97 Pathfinder 5MT Noise

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14thumper
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97 Pathfinder 5MT Noise

Postby 14thumper » Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:35 pm

Hi,

Just test drove a '97 with 95k miles. Truck seemed fine but significant groaning noise from manual transmission especially noticed at low speed. Shifted fine. Ok?

Also, when looking at autos all have 140k+ miles. Is this ok? How tough is the power train? Is the 3.5 or 3.3 auto combo the longest lasting?


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:50 pm

Groaning "could" be a bad bearing...assuming the gear oil is full and the noise is definitely internal of the manual transmission. It's tough to diagnose a noise on a forum level when it can't be heard.
The VG33E and VQ35DE are both good motors capable of well over 100,000...even 200,000...or more, if they are properly maintained and not abused. The VG33E has about 70 less horsepower than the VQ35DE, but it is also not as technically advanced as the VQ and does not have as much to "go wrong." VG is a timing belt motor whereas the VQ is a timing chain motor.

14thumper
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Postby 14thumper » Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:17 am

Thanks smj999smj...

How hard is the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/thermostat/cam seal swap for the average Joe with satisfactory wrench skills? I'm not a skilled mechanic by any means but do most my own maintenance.

Also, I don't really need the extra power but it would be nice. My main concern is reliability in a high mileage rig. With that said is the 3.3 a better choice? There is appeal to the power though. :P

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Tue Jan 07, 2014 1:26 pm

The "better choice" is debatable. The 3.3L is adequate power for most, but the power of the 3.5L takes it to another level. Gas mileage is likely to be slightly better for the 3.5L, as well, depending on how you drive.

The timing belt job isn't bad to do. The early R50's do have an A/C line that runs directly in front of the timing cover, so the system needs to be evacuated to remove the line and later the system will need to be recharged. The biggest obstacle for most in the job is loosening and tightening the crank bolt. If you have access to a 1/2" drive air ratchet that is short enough to fit, it's not a big deal. If you have nothing but hand tools, then it is a bit more difficult.


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