G35TR wrote:How much tranny fluid should one expect to loose when performing this? Was it enough so you guys had to buy some more and top it off once completed?

If you clamp the hoses, you don't need to do anything. The only fluid you lose is whats in the rad itself, and since its being taken out of the circuit, you lose that capacity.

don't mean to bump an old thread, but wouldn't it be better to get to the source of the problem and replace the radiator ?

ByPath wrote:don't mean to bump an old thread, but wouldn't it be better to get to the source of the problem and replace the radiator ?

probably, but the work and effort required to do this bypass makes it more appealing the replacing the radiator

but you will still have the leaky radiator, which in time will eventually leak out all the coolant and eventually you will have to replace the radiator right ?

kev1n wrote:

ByPath wrote:don't mean to bump an old thread, but wouldn't it be better to get to the source of the problem and replace the radiator ?

probably, but the work and effort required to do this bypass makes it more appealing the replacing the radiator

ByPath wrote:but you will still have the leaky radiator, which in time will eventually leak out all the coolant and eventually you will have to replace the radiator right ?

kev1n wrote:

ByPath wrote:don't mean to bump an old thread, but wouldn't it be better to get to the source of the problem and replace the radiator ?

probably, but the work and effort required to do this bypass makes it more appealing the replacing the radiator

No one is suggesting that you leave a failed leaking radiator in your truck. If failure has already occured before you bypass (ie the tube cracks and allows coolant to contaminate your trans fluid), you are already screwed, and need to replace/rebuild your tranny and your radiator.

However, if you bypass the rad befoer it fails, that means you won't take out your tranny and cost you $5000 if your transcooler in your rad fails.

Anytime a rad has failed in a vehicle of mine, I replace the rad and move on with life.

So doing the bypass costs $0, and if/when the rad eventually fails, your looking at another $400.

Don't bypass, and you could be looking at $5400.

Thats the reasoning.

t

Think of it as an insurance policy, with a really cheap premium.

ByPath wrote:but you will still have the leaky radiator, which in time will eventually leak out all the coolant and eventually you will have to replace the radiator right ?

Wrong.

The radiator doesn't spring a leak externally. In fact, the coolant radiator doesn't leak at all... its the transmission cooler inside of the rad that springs a leak allowing coolant to get inside the transmission. If you cap the nipples when you do the bypass, nothing will leak externally and you'll actually never know if the problem develops. And even if it does develop, the worst thing that happens is coolant goes into the now-unused transmission cooler.

$5 fix beats the hell out of replacing an entire rad, and certainly out of replacing an entire transmission.

+1 for what kramer said.
bypass the cooler, blow out the cooler with no-residue rad cleaner, cap it off, drive on forever. If you don't blow out the cooler, you still run the chance of getting TF in your coolant should the thing fail, if you blow it out, you might get some air, no harm. You can even add and aux cooler (externally) like tow vehicles have - cheap!

Did the bypass, just coupled the two hoses together. Gonna install the following when it gets warmer out.

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler ... 750&sr=8-1

I do a descent amount of towing during the summer (2500 lb. boat on a tandem axle trailer) and want to be sure things aren't overloaded. Might be over-kill but a $45 cooler isn't going to break the bank.

just did the bypass. easier done than describing it. but I did not use any additional parts. no coupler, no hose clamp (reuse original), no zip tie.

you have 2 hoses -
hose A - from external transmission cooler to radiator (passenger side)
hose B - from radiator (driver side) to engine block.


take hose A off radiator (passenger side) and plug into engine block
take hose B off engine block and plug into radiator (passenger side), forming a loop within.

reuse all the old hose and clamp. length is perfect.

Before


After

One thing I noticed since I did this mod (and I'm a little worried about) is that the shifter can be extremely tough at times to shift between D, N, P, etc. But once I shift through them once it loosen's up. Any ideas on what's causing this?

I checked my tranny fluid level and it's fine. When I did the mod I verified there were no kinks (I'm going to check again after work today). I'm clueless as to what else could be causing this.

Thanks fellas

mcxstar01 wrote:One thing I noticed since I did this mod (and I'm a little worried about) is that the shifter can be extremely tough at times to shift between D, N, P, etc. But once I shift through them once it loosen's up. Any ideas on what's causing this?

I checked my tranny fluid level and it's fine. When I did the mod I verified there were no kinks (I'm going to check again after work today). I'm clueless as to what else could be causing this.

Thanks fellas

Nope this symptom is not apparent on my truck at all.

The by-pass shouldn't have any effect on this functionality, as the pressure for transfluid is generated at the torque converter.

I guess the only real way to rule it out is to reattach your cooler to the circuit and see if the symptom goes away.

Have you checked your fluid level after the bypass?

No adverse effects here either, it shifts fine. Your problem is unrelated to the mod.

kramer wrote:No adverse effects here either, it shifts fine. Your problem is unrelated to the mod.

I think it is safe to say I agree. Checked the fluid levels- fine, checked the hoses- fine.

We had a ton of snow fall on us yesterday, real heavy stuff. When I climbed under there today there was a ton of snow/ice packed up in and around the tranny. Most of it had turned to ice because the temperature has been fluctuating so much. I think that was the cause. Everything has been thawing out today and it shifts fine.

Hmm...ok so most of the rad leaks are in 05-early 06 models. Tech have you found any failures on 08 models??reason im askin is cos mines an 08SE, if nt then without giving out too much info(in case you get screwed at work) is it possible that nissan had quietly fixed the issue?? Bcos i live in the middle east and have no idea if i need to do this mod or nt till i first go and talk to the guys at nissan over here to see if there had been any failures so far. And by the looks of it there havent been any..so just wondering..