Our trucks seem to work great as-built until they experience the well known cross contamination problem.

This and other stories really make me think the solution is a better built replacement radiator, but the question is what should we buy?

From what I have read (but not yet researched), Nissan is still selling the same old part number for replacement rads. Some guys on thenewx.org have experienced overheating issues with replacement rads and/or aux coolers.

The $500+ Griffin aluminum radiator looks promising, but apparently still isn't fitting quite right.

It seems like Nissan got the engineering specs pretty good, but failed on execution.

jspitz wrote:This and other stories really make me think the solution is a better built replacement radiator, but the question is what should we buy?

that's the MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION!
i've never been a fan of aftermarket replacement parts, so (at least for now) both of my Pathfinders are happily by-passed

eieio wrote:has the truck ever had a coolant/trans contamination problem, or was it by-passed before anything happened?
where was your ATF oil leaking from (specifically: hose, connection, aftermarket cooler)?
how much oil did you lose from the leak (how much did it take to adjust back to the proper level)?
also curious as to what aftermarket cooler was installed, and where.....

Contamination? None that I could see. The tran fluid was clear and blood red.
Leak? From tube/cooler connection.
How much? Unknown. I put at least a quart of tran fluid in.
Cooler? This one --> http://www.etrailer.com/Transmission-Co ... 13504.html

"at least a quart" can be a lot of fluid
my concern would be that transmission damage may have occured as a result of the fluid loss
a more accurate amount of fluid loss would be helpful, and as i (fortunately) don't have any experience with low fluid level symptoms or damage, maybe someone else can chime in on that
still curious, where did you mount the Derale cooler?

eieio wrote:still curious, where did you mount the Derale cooler?

Directly behind the existing cooler.

UPDATE: So, I drove home tonight from work(only 3 miles) as easily as I could to reduce shifts. I leave the PF running in the driveway and I pull the transmission dip stick and it still shows full. I leave the dipstick out and let the PF sit, running, for about 10 minutes. I return, re-insert the dip stick, pull it back out and it's dry as a bone. I check again and again to make sure I'm not crazy. I check all tubes and and around the PF for leaks and everything is clean.

I head straight to Pep Boys and I buy their recommended 6 quarts of Castrol's Transmax transmission fluid. I drain the transmission so I know it's empty before adding fluid back in. I pour in the six quarts let the PF sit for a few more minutes and then take it for a spin. The downshifting problem now seems to be gone.

Now, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I did the by-pass this afternoon. I think it took longer to pull the skid plate than it did to switch things around! I had my transmission flushed about a month ago and the oil was not mixed then, and the oil in there still looks to be in good shape so I think I dodged any potential problems.

Thanks for all the great info. It made this modification super easy and maybe saved my tranny.

jrjohn77 wrote:

eieio wrote:still curious, where did you mount the Derale cooler?

Directly behind the existing cooler.

UPDATE: So, I drove home tonight from work(only 3 miles) as easily as I could to reduce shifts. I leave the PF running in the driveway and I pull the transmission dip stick and it still shows full. I leave the dipstick out and let the PF sit, running, for about 10 minutes. I return, re-insert the dip stick, pull it back out and it's dry as a bone. I check again and again to make sure I'm not crazy. I check all tubes and and around the PF for leaks and everything is clean.

I head straight to Pep Boys and I buy their recommended 6 quarts of Castrol's Transmax transmission fluid. I drain the transmission so I know it's empty before adding fluid back in. I pour in the six quarts let the PF sit for a few more minutes and then take it for a spin. The downshifting problem now seems to be gone.

Now, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I'd get that trans fluid out quick, And I mean quick. Like this weekend. This anit my first PF. Go to the stealership and buy the 10 bucks a quart trans fluid. If the mixing doesnt get you, the Non-Nissan trans fluid will.

I'd get that trans fluid out quick, And I mean quick. Like this weekend. This anit my first PF. Go to the stealership and buy the 10 bucks a quart trans fluid. If the mixing doesnt get you, the Non-Nissan trans fluid will.[/quote]

I've been using Valvoline Max-life ATF in my 06 Pathy LE and 08 Pathy SE for over a year when servicing the trans fluid and haven't had any issues with it. Valvoline recommends it for use in Nissan Type "D," "J" and "S" applications. I can get it from Advance Auto Parts for $20/gallon, about half the price of the genuine Nissan Type "S." I've heard of others using the Castrol Multi-import ATF, which is also Type "J" and "S" recommended (by Castrol) without issues, as well.

Hmmmm, I had a 95 and changed the trans fluid around 30,000 each time. At 117,000 I bought Castrol and within two weeks the transmission died. I bought a salvaged one. I had to buy an aftermarket filter because the dealer said it doesn't have one (WTH???) That tells me that have had trans problems for a while. I used nissan fluid. I changed the fluid about 20,000 miles later and used Castrol and within 6 months it was starting to die, so I traded it in for an 07. I like Castrol engine oil, but my nissan transmission's dont seem to like it. Of course it be coincidental.

bakerbaker wrote:

jrjohn77 wrote:I head straight to Pep Boys and I buy their recommended 6 quarts of Castrol's Transmax transmission fluid.

I'd get that trans fluid out quick, And I mean quick. Like this weekend. This anit my first PF. Go to the stealership and buy the 10 bucks a quart trans fluid. If the mixing doesnt get you, the Non-Nissan trans fluid will.

The Castrol Transmax fluid meets the specs of the Nissan fluid and it even states it is specifically designed for Nissan, Toyota and Honda.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiong ... Id=7028224
I flushed the transmission after about 300 miles to ensure it was clean as possible after all of the above problems. I have put another 3,000 miles, mostly stop and go, on our Pathfinder since and am experiencing no problems.

Guys, I am not making a Markerting Pitch for Nissan. I am just speaking from past experience's

I'm sorry, but I don't believe Nissan made transmissions to only work with Nissan brand fluids.

FLiPMaRC wrote:I'm sorry, but I don't believe Nissan made transmissions to only work with Nissan brand fluids.

You dont have to believe anything, You get to select which theory you like best. I called the local stealership and they said any fluid that is compatible would not void the warranty. So use whatever fluid you like. I use Nissan trans fluid. Lets leave it at that.

bakerbaker wrote:

FLiPMaRC wrote:I'm sorry, but I don't believe Nissan made transmissions to only work with Nissan brand fluids.

You dont have to believe anything, You get to select which theory you like best. I called the local stealership and they said any fluid that is compatible would not void the warranty. So use whatever fluid you like. I use Nissan trans fluid. Lets leave it at that.

There is a label under the hood of our pathfinders that says to use only genuine Nissan fluid. Having heard many stories about Nissans, Hondas, and certain GMs that need specific factory fill trans fluid, I am inclined to beleive them!

Why screw around to save $20-30 every 60k miles??

t

bellwilliam wrote:just did the bypass. easier done than describing it. but I did not use any additional parts. no coupler, no hose clamp (reuse original), no zip tie.

you have 2 hoses -
hose A - from external transmission cooler to radiator (passenger side)
hose B - from radiator (driver side) to engine block.


take hose A off radiator (passenger side) and plug into engine block
take hose B off engine block and plug into radiator (passenger side), forming a loop within.

reuse all the old hose and clamp. length is perfect.

Before


After

My wife has an 05 SE that I know has the ability to be a timebomb so since I did the oil today I found you guys and did the bypass today. I did the rerout also, no connectors, etc.

Spent more time on the valance and skid plate but I feel better now since its done. Its got 131K on it I feel somewhat fortunate.

Thanks again for all of the great info and input on individual scenarios.