Just in Case You didnt want to Do the Bypass.....

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jrjohn77
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Postby jrjohn77 » Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:30 am

glockshooter wrote:I just love that she's doing 80mph, with a failing transmission, while video recording.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. :lol:


redwing
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Location: Alma, Michigan

Postby redwing » Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:33 am

I hate reading posts about this. I did the bypass but still hold my breath everytime I drive the Pathfinder.

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found
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Postby found » Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:48 am

I find it amazing that she kept driving it. . .is it not common sense to pull over when the trans doesnt shift?

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Fookn4x2
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Postby Fookn4x2 » Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:40 pm

Did my bypass about 30,000k ago and still drive like im late for work everywhere I go. Felt my heard drop for this woman when watching the video. Makes me glad I found this site. I drive really hard and tow stuff a lot so those of you with the bypass that are nervous, don't be. I'm sure most of you aren't as hard on your PF's as I am mine. BTW, I didn't add any additional coolers or anything like that. Just changed the tranny in and out lines. Temps are always normal operating levels.

pandarturo88
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Postby pandarturo88 » Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:43 pm

is it a shudder or a kick, I know it might sound weird but mine "kicks" at/around 40, it has something to di with the way the overdrive is set up there are some threads on it I believe.

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:42 pm

found wrote:I find it amazing that she kept driving it. . .is it not common sense to pull over when the trans doesnt shift?
to me, even more amazing is that she knew she had a tranny problem and still was doing 80 mph!!

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Fookn4x2
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Postby Fookn4x2 » Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:36 am

glockshooter wrote:I just picked up my '07 at the dealer service yesterday. Dropped it off for a shudder in the transmission, in overdrive, at 40mph.
The shudder you are speaking of is a programming issue. Back me up here guys but I believe there were prior posts about the 40 mph "bump." They can adjust it but it won't fully go away

BlazerScott
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Location: Birmingham, AL

shudder

Postby BlazerScott » Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:07 am

I have an 05 pathfinder with 117k. just started doing exactly what you are describing here....at 40-45mph if in overdrive it seems to shudder but if I give more gas to cause a downshift or hit the button to turn off overdrive it goes away immediately. It will also occur if I'm doing 70 in OD and happen to let off the gas and slightly accelerate again, but is shorter in shudder duration. I hear no grinding or clunking or anything like that.
I checked the Radiator and it is foamy and it has mixed fluids obviously.
I've not seen too many responses from people who've had this condition as I do, and simply bypassed then flushed/drain etc the tranny and the radiator cooling system. Am I too late? Or, is it worth trying to do the bypass and new fluid in the tranny? I need some help pretty quick on this....I work a field service related job and can't be without a vehicle...I don't want to buy a new car right now. Any and all opinions please!

mrguy19
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Postby mrguy19 » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:22 pm

*GULP*

Doesnt sound good. Do the bypass and flush the hell of the tranny and see if any improvment.

glockshooter
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Postby glockshooter » Thu Jan 12, 2012 4:57 pm

Fookn4x2 wrote:
glockshooter wrote:I just picked up my '07 at the dealer service yesterday. Dropped it off for a shudder in the transmission, in overdrive, at 40mph.
The shudder you are speaking of is a programming issue. Back me up here guys but I believe there were prior posts about the 40 mph "bump." They can adjust it but it won't fully go away
It's not one bump, in or out of overdrive. It's a constant shudder until I lose enough speed for it to kick out of overdrive. If I hit the gas, or hit the button to get out of OD, it clears right up.

arkangel
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Location: Manhattan, KS

Postby arkangel » Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:16 pm

Stop driving your Paathfinder until you drain the antifreeze out of the transmission! You will destroy your transmission as others already have. I may have just avoided failure by immediately doing the bypass and getting the nasty water/antifreeze OUT of the transmission by whatever means necessary. Here is my post in the Engine/Drivetrain section that explains the whole thing.

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=6278

PLEASE TAKE HEED and get this fixed right away. Otherwise you're going to be buying a new car or paying thousands to fix yours. Anyone else here feel free to back me up on this. Hope this helps!

Ark

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nutbar78
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Location: Long Island, NY

Postby nutbar78 » Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:50 pm

deermjd wrote:That was almost hard to watch. :cry: I love how the DTE light is flashing the whole time...
I noticed the DTE also and her service engine soon light. Not passing judgement, but maybe someone who doesn't take care of their vehicle anyways.

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hfrez
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Location: PSL, Florida

Postby hfrez » Fri Jan 13, 2012 7:39 am

Women! Saw a post once where a female brought her car to the dealer because the engine had stopped working. Turned out she drove the car 30,000 miles without changing the oil.

rannunziato
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Now hold on....trans/rad question

Postby rannunziato » Tue Jul 28, 2015 11:03 am

I was told the "fail" only occurs when the rad and trans fluids are old, spoil and become acidic. The acidic fluid eats away at the solder of the trans cooler located inside the main radiator and causes the fluid exchange. If you change out the fluids and keep them "fresh" the problem most likely won't occur. Please advise because I'm @ 97K, and just changed both fluids which were not compromised, yet?

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eieio
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Re: Now hold on....trans/rad question

Postby eieio » Tue Jul 28, 2015 12:48 pm

rannunziato wrote:I was told the "fail" only occurs when the rad and trans fluids are old, spoil and become acidic. The acidic fluid eats away at the solder of the trans cooler located inside the main radiator and causes the fluid exchange. If you change out the fluids and keep them "fresh" the problem most likely won't occur. Please advise because I'm @ 97K, and just changed both fluids which were not compromised, yet?
the problem occurs between the internal cooler tube and the radiator itself,
due to a defective sealing process during manufacture of the radiator
some fail, some don't
yours may, or may not, fail, regardless of how fresh you keep your fluids (even though fresh fluids are always a good idea)
but I certainly would not assume that you are in the clear by doing so


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