This is seemingly an old thread, but I'll add my two cents.
With appropriate jacking points front & rear (a plain bull bar & a Hayman Reece style tow bar with t tongue that sticks out past the rear of the car will work - but NEVER use those 'T' shaped jack
https://mechanicguides.com/best-farm-jacks/ points for this!) you can use the instability of a highly jacked Hi-Lift jack to turn the car in it's own length - bit of work, but it can save backing 5 plus km's thru tight & winding tracks! Jack the front of the car up as high as you can, & the push the jack off (when it's clear & safe to do so of course) towards the Driver's side of the vehicle - front will move a metre or so that way. Then go to the back & jack that up as high as you can before pushing it off the jack towards the passenger's side of the vehicle - back will move a metre or so that way. Do that a few times & you've got the car half way round; keep doing it & the car can be turned in it's own length!! It IS hard work, but I've done it more than once for people in sticky situations - as mentioned earlier, it can save a lot of difficult backing!
And the same instability can be used to get the wheels out of ruts, ie move the vehicle 1 metre or so in one direction - same deal only this time push the front & back in the same direction - clear of ruts is the result. Or you could lift the wheels & pack under them (for my 2 bob, the pushing sideways bit is easier!) That instability is part of the versatility of the Hi-Lift, use it when you can take advantage of it, but at all other times it is a liability, hence NEVER let anyone sit in or get near a vehicle lifted on a Hi-Lift Jack - they are unstable!! You shouldn't ever get under a car on a Hi-Lift alone, or try to change a tyre using a Hi-Lift alone, even if you use it to get the lift you need to do the job - chock it up or use another jack to stabilise the vehicle before you do anything else!