My 2001 LE 3.5 is at 162K, and needs maintenance per the shop - engine light is on and recommended fix is $1200 = replace mass air flow sensor, rubber intake boot, left upper cam sensor.
Been a good vehicle, have replaced O2 sensors prior, replaced front struts, multiple exhaust system replacements, but no other major work.
Probably looking at $2.5K in repairs for the above, incl new tires, and some exhaust system work.
Thinking I would like a reliable 4x4 with better mileage (Subaru Outback?) for future cross-country road trips (vs. 14 mpg on Pathy, etc.)
Any thoughts on repair/keep vs. sell? 2001 Pathy has been pretty solid so far. But, getting body wheel-wheel rust, powers seat driver side not working, leather getting ragged out, etc. What is next to break?
(I am second owner - 25K-162K)
2001 LE 3.5 @ 162K - Fix or Sell?
Moderator: volvite
The mass air sensor, air duct and cam sensor aren't hard to replace. You can cut that price down quite a bit by doing it yourself and your choice of parts. Rockauto.com sells a Hitachi (original equipment supplier to Nissan) mass air flow sensor for about $250, or about half the price Nissan wants; you can get aftermarket options like Delphi or Dorman for less than $100. The intake duct and cam sensor can be had for $210+shipping from Nissan online dealers like CourtesyParts.com or NissanPartsDeal.com. That right there is only half of the $1200 they quoted you.
Only you can determine if it's time to trade. The Subaru Outback is a top choice by Consumer Reports and gets very good gas mileage for a all wheel drive vehicle of its size. If your driving is primarily paved streets and highways, it's a great choice, although not so great for an off-road vehicle.
Only you can determine if it's time to trade. The Subaru Outback is a top choice by Consumer Reports and gets very good gas mileage for a all wheel drive vehicle of its size. If your driving is primarily paved streets and highways, it's a great choice, although not so great for an off-road vehicle.
Out of curiosity, are you actually experiencing any performance degradation on the truck? I mean, a failed MAF and cam sensor usually produce a truck that doesn't start, or runs very poorly. I would've expected some mention about that. And if your shop specifically told you "left upper cam sensor"...there is no "upper" sensor, just left and right.
The codes from your ECU won't always automatically suggest a particular failed part, especially a sensor. They usually indicate a failure is detected at the sensor. It could be the sensor, but it could also be something else.
If your shop didn't provide you any codes, take it to any auto parts store and they'll pull codes for free. You can then use the Factory Service Manual (Google "Pathfinder FSM NICO") to diagnose/troubleshoot them. When facing a $1200 repair bill, it's a no-brainer to spend 30 minutes and $0 doing some homework.
If you're getting any MAF issues and you know you've got a torn intake boot, you must fix that first. Any leaks on the intake side can screw with the MAF. My truck won't even start if the intake is disconnected past the MAF. There are two ducts, they run $40 each from CourtesyParts.com...code "nis10" should cover S&H. Otherwise, you could probably find this easily at a local pick-n-pull for a few bucks.
The other items seem pretty trivial to me, if you've got the aptitude and DIY spirit. You can find replacement leather seat covers, and replacing them would be the perfect excuse to pulling the seat to check the motor, switch, and connections...all of which can be tested with a multimeter. If rust is starting to spread, there are some easy steps to patch up and slow its progress (POR-15).
If it's still road-worthy, those expenses just seem like the costs of maintaining a decade-plus year-old vehicle.
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As mentioned, only you can justify keeping or selling. Don't confuse an AWD system with a 4WD...Subaru produces a fine vehicle (had 08 WRX), but it's apples to oranges. It's a great mileage improvement, no doubt, very well suited for road trips (drove mine cross-country, twice, in one year), but it can only do a small fraction of what a Pathfinder can do off-road.
The codes from your ECU won't always automatically suggest a particular failed part, especially a sensor. They usually indicate a failure is detected at the sensor. It could be the sensor, but it could also be something else.
If your shop didn't provide you any codes, take it to any auto parts store and they'll pull codes for free. You can then use the Factory Service Manual (Google "Pathfinder FSM NICO") to diagnose/troubleshoot them. When facing a $1200 repair bill, it's a no-brainer to spend 30 minutes and $0 doing some homework.
If you're getting any MAF issues and you know you've got a torn intake boot, you must fix that first. Any leaks on the intake side can screw with the MAF. My truck won't even start if the intake is disconnected past the MAF. There are two ducts, they run $40 each from CourtesyParts.com...code "nis10" should cover S&H. Otherwise, you could probably find this easily at a local pick-n-pull for a few bucks.
The other items seem pretty trivial to me, if you've got the aptitude and DIY spirit. You can find replacement leather seat covers, and replacing them would be the perfect