Cats are done. Fack MY LIFE.

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dared3vil00
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Cats are done. Fack MY LIFE.

Postby dared3vil00 » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:04 pm

So as some of you may know, i recently had to pay for a whole new transmission blah blah blah, I get in this morning turn the truck on and notice the SES or the FML light is on. Between smashing my head through the window and deciding which cliff to push it off, I managed to make it to the shop in 1 peice. The code is for bad cats. Thats about all i know. Is there somewhere i can get a cheap set (NOTE it's only one side that is bad i was told) And how much am i looking at? I had them delete the code, and if it comes back which it inevitably will, I will get them fixed, so thats why i'm looking for a guesstimate. Thanks guys. BTW, my truck has 140,000KM or roughly 5,000Km over warranty.


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RacerZX
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Postby RacerZX » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:49 am

Ouch man, ouch, I feel your pain.

In the US, or at least in California, emissions equipment like the CATs have an extended 80K Mile warranty. Any chance you've got the same up there in Canada?

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:13 am

at only 5k over warranty I'd ask for the phone number to the local nissan rep.

asgard
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Postby asgard » Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:37 pm

Nissan Canada doing you a favor - I think not. I had a rear shock blow at 49000kms and 3 weeks out of B to B and they said NO.

What is the story here, do you need both cats on each side or can you do away with one?

http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan/20 ... onverters/

hope this is of some help

dared3vil00
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Postby dared3vil00 » Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:17 pm

I think my next step is to contact nissan, Should i just call my local dealer?

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:07 pm

dared3vil00 wrote:I think my next step is to contact nissan, Should i just call my local dealer?
if you are going to contact Nissan, doing it through your local dealer may be an advantage
i'd recommend trying to have them contact Nissan on your behalf

dared3vil00
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Postby dared3vil00 » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:09 pm

Yeah :/ sad to say i doubt anything good will come about it... Nissan is horrible with customer service in my personal experience

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USCJustice
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Postby USCJustice » Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:45 pm

I had this exact same problem with my 05 Pathfinder (now the wifes). If you have access to a lift, it is not a bad job. It took me about 3 hours to swap them out (I'm not a professional mechanic). You can get both cats on ebay for not too much (sub $500US). When you pull down the upper cats (the ones that commonly crap out, be sure to clean out the secondary cats (further from the engine), as they tend to collect everything from the upper cats that shreded themselves.

Hope that helps. feel free to email me at [email protected] if you want any further information on it.

dared3vil00
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Postby dared3vil00 » Thu Jan 26, 2012 10:36 pm

Hmm... Thanks, I do have access to a lift, however I wouldn't trust myself to swap out a set of cats. Oil changes and tire rotations are about what i do. I probably could do it, but i just wouldn't feel comforatable

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Tech
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Postby Tech » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:21 pm

you should still have warranty on cats and ecm....FYI - at least one cat has to be removed to pull trans, if not the bell housing smacks it. Maybe have a look see.

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skywhr
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Postby skywhr » Fri Feb 03, 2012 7:00 pm

cat for 2005 $98.51 shipped from www.rockauto.com

skwerl
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Postby skwerl » Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:49 am

Article on how to diagnose bad cats:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 830AAzOPz0


The front cats are the two to be concerned with (there are 4 total) but the front two cats are between two O2 sensors. FYI, Advance Auto and Auto Zone are no help. Advance was going to sell me a rear cat and it wasn't labeled front or rear. When I asked them why that seemed to be the part # to the rear cat made by Walker they just told me they were sorry they had no more information.

Walker, Eastern Catalytic, and Davico are three reasonably priced brands I've been able to find (Magnaflow are expensive).

Here are links to front and rear cats from the Walker website and a few links to buy the cats. I would make damn sure my O2 sensors were all good, have my plugs replaced, and check for vacuum leaks before putting cats on. One way to check if a cat is functioning is to point an infrared thermometer on the front of the primary cat and on the rear of the primary cat and their should be about 100 degree difference in temp.

Front Driver
http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/catalo ... tus=ACTIVE

Front Passenger
http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/catalo ... tus=ACTIVE

Rear Driver
http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/catalo ... tus=ACTIVE

Rear Passenger
http://catalog.walkerexhaust.com/catalo ... tus=ACTIVE



These Davico are the cheapest I've found from a reputable dealer:

Davico Front, Driver Side Catalytic Converter
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 18218.html

Davico Front, Passenger Side Catalytic Converter
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 18219.html



Eastern Front, Driver Side Catalytic Converter
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 40710.html

Eastern Front, Passenger Side Catalytic Converter
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/N ... 40711.html





Here's a site that also sells Walker cats (cheapest on Walker rear cats):

Front Driver
http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/auto- ... =WAL-16468

Front Passenger
http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/auto- ... =WAL-16467

Rear Driver
http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/auto- ... =WAL-16400

Rear Passenger
http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/auto- ... =WAL-16399


Article on how to diagnose O2 sensor problems:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm
A good O2 sensor should produce an oscillating waveform at idle that makes voltage transitions from near minimum (0.1 v) to near maximum (0.9v). Making the fuel mixture artificially rich by feeding propane into the intake manifold should cause the sensor to respond almost immediately (within 100 milliseconds) and go to maximum (0.9v) output. Creating a lean mixture by opening a vacuum line should cause the sensor output to drop to its minimum (0.1v) value. If the sensor does not flip-flop back and forth quickly enough, it may indicate a need for replacement.

My issue is my primary cats both show the 100 degree difference between front and rear leading me to believe one or more of my O2 sensors are bad but there are specific codes for bad O2 sensors which I'm not seeing leading me to believe I have a bad cat. It's a very tricky thing to diagnose if you don't know what you're doing. I wouldn't even know where to begin to hook up an oscilloscope like recommended in the article above.

I bought an OBD II code reader/diagnosis tool to record readings from my O2 sensors and this is what I saw. I was parked and gave throttle up to about 3k~4k RPM and back down to idle repeatedly for about 30 seconds and this is the readings of my O2 sensors.

Image

Image

Image

Image


If I'm reading this correctly, Sensor 1 bank 1 (drivers front O2) and Sensor 2 bank 1 (drivers rear O2) have bad readings.
To add to my confusion is I believe if the ECM senses that the motor is running too rich in the case of a bad cat, the ECM will lean out the air/fuel ratio which would also affect the readings of the O2 sensors. That seems to me to make it even harder to tell whether an O2 sensor or cat is bad when the O2 sensors could be self-adjusting for a bad cat.

Furthermore, my vehicle gets the same MPG it has always gotten and doesn't run poorly or idle roughly.

dared3vil00
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Location: Canada

Postby dared3vil00 » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:19 pm

Wow, that was ALOT of info. Thanks.jut an
Update; SES light hasn't come back on (knock on wood) so I don't know how it would only throw the code once and then never again, but I am sure not complaining. :D

skwerl
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Location: Birmingham, AL

Postby skwerl » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:28 pm

dared3vil00 wrote:Wow, that was ALOT of info. Thanks.jut an
Update; SES light hasn't come back on (knock on wood) so I don't know how it would only throw the code once and then never again, but I am sure not complaining. :D
How long has it been since the SES light has been off? I've reset mine several times and they also reset themselves so the light goes off only to come back on 5 to 7 days later.

dared3vil00
Posts: 144
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:23 pm
Location: Canada

Postby dared3vil00 » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:30 pm

The SES light went on the day I made this thread, so January 23rd. Thankfully hasn't come back.


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