Moderator: volvite
The complete front end kits dont really cost all that much money.labsy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:36 pmWow, gerat info, guyz! Thank you!
I will definitely first try those REAR adjustments:
+ 0'5 camber
0,9 mm toe out
But I also suspect something wrong in FRONT end.
These days it was raining quite a lot and it was DRASTICALLY noticed light steering wheel in long fast corners, like on highway, going some 60 mph. It felt like I suddenly drove on ice, total lack of feedback from wheels.
So does this mean the mystery is solved?labsy wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 4:43 pmGeeez, rear alignment was disaster! I did not notice, but even with naked eye it could be seen, that one of rear wheels has negative camber, while other stnds right up, and one wheel toes inwards significantly, while other does not.
It was TOE OUT for 10 degrees almost, and CAMBER out for 4 degrees. Both rear whees were not even touched by alignment crew, only fronts were done.
I took it to other alignment service, and OME installer felt so guilty when I told him, that he offered me full refund for alignment services and my time spent there. He says eh will never use this alignemnt service again.
Hmmm OME seems well respected in the community .. do you have any worn bushings or the like?labsy wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 2:05 pm@silverarrow27, yp, you are rite. Looking at whole service I am dissapointed. I understand this garage offloaded the alignment part of the work to 3rd party, but it is their responsibility to check for final results. Probably they offered refund exactly for the same reason.
But now after riding for a couple of days with alignment sorted out, I am still disapointed with ride quality.
Vehicle is nice to drive only on flat pavement, with no bumps and deviations in pavement. It is still quite worse as soon as I drive over some irregularity in pavement, like drive track channels (of heavy vehicles), or some patches, which are not 100% flat...especilly if those are in curve, vehicle boats like skyscraper, and keeps wiggling left/right qulte longer, than before.
Could it be that I was used to drive "heavy load springs" for all those years? And my previous springs were compressed for about 1 inch, now I have 2 inch lift, which totals out some 3 inches real lift in front and almost 4 inches rear. And maybe new OME is a bit softer, so maybe all in all it sums up into boat feeling on road bumps. Despite of OME statement, that ride quality will drastically improve in all conditions with their lift kit.
What ya think?
Very curious on everyone's experience with these springs. Has anyone measured their OME springs new?silverarrow27 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:17 amI have OME springs and shocks in mine and they ride well even without my rear sway bar. Some questions:
How's your bushings in your control arms?
How does your spring insulators look like?
Were those insulators installed correctly?
How's your ball joints?
How's your rear sway bar endlinks and sway bar bushings?
Im really curious on their measurements since they do not post them online.silverarrow27 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 14, 2022 4:54 pmSorry, I didn't. I thought I may have taken pictures of it side by side with the stock springs, but I couldn't find any photos of that either. My Ironman springs should be here tomorrow. I can measure those for you too. If only you had asked a few weeks ago, I did have one of my OME springs out.