Torque Converter

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Somber Goat
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Location: Nashville, TN

Torque Converter

Postby Somber Goat » Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:59 pm

Ok, I've read as many threads as I possibly could about the rad/tranny cooler by pass thing everybody is talking about and still not 100% sure if this fits my issue so i'm starting this thread in hopes of stirring the pot a little.

Background: 2005 LE 4x4, 84k miles, light occasional towing and rare off roading except in snow and mud puddles. Other than that its a typical gas guzzling highway commuter/prius pisser off'er.

About 300 miles ago on my normal 25 mile highway commute my acceleration bogged down after having to slow down to let someone in from an on ramp. I was coasting along letting the speed drop to about 60 so I could let them in and lightly applied some gas to get back up to about 65.

As I lightly applied gas she just bogged down and eventually got through it as I kept applying gas. It felt like I was running over those small bumps along the side of the highway when you "accidentally" veer off the road.

So, first thought "CRAP!", second thought "What the hell was that?" Did some research on the web as I'm no mechanic and couldn't even tell you where half the stuff is most of you guys talk about. Well after about a week of this happening intermediately on the highway and now back roads doing about 40-45 I went to wally world looking for the ultimate vehicle elixir to dump in my tank or any other long tube with a cap on it.

No such luck, so after some thought and reading all these threads about rad/tranny issues I took it to a Transmission shop. Explained the above but with some added hand gestures. They checked my tranny fluid and it was fine but while I was there the guy pointed in their shop saying they were in the process of rebuilding an 05 pathfinder 2x right now due to the radiator issue.

So I set a date to bring the truck in but in the mean time he dumped a "bottle of black" in the transmission, said something about detergents breaking down over time and causing the Torque Converter to screw up. He said I would notice a difference right after I left.

Well that was yesterday and I've put another 60 miles on the truck and it hasn't shuddered or hesitated once.

I'm still going to hold my appointment and get the tranny, differntial and transfer case done for good measure as I know its never been done on the truck.

But my questions are:

Am I possibly going down the road that some on here have about the tranny going out and just happened to catch it early enough? I saw the tranny fluid, looked fine to the mechanic.

What was in that "bottle of black"? Closest thing I could find online was Lubegard Black, a friction modifier.

When I take it in what questions do I need to ask so I can investigate further as I'm not in any financial position to rebuild the transmission.

TIA!


scrooks
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Location: San Clemente

Postby scrooks » Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:06 am

That's a tough one for sure... I would move forward with a complete drain and refill of your transmission fluid since your at 84K miles. I would take out all 12 quarts by removing the tranny line going into your radiator and place into a large one gallon container. Milk jug works great and you can easily estimate how much has come out. Take out 1-2 quarts at a time by turning the key over for 5-10 seconds. Then add 1-2 quarts (through dipstick) until you see clean fluid coming out of the line. It's a better option IMO than "flushing system" or just doing a "poor mans" "dump and refill" that will only net 4-5 quarts. Since your past your drivetrain warranty you might consider using an "aftermarket" trans fluid as there are now a few on the market at most auto parts stores that claim to meet Matic J ,S requirements. I recently used Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc and did the method I prescribed above on my 2007 with 73K miles. So far the tranny is working great. Also you might as well do the other fluids such as "rear/front diff, transfer case" while you at it... :wink:

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Somber Goat
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Postby Somber Goat » Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:08 pm

@scrooks, I'm taking a guess here but are you saying to not do "the flush" due to the possible chance of loosening up some sort of debris that could cause me issue after wards?

scrooks
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Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:45 pm
Location: San Clemente

Postby scrooks » Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:23 pm

Yes, That was my feeling after much research on the "power flush vs drain method". I've done the "tranny cooler line drain" method I decribed many times over the years and have never had a single issue. The added pressure of the "flush" method has it's share of "naysayers". BTW you'll be surprised how fast the fluid comes out when you turn the key over so be ready to shut it off quickly. I've always tried to drain no more than 2 quarts at a time and then refill/repeat until clean fluid comes out... Hint: Mark the milk jug with a magic marker at half full which is 2 quarts :wink: To be honest I would say this is half as difficult as changing engine oil and filter but you may decide to just have your mechanic do it for you using this method also.... Let us know what you decide to do and how it's doing afterwards...

scrooks
Posts: 20
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:45 pm
Location: San Clemente

Postby scrooks » Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:32 pm

Somber Goat,
Forgot to ask about the color of the old fluid? You might want to post a pic of the old fluid in a clear container or put a few drops onto some white paper next to a drop of "new" and post that. I'm sure someone will have input on the condition of the fluid. Mine actually came out really dark @ 73K. Although I was having "no issues" I was quite concerned when I did the full change out. So far no issues however...

snakerupa
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Location: Virginia

Postby snakerupa » Fri Feb 25, 2011 10:12 am

Could be only one of two things. The recalled ECM relay(under recall), which controls the trans, spark and many other parts that will give you a 'misfire' condition. Or the dreaded trans cooler/radiator breakdown.
The trans is very picky about the condition of the fluid. It will start to act up before you will notice a change in the color of the fluid. I highly recommend dropping the $100.00 + for genuine Nissan matic S, not one of the so called compatibles. The trans is a very expensive part.
BTW, got my relay replaced under recall after misfire. Just recieved my extended warranty letter from Nissan for the radiator meltdown. And in typical Nissan fashion, it doesn't apply to my car because I am over the mileage. Yes, I did have the rad. failure. Caught it quick, did bypass and now looking for an aftermarket trans cooler. Good Luck.

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Somber Goat
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Postby Somber Goat » Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:55 pm

Just wanted to update on my issue. According to the shop I went too no signs of the rad leak, but ironically there were two 05 pathfinder's there, one getting the trans rebuilt and the other coming back to have the second(yes second) Nissan radiator replaced. If thats not a sign about their replacement parts I don't know what is.

Got the service done and was called the next day and told the trans fluid they put in might have water in it so had to bring it back to replace the fluid once again.

No more shudder at higher speeds and she shifts a lot smoother now, so i'm guessing my original fluid had just chemically broken down enough to were it was causing the shudder on the torque converter.

Needless to say I'm good now but I've got my calendar set to check my radiator cap for signs of the white stuff so if in fact I get the dreaded rad leak hopefully I can catch it before it becomes costly.

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4timenissanowner
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Postby 4timenissanowner » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:10 pm

I can't stress this enough - DO THE BYPASS!!! If you do the bypass then you won't have to worry about the rad/tranny problem. There are a lot of how to's on this forum, it is very easy to do.


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