New to the forum (and pathfinders)..
My uncle gave me his 99 with 125k miles... mechanically it's in great condition but the body and interior are crap. He smoked in it non-stop since he bought it new. The exterior is rusted quite a bit and he received an insurance settlement for hail damage. So, the plan is to get a good body/interior unit with a crap engine/tranny for a couple of $$..(Which was easy to find a 1998 ). Now I have the 2 side-by-side and am in the process of pulling the crap drivetrain out of the car that will be the useable one for my son.
Anyone know if the engine and tranny can come out as a unit or will they need to be split? For the disposable one, I plan to cut the upper radiator support away so the angle is not an issue.
Pulling engine + tranny
Moderator: volvite
I would think it'd be easier to remove them seperately than as one unit. If it's an auto trans, you can remove the engine without touching the front axle (if 4X4); the engine will lift straight up. If it's a manaual trans, the front axle will need to be lowered. If it's a 2wd model, the removing engine/trans assy. would be a lot more "do-able," but if we are talking about a 4X4, you'd have to tend with the trans as well as the transfer case; that's a lot of awkward weight and length to be trying to slide out of the engine compartment in one shot. You would need a pretty serious engine hoist and get the Pathfinder jacked up a bit.
Well... the bottom line of it all is: The tranny must be separated from the engine first. Trust me. You cannot cut corners, it just won't work. (I had the front radiator cross member cut away and the vehicle's rear way up in the air to get the best angle.....still had to separate the engine/tranny. Yes, the starter must be removed to get the tranny off. NOTE! it is very easy to break the flywheel sensor wire. It is at the top of the tranny, hard as hell to get to. it has a slide connector that "locks". You will need to remove at least 1 of the headers/catalytic converter assemblies to get enough room to come out. I removed the passenger side, it was easiest. But it will still be tight. You will need to move the wire loom support near the battery. Of course everything on the front of the motor so you just have pulleys. Radiator, alternator, AC compressor need to come off also. Power steering hose way down below. This is an incomplete list...I could go on for pages..but it becomes evident what needs to go. The oil pan clearance over the axle is the biggest pain. You can get another couple of valuable inches if you take the intake off. Otherwise, it digs into the insulation on the firewall.
I dropped the transmission crossmember in order to get to the top transmission bolts. Have a jack underneath. Do you think doing that will give it enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the axel or will that make it more of a pain?
So far i disconnected the harness (to the battery and all), all the a/c and power steering lines. The radiator, shroud, and hoses are removed. I dropped the power steering pump. I removed the transmission coolant lines that run underneath the engine. Dropped the crossmember and removed a few transmission bolts on the bottom. Also disconnected the downpipes. I also believe i need to disconnect both of the o2 sensors just below the downpipes
I really don't want to remove the intake manifold. Is it impossible to pull the motor with it on?
So far i disconnected the harness (to the battery and all), all the a/c and power steering lines. The radiator, shroud, and hoses are removed. I dropped the power steering pump. I removed the transmission coolant lines that run underneath the engine. Dropped the crossmember and removed a few transmission bolts on the bottom. Also disconnected the downpipes. I also believe i need to disconnect both of the o2 sensors just below the downpipes
I really don't want to remove the intake manifold. Is it impossible to pull the motor with it on?
I take it you removed the flywheel-torque convertor bolts also? The pan clearance is a vertical issue vs a tilt angle issue. In other words, it needs to come straight up as much as possible then a slight tilt. Coming upward was the issue with the cat/header...it would then hit. By down pipe are you referring to the cat convertor or the intermediate pipe with the o2 sensor..if so yes, those pipes need to come off and o2 sensors disconnected.
No, it's not impossible to remove the engine with the intake still on it....just a lot harder. That extra vertical room is the key to the oil pan clearing the axle easily.
Don't forget, you need to pull the tranny away from the motor until it disconnects. Keep the angle as straight as possible -that is a couple of inches until the shaft disconnects. DONT LET THE TORQUE CONVERTER SLIDE OUT OF THE TRANSMISSION !!
No, it's not impossible to remove the engine with the intake still on it....just a lot harder. That extra vertical room is the key to the oil pan clearing the axle easily.
Don't forget, you need to pull the tranny away from the motor until it disconnects. Keep the angle as straight as possible -that is a couple of inches until the shaft disconnects. DONT LET THE TORQUE CONVERTER SLIDE OUT OF THE TRANSMISSION !!
The only thing I would be good for is sitting in a chair, drinking your beer and shaking my head while saying...Dang! that looks like it really sucks! Not to mention, I really don't think it's summertime temperatures up there right now like when I did mine 
The overall issue is the fact that we are trying to pull them apart in a different fashion than they were assembled. The bodies came down over the engine/tranny assemblies on the line. The front drivetrain and suspension were then brought up and attached. Not that it's any comfort when you are cussing and freezing...
The overall issue is the fact that we are trying to pull them apart in a different fashion than they were assembled. The bodies came down over the engine/tranny assemblies on the line. The front drivetrain and suspension were then brought up and attached. Not that it's any comfort when you are cussing and freezing...
I ran into my first problem. While trying to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold i did get all but one stud nut off but the one i'm having trouble with is the one underneath the manifold. The only thing i was able to get on it with was a box end wrench but i have no leverage because it's hitting the manifold. Do you recommend a ratcheting wrench or do you have any other recommendations? Once i get that final nut off i will be able to drop the manifold and the cat.
Long gone are the days when you could rebuild a car with a screw driver and a pair of pliers. These days with motors shoe-horned into tight engine compartments with power steering, AC compressors and, a myriad of hoses and harnesses you really need a well stocked tool chest. I remember the nut that you're talking about. It was the last one that I removed and, as I recall, it was done entirely by feel. I'm pretty sure I used a ratchet but, I don't remember whether it was a deep well socket and how long the extension was. I know I made many trips to the hardware store and I have a well stocked shop now and, lots of wd-40 stains on the floor.
Ahhhh yes "THAT" nut...I remember it well in all its 14mmness. It is because of that nut and the one that tightens the steering pump belt that I went out and bought me a set of articulated, ratchet wrenches...After the fact of course 
Anyway, the only way I could get the nut off was to come up from the bottom. With the starter and alternator out of the way I could get my arm up there and get a box-end wrench on it, albeit with short strokes. I may have had to use my stubby wrench on it.
Anyway, the only way I could get the nut off was to come up from the bottom. With the starter and alternator out of the way I could get my arm up there and get a box-end wrench on it, albeit with short strokes. I may have had to use my stubby wrench on it.
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