Moderator: volvite
Thanks for the quick response, going to attempt this between rain showers today.disallow wrote:I'd do a load test on your fuses to see where the power is going.
Mulitmeter measuring load in mA between the positive batter cable and the post to see what the pull on the battery is. Then start pulling the fuses one at a time and observe when the pull drops to near 0. That will be your culprit.
Brand new when I bought pathy in Feb, and after I start the car and it runs for a bit it's in the middle of the "bar of margin" on the dummy gauge in the dash, typically in the top right corner of the battery symbol when running.eieio wrote:what is the history of your battery, how old?
not all batteries that seem to charge & load test OK are good
also, what is your charging system voltage output
I wish I did, maybe advanced will let me swap one real quick? Doubt it .... But In the last hour of sitting ( 2pm -3pm ) with the motor off since 1:45 ish pm the voltage went from 12.79 to 12.69. I'm not sure if this typical or if it will level out at a certain point? Or if it will keep diving.... The last thing I need is it taking a crap when running errands or leaving work...eieio wrote:charging rate is good
do you have a different battery that you might be able to swap in?
i'm suspecting the battery
Does this include pulling relays as well? I had the multimeter in mA and had the prongs weged into the battery terminals when i pulled the fuses one by one...nothing changed than again I could have been wrong with what I was doing ? Idk .. I'm going to try the 12v dummy light at the ground and start pulling fuses that are under the hood.smj999smj wrote:You should really find out what the parasitic draw is, which would require an ampmeter. Typically, 50 milliamps or less is considered okay. I have an OTC parasitic draw tester which works great. The "poor man's" draw tester is using a 12 volt test light placed in-line between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. Make sure everything is turned off and if you have to have the driver's door open, disable the door switch. Let the vehicle sit for a minute or two and see if the test light is illuminated. Remove fusible links and/or fuses until the test light goes out to identify the circuit. Once you identify the circuit, you will need a wiring diagram to find out what's on that circuit. For a large draw, I would start at removing the fusible link for the alternator; sometimes they will short internally and that will kill a battery in no time!
not a bit surprised, it sounded battery/battery related from the "get-go"08PathPounder wrote: I noticed how loose my ground terminal was on the post even when tightened to the point of no more thread I could rotate it on the post with no problem but could not slide it off. So I took a set of vice grips and lightly but surely clamped down and pinched the opening a "little" tighter. It now gets tight as intended and works like it's supposed to. After doing this, my killing suddenly stopped. Hasn't died in two days. Could this seriously be the issue?