for meter, kilogram, seconds) .

One can convert this number to Lb/ft (foot-pound) which converts to 136 lb/ft, which is the unit of torque in the English System (American)

So typically, depending on the unit system the engineer is using (English or Metric) the engineer will specify the value in

English (metric) This means we are working in English and the parenthesis value has been converted to metric.

So for a Japanese engineer (Japan follows metric system), he or she will specify the unit in metric first and put in parenthesis the English value. In this particular case the

185 (19, 136) is 185 N.m, and the values in parenthesis 19 lb/ft for initial pre torque followed to a final torque of 136 lb/ft.

Engineers calculate torque for bolts all the time, one needs to know the force desire (pre-load of the bolt) and the friction coefficient. The desire force will depend on the Yield Strength of the material. More info can be found here

http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm

Follow specified torque value gear heads!!! This elbow grease crap is not the way to go....careful replacing a bolt with just another bolt, because the replacement bolt may be of a different material.

For example if one replaces the steel alloy bolt with one made out of a weaker (lower Yield Strength) say Aluminum, for the same value of torque the aluminum bolt may be over preloaded or it may just shear (brake while torqueing).

The opposite is true if a bolt is made out of a stronger material (higher Yield Strength) such as Nickel Alloy (aerospace bolts) for the same torque value, one would not achieve the desired preload.

Both situations are dangerous....

thanks for the info The Engineer!
what year & model Pathfinder have you?