I've never seen one jump if there were no oil problems in the cover and it was dry-cranked first. Watch your oil pressure on a scanner and keep dry-cranking for 15~20 seconds after it maxes out. Then install the fuse and let it fire.

I've never seen one jump if there were no oil problems in the cover and it was dry-cranked first. Watch your oil pressure on a scanner and keep dry-cranking for 15~20 seconds after it maxes out. Then install the fuse and let it fire.

Well to be honest, it was my mistake.
I had everything loosened, ready to remove the sprocket bolts.

For some reason I decided to speed up the process by using an electric ratchet after releasing them with a manual ratchet, on the bank 2 EX sprocket. I still had the primary chain attached....

Of course, the electric ratchet was in the "fasten direction", and when it put the slightest nudge on the sprocket, it pulled Bank 1 gear.

I swear it was a milli second of my life I would get back. But no. It was one of those - what they hell just happened moments. Then I calmed out. LOL

I will turn it by hand a few rotations and then start it up as you state (I have the fuel and injector fuses pulled earlier).

One thing I would recommend replacing while the front cover is off is the oil galley cover plate gasket on the front of the rear timing cover. Z1 Off-road sells a kit with improved gaskets and new bolts. The cover gaskets tend to blow-out on these engines and cause low oil pressure at idle and can cause P0011 and P0021 codes to trigger.

smj999smj wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 07, 2024 5:18 pm

One thing I would recommend replacing while the front cover is off is the oil galley cover plate gasket on the front of the rear timing cover. Z1 Off-road sells a kit with improved gaskets and new bolts. The cover gaskets tend to blow-out on these engines and cause low oil pressure at idle and can cause P0011 and P0021 codes to trigger.

Good thinnin', I forgot about those.

Welcome back old son, we missed you!

Thanks! I guess it's been awhile? I spend most of my time at thenewx.org since purchasing my Xterra. I was having trouble signing into my thenissanpath.com account for awhile, so I just didn't bother after awhile.

Wow! Return of a Legend!

It's all buttoned up now and purring along.

I did everything I could.

1. Checked and recheck spark plugs.
2.Check the ignition coils/boots - all excellent shape. Decided to replace the #1 coil anyway since it's the pain.
3. Took out the fuel injectors and cleaned them and inspected. replaced the O-ring sets.
4.Performed compression test on all cylinders since the intake was off. 150-165 psi on all (so happy to know this on an almost 20 year old baby)
5. I took the grounds off and cleaned them on both sides of the case**

**My Inspection found that the main battery ground cable was indeed fraying at the connection to the timing case - almost 80% detached. I went to my local yard and was able to get almost new condition one for $10. Beats the $140CAD I would have to dole out at Nissan. There appears to be an unusual current sensor ring on it - unsure the purpose of it.

6. The VVT solenoids - I removed them, and dissembled them to clean them. These were completely clean. Did not have to do it, but the gaskets were replaced.

7. new water pump (Ainsin)
8. three new chains
9. new main tensioner. Old one was in perfect shape. Replaced anyway.


Some extra things that I did at the wrecker,

1. Pulled off some spare bolts from another timing chain cover. The 12mmm, 14mm and 10mm type.
2. One thing I missed: one of the three A/C compressor bolts snapped when I removed it from the front timing case, and was fortunate to be able to heat it up and spin it out. I grabbed two from the wrecker.
3 handy - removing spare coolant hose band clamps from the wrecker. The oil cooler hose at the thermostat would not hold, and the band was worn. I had a spare and it worked to fix it.

I find the Nissan hardware superior to anything you would but on Amazon. Used old ones a stronger than new cheapo Amazonia types.

The Tool: The Timing Chain tool at the flex plate.
I'm not sure how anyone can remove the crank shaft pulley bolt without it. I read that some stuck a screwdriver in there - but man o man - this was a tug of war and my breaker bar was at full tilt on it.

What a job, but I performed a health check on everything I could while I was in there.


What else!

The one thing I gained from this process was intimacy within the engine bay

One thing I would recommend replacing while the front cover is off is the oil galley cover plate gasket on the front of the rear timing cover. Z1 Off-road sells a kit with improved gaskets and new bolts. The cover gaskets tend to blow-out on these engines and cause low oil pressure at idle and can cause P0011 and P0021 codes to trigger.

I replaced four seals. Two on the back plate, not sure if these were the ones you were speaking of?
I can not recall those part #'s. I had a look at the Z1 kit, just now. Oh well - too late!

Everything looks good.
Lot of great advice on here as always!

The part you mention on the ground cable is a voltage sensor. The ECM monitors the voltage to control the charging system through the alternator. It allows the alternator to charge as needed rather than constantly charge, which saves a little gas.