I by-passed my in radiator tranny cooler

The Gas and Diesel Engines - VQ40De, VK56DE, YD25DDTi, V9X, Transmission, Transfer Case, Oil, Differentials, Axles, Exhaust...

Moderator: volvite

jarozi
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:12 am

Postby jarozi » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:18 am

So I JUST did the bypass w/ 116k on the odo...

Here's an AFTER pic of what I did, can anyone confirm that it looks correct? Just paranoid. Let me know if this pic is enough.. I took others. And thanks!

Image


User avatar
richardekirby
Posts: 233
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 7:40 pm
Location: Garland, TX

Postby richardekirby » Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:37 pm

jarozi wrote:So I JUST did the bypass w/ 116k on the odo...

Here's an AFTER pic of what I did, can anyone confirm that it looks correct? Just paranoid. Let me know if this pic is enough.. I took others. And thanks!

Image
Where do the lines coming out of the bottom of the radiator go? I can't tell from your pic. I plugged mine, but I have seen people run a hose from one nipple to the other. I was not sure if that was what you had done. This link was mentioned earlier in this post and it is the best example I have found for this procedure:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/ ... ass-42555/

jarozi
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:12 am

Postby jarozi » Sat Jan 29, 2011 4:07 pm

richardekirby wrote:
jarozi wrote:
Where do the lines coming out of the bottom of the radiator go? I can't tell from your pic. I plugged mine, but I have seen people run a hose from one nipple to the other. I was not sure if that was what you had done. This link was mentioned earlier in this post and it is the best example I have found for this procedure:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/ ... ass-42555/
The radiator line is now just the one that goes from one side of the rad to the other, its a closed loop now. The hose kind of corkscrews but it's just one hose.

allisojh
Posts: 90
Joined: Sun Oct 17, 2010 6:43 pm

Postby allisojh » Sat Jan 29, 2011 4:30 pm

need to rotate the pic counter clockwise. If people don't know exactly what they are looking at, it is confusing.

User avatar
richardekirby
Posts: 233
Joined: Sun May 09, 2010 7:40 pm
Location: Garland, TX

Postby richardekirby » Sun Jan 30, 2011 10:06 am

jarozi wrote:
richardekirby wrote:
jarozi wrote:
Where do the lines coming out of the bottom of the radiator go? I can't tell from your pic. I plugged mine, but I have seen people run a hose from one nipple to the other. I was not sure if that was what you had done. This link was mentioned earlier in this post and it is the best example I have found for this procedure:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/ ... ass-42555/
The radiator line is now just the one that goes from one side of the rad to the other, its a closed loop now. The hose kind of corkscrews but it's just one hose.
That sounds correct.

WheatBread
Posts: 148
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:08 am
Location: Little Rock, Ar

Postby WheatBread » Mon Jan 31, 2011 6:58 am

I concur

scrooks
Posts: 20
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:45 pm
Location: San Clemente

Postby scrooks » Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:55 pm

New to the forum. Just picked up a 2007 pathfinder with 73000 miles. Decided to just replace the radiator with a "Koyo" radiator. Headquartes for Koyo is 5 minutes from my house. They make a great quality unit. #A2807. Installation was not to bad. Approx 2 hours start to finish. Did a full tranny fluid flush with the new Valvoline Maxlive Dex/merc / Matic S rated on label. Got 13 quarts through before it came out bright red. Shifts like a dream so far. Thanks so much for all the great info that lead me down this "PATH" :wink:

Coltsfan
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:50 pm

Postby Coltsfan » Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:57 pm

Would it be safer to buy an aftermarket radiator as opposed to the bypass? I'm buying a 2005 Pathfinder with 86k that's currently having a new motor installed at no cost by the stealership.

scrooks
Posts: 20
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:45 pm
Location: San Clemente

Postby scrooks » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:20 pm

I opted to replace the radiator in favor of doing the bypass based on my feeling that the "radiator portion" does have some heating as well as cooling benefit. Most are simply doing the bypass. Both are good options and will likely solve future issues. If you want a guarantee that no future contamination will occur then go for the "bypass". If your concerned about keeping the heating and cooling benefits of the radiator portion then have them put an aftermarket version in. The original mfg. of the defective radiator was "calsonic" I would stay away from them if possible.

goblue90
Posts: 322
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 9:54 pm
Location: Philly

Tranny temperature...Yikes!

Postby goblue90 » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:28 am

Just snapped this picture sitting at a red light the other day. I had been in stop and go traffic for ~ 1 hour and I believe it was 80+ degrees outside:

Image

Oh, btw, I have the radiator bypass and am currently just using the stock external transmission oil cooler. I plan on replacing this cooler with a B&M Hi-Tek Cooler (comes with a 500 cfm fan and temperature switch) in the following month.

