New to the Nissan PF family

The Gas and Diesel Engines - VQ40De, VK56DE, YD25DDTi, V9X, Transmission, Transfer Case, Oil, Differentials, Axles, Exhaust...

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jlperez3
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

New to the Nissan PF family

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 2:25 pm

I guess I should have done a little more research on PF before I bought mine. I just bought an 08 V6 Pathfinder with 80k miles and after reading all these post regarding transmission problems it's really making me think twice about the purchase. My thought process behind my purchase was due to the fact that Japanese cars are very reliable and will last a very long time. I haven’t noticed any issues yet, what should I be looking for or listening for and should I take it to a mechanic for diagnostic test, please help a fellow Nissan owner.


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dawgn86
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Location: Athens, GA.

Postby dawgn86 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 3:45 pm

check your transmission fluid / and coolant...look for the "strawberry" colored mixture....or erratic shifting at 40-45 mph

I have an 06 with 115k miles and going strong. I did the bypass on mine around 80k and changed the ATF fluid at 100k.

Hope it all works out

skinny2
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Postby skinny2 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:44 pm

I have an '08 with 90k miles. The transmission problems you've read about are (for the most part) all linked to the radiator issue. Fix the radiator...you'll not have to worry about the transmission. I've had no problems with my '08 but I took the ultra-conservative approach to the radiator and replaced it preemptively. From what I've seen from other posters, you get very little warning to the radiator failing...and when it does it can take out the tranny very quick. In addition, even if it doesn't destroy the tranny it's very difficult to get all the fluid changed and eliminate the contamination. It will undoubtedly shorten the life of the transmission.

First thing I would do is confirm you've not already had a radiator/transmission replaced. You can check with Nissan for repair records and also check the part number on the radiator. The "old" radiator should have a label with the part # "21460-EA215" on the top.

The cheap and easier fix is to just bypass the radiator. It's a little different for the '08+ models so make sure you're not following the directions for the older models if you decide to go that path. Lots of posts around here for by-passing the '05-'07 models but very few for '08+.

The radiator issue seems to be largely a time-based issue....there have just recently been 2008 models showing up with the failure...so you're probably ok for now. I went with an OEM radiator and had less than $500 in parts/fluids. Aftermarket radiators will probably run you half that. About 3-4 hours labor.

jlperez3
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:04 pm

Skinny, the part number is the old radiator "21460-EA215" I do not feel any thing at 40-45 mpg, I will check the fluid next. Will I have to take the drain plug off and check or is there a dip stick that I can check.

Thanks

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:25 pm

There is a dipstick on passenger side held down by a 10 mm bolt

jlperez3
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:37 pm

checked it. i can't tell the color it looks clear to me, not really sure.

jlperez3
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Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:39 pm

strawberry color bad or good. I know that most ATF are red in color.

jlperez3
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:42 pm

Does it matter where the vehicle has been located? This vehicle has been San Diego pretty much the whole time. I know that sometimes the climate can be a contributor to lots of the corrosion problems.

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:10 pm

Strawberry milkshake color not good. Hope for a reddish color

jlperez3
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Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:21 pm

I drained some from the oil pan and its brownish in color. May need to be changed out.
Last edited by jlperez3 on Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

jlperez3
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:22 pm

I also checked the radiator fluid for any signs of contamination and did not see any, looked normal to me (green). I think I will be changing the radiator here real soon.

jlperez3
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:23 pm

I have pics of it just trying to figure out how to post them.

jlperez3
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Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:27 pm


skinny2
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Postby skinny2 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:40 pm

I think you're fine for now but if you don't want to risk it either go for the by-pass or replace the radiator. Cheap insurance. The Nissan "warranty" on these is laughable once you're passed 80k miles. Making me front $2,500 or $3,500 depending on miles is not much of a warranty. Once you swap out the radiator and flush the coolant, I'd do a drain/fill on the transmission as well. Use the correct fluid and you should be good for awhile. Most drain/fill the tranny around 30k mile intervals. You probably should do the differentials and transaxle as well. My guess is the prior owner didn't do much maintenance.

jlperez3
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:53 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby jlperez3 » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:45 pm

thanks. whats the best ATF to use


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