Idle drops at Red Light

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bradusf
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:50 pm
Location: FLORIDA

Idle drops at Red Light

Postby bradusf » Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:55 pm

We have a 2008 SE and it drives fine but when we stop at a red light most of the time the idle will bog way down, so low the whole car will vibrate. Then it just comes right back up like nothing happened. The check engine light never comes on.

Some one Please help, let me know if this is common or do I need to take it in?

Thanks for your response

Brad


cbacarisse
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Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2009 12:38 pm
Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana

Postby cbacarisse » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:44 pm

my 2010 SE has done the same thing since I bought it. I figured it's just a characteristic of the car. I've never owned another car that did it, but i've never owned a NISSAN either.

My wife doesn't seem to notice it either in the passenger seat. weird.

bradusf
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:50 pm
Location: FLORIDA

Postby bradusf » Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:15 am

We both feel.it. it drops low enough that.you can't ignore.it.

goblue90
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Location: Philly

Postby goblue90 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 4:11 am

My 2005 did that after I replaced my throttle chamber (do not ever let a shop convince you to let them do a BG air/fuel system flush), but i just bumped up the idle by 75 rpm using my bully dog gt.

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pawjr74
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Location: Gilbert, AZ

Postby pawjr74 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:16 am

You may want to go through these re-set procedures. Just an FYI...you will need to do these procedures if you clean your trottle body.

Link from nicoclub.com: http://forums.nicoclub.com/05-pathfinde ... 44342.html

This problem is perfectly normal after cleaning/replacing the throttle body. Over time as your throttle body collects carbon the air volume which passes through it changes very slightly. This slight change in air volume is registered by the ECU and the ECU will auto-correct itself over time so that the driver notices no difference in idling or throttle response.

When you cleaned the throttle body you increased the air volume which can pass through the throttle body and this confused the ECU into thinking that there is something wrong with the engine, causing the malfunction indicator lamp to illuminate.

There are some steps which you can take to remedy this problem, all of which are free and can be done in your driveway. The following tasks need to be performed in the following order:

1. Reset ECU

2. Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning

3. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

4. Idle Air Volume Learning

-----------------------------------------------------
----- RESET ECU -----
(The easy method below is much easier than this one, I suggest trying that one first)

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2-a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2-b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking).

5. Wait about 10 seconds.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

----- EASY METHOD TO RESET ECU -----

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

----- ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING -----

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.

3. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.

5. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

----- THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING -----

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch ON.

3. Turn ignition switch OFF wait at least 10 seconds.

Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

----- IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING -----
(The following steps are very time critical and any errors in timing may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to illuminate. If this occurs, you need to reset the ECU and complete all of the tasks again)

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.

3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.

5. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.

5-a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
5-b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.

8. Start engine and let it idle.

9. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. The vehicle should idle at 625 RPM's.
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goblue90
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Location: Philly

Postby goblue90 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:19 am

pawjr74 wrote:You may want to go through these re-set procedures. Just an FYI...you will need to do these procedures if you clean your trottle body.
I tried this SEVERAL times after getting the BG fuel/air induction service. The cleaner they used toasted my throttle chamber (apparently some Nissan throttle chambers have a special coating inside?). The symptoms after the service included a high idle and the subsequent CEL. The shop went through the relearning process that Pawjr posted many times (as did I), only to have the high/rough idle and CEL reappear. The next step was to do the relearn process while removing one or two of my fuel injectors to bring the idle down. Since the shop wasn't close by nor opened on the weekends, I chose not to have them do this. After trying the relearn process myself over a dozen times, I decided to buy a new throttle chamber. I installed it myself and performed the relearn which cured the rough and high idle I was experiencing and the CEL never returned. The only issue I experienced was a slightly lower idle while stopped, which vibrated my pathfinder like crazy. Here are a couple related links regarding problems experienced by Nissan owners after cleaning their throttle bodies/chambers:

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/i ... 507-61143/

http://forums.nicoclub.com/03q45-with-d ... 37960.html

Here's one regarding low/rough idles:

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/rough-idle-1180/

aadadams
Posts: 179
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:51 pm

Postby aadadams » Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:11 am

Sorry to awaken an old thread but...
I went in for my oil change Monday morning and the induction cleaning of carbon deposits was recommended to me by the dealership. Having read this thread, I declined as I didn't want the ill effects. Should I avoid this service, or is there a good alternative. Suggestions welcomed...

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nutbar78
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:22 pm
Location: Long Island, NY

Postby nutbar78 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 3:34 pm

Why do you need to clean the throttle body/chamber? What gets built up in there? Shouldn't only filtered air be flowing through there?


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