I know that tranny temps >175 will start to decrease the life of transmissions, but I'm wondering how accurate the readings are. Assuming that they are, when the heck does the tranny temp warning light on our dash light up?

User avatar
eieio
Sponsored Member
Posts: 1841
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:42 am
Location: Prescott, Az.

Re: Tranny temperature...Yikes!

Postby eieio » Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:44 am

goblue90 wrote:Just snapped this picture sitting at a red light the other day. I had been in stop and go traffic for ~ 1 hour and I believe it was 80+ degrees outside:

I know that tranny temps >175 will start to decrease the life of transmissions, but I'm wondering how accurate the readings are. Assuming that they are, when the heck does the tranny temp warning light on our dash light up?
thanks goblue90 :)
can you furnish us with readings under other circumstances, such as
normal freeway cruising with & without a trailer

goblue90
Posts: 322
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 9:54 pm
Location: Philly

Re: Tranny temperature...Yikes!

Postby goblue90 » Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:26 pm

eieio wrote:
goblue90 wrote:Just snapped this picture sitting at a red light the other day. I had been in stop and go traffic for ~ 1 hour and I believe it was 80+ degrees outside:

I know that tranny temps >175 will start to decrease the life of transmissions, but I'm wondering how accurate the readings are. Assuming that they are, when the heck does the tranny temp warning light on our dash light up?
thanks goblue90 :)
can you furnish us with readings under other circumstances, such as
normal freeway cruising with & without a trailer
Can do highway cruising readings, but not the trailer readings (don't have a trailer).

User avatar
08Datsun
Posts: 244
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:51 pm
Location: Santa Barbara, CA

Postby 08Datsun » Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:33 pm

233 is bit high. A Ford transmission engineer told me 225 is what to keep it under and that 175-195 is ideal. My '08 has been bypassed and has two coolers plus a 500cfm fan. It gets to 180-195 off-road and pulling a trailer up a hill, but we haven't seen any really hot weather(110+) to really test it out.

That new cooler should help. Coolers usually have two thicknesses, 3/4" or 1.5". Our factory one is of thinner style. If your going though the trouble of an upgrade, I get a thicker one(other dimensions being similar to stock).

I remember seeing the temperature sensors in the FSM. I believe there are two of them and they are on the bottom of the valve body sitting in the fluid in the pan. I'd assume your Bully Dog is pulling info from one of those.

I've scorched a couple of auto trannys, but have yet had one fail due to it. I just change out the fluid or have it flushed, and they just soldier on.

goblue90
Posts: 322
Joined: Wed May 02, 2007 9:54 pm
Location: Philly

Postby goblue90 » Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:50 pm

08Datsun wrote:233 is bit high. A Ford transmission engineer told me 225 is what to keep it under and that 175-195 is ideal. My '08 has been bypassed and has two coolers plus a 500cfm fan. It gets to 180-195 off-road and pulling a trailer up a hill, but we haven't seen any really hot weather(110+) to really test it out.

That new cooler should help. Coolers usually have two thicknesses, 3/4" or 1.5". Our factory one is of thinner style. If your going though the trouble of an upgrade, I get a thicker one(other dimensions being similar to stock).

I remember seeing the temperature sensors in the FSM. I believe there are two of them and they are on the bottom of the valve body sitting in the fluid in the pan. I'd assume your Bully Dog is pulling info from one of those.

I've scorched a couple of auto trannys, but have yet had one fail due to it. I just change out the fluid or have it flushed, and they just soldier on.
Thanks 08Datsun. Do you think I should just add the B&M cooler and fan in series with the existing external transmission oil cooler or just replace the OEM cooler?

User avatar
08Datsun
Posts: 244
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:51 pm
Location: Santa Barbara, CA

Postby 08Datsun » Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:06 pm

goblue90 wrote:Thanks 08Datsun. Do you think I should just add the B&M cooler and fan in series with the existing external transmission oil cooler or just replace the OEM cooler?
That really depends on how hard you're going use it. You already said you don't tow. Off-roading is the other thing that builds a lot of heat and in my experience, is even harder on a tranny.

I know that the 05-07s have the power steering cooler on the driver's side, right where you'd want to put the extra cooler. That's something you'd have to deal with to add the second cooler. The '08+ have the factory cooler on the driver's side, and the power steering cooler down below. I just added the extra cooler and fan to the passenger's side. I thought this might block too much airflow to the radiator, but so far it has not run any hotter.


Return to “R51 Engine, Driveline and Powertrain”