Removing rear sub (factory Bose system)

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airjrdn
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Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:19 am

Postby airjrdn » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:38 am

Maybe I'll just pay you to do it. :)

I called Bose last week and the speaker price is still $60. I'm debating on replacing both so I'm only in there once, but if the other speaker has lasted this long, hopefully it'll be fine for awhile.

I also talked to a guy at Bestbuy about doing the replacement if I buy the speaker myself. He estimated it at $70 labor, but that seemed more like a guess since he didn't look anything up about the vehicle or what it would take to remove the panel.

For now, I removed the cup holder and disconnected the speaker so I could at least listen to the stereo without the noise.

The Bose part # is 260158-004, but according to the woman I talked to, you can only order it by calling them (508) 766-9522. For the record, the part # she gave me was for my 2006 Pathfinder.

Thanks for the reply.


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:22 pm

There isn't any screws to the trunk panel finisher. There are several 10mm head, 6mmx1.0 bolts. One is behind a small cover that pops out toward the front of the panel that is fairly obvious. The rest are at the luggage anchors; lift up the metal "loop" and use a small, flat-bladed screwdriver to pop up the plastic finisher inside the well of the anchor and it will expose the bolt head. Other than that, with the exception of the 14mm bolt that anchors the seat belt, it's pretty much all clips that need to be disengaged from the metal body using a panel tool or similar tool.

airjrdn
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Postby airjrdn » Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:14 pm

How do you put the seatbelt one back? Do you use a wrench? It doesn't look like a socket will fit in there.

Also, what about the weather stripping around the back hatch and door? does that just pull off and go back on easily?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:08 pm

I used a ratchet with a deep socket for the seat belt bolt. The welt moulding pulls off; just grab it with your fingers and pull.

iMehrab
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Postby iMehrab » Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:05 pm

I also need to do this LOL

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NmexMAX
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Postby NmexMAX » Thu Apr 28, 2016 10:47 am

Same here....

I;ve resorted to putting the headphones on in the rear so it doesn't get to the to the actual speakers.

ColoradoDreamin
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2018 3:16 pm

Just the answer I needed

Postby ColoradoDreamin » Sun Sep 23, 2018 3:30 pm

The subwoofer in my 2010 LE blew and was making an awful racket. Almost tore the grill off but found this post fortunately.

It took me about thirty minutes to take it all apart. The bolts under the tie hooks took a slightly curved phillips bit which fortunately I had. The seat belt bolts were tight but the 9/16†socket did the trick.

I also had to pry off a tie down near the lift gate and remove the bolt underneath a cover just behind the second row seat

A little silicon sealant around the speaker and a wait for it to set was all it needed. We’ll see how long it lasts, but easy enuogh to redo.

It took about 10 minutes to put it all back together again.

So thanks for all the help here!

scott1119
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Location: Kentucky

Postby scott1119 » Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:06 am

Are there any aftermarket replacement speakers to put in there place?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:18 pm

scott1119 wrote:Are there any aftermarket replacement speakers to put in there place?
Nothing that will direct-fit. The Bose speakers have a square frame and are inset into the housing. Plus, they are also 1-ohm impedance. If you want to stick with the stock Bose system, it's best just to order a new subwoofer speaker, or speakers, from Bose.

r0llinlacs
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Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2024 10:18 am

Re: Removing rear sub (factory Bose system)

Postby r0llinlacs » Sun Sep 01, 2024 10:27 am

I just removed the factory subs and threw a couple 10s on the factory amp. Single 4-ohm parallel for 2-ohms final. Definitely getting less power than the factory subs but with all the extra cone area, and a little EQing from the music player (phone) and it's enough to rattle the tailgate, at least. Better frequency response but in all honesty not much louder unless the bass is boosted on the phone music player app.

Temporary anyways seeing as I just got the thing. Soon will install my JL 1000/1 and 500/1 for a triple sub setup.

Highs are decent enough, may not even worry about head unit replacement.

Nd4SpdSe
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2024 5:15 am

Re: Removing rear sub (factory Bose system)

Postby Nd4SpdSe » Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:56 am

I did a radio replacement on my 08 this year and just to get Android Auto and my music streaming is a great feeling but the factory Bose system woke up nicely. I find this very common that changing out the factory radio makes a big improvement in sound quality, but there`s a limit. There`s only so much a deck can do when working with speakers using paper cones driven by fridge magnets can do (referencing my Mazda2). Mind you my truck isn't my daily but I do take it on long trips and am not tempted to upgrade the speakers. The speakers are ran off the headunit and the factory amp removed. The subwoofer however isn't connected yet as I still need to get power over to the microamp that will drive it, but it's still impressive sounding despite the lack of it. Once connected I can tune the system better and filter out some bass from the speakers.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/6Fasiry.jpeg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/wgoeJsl.jpeg[/img]


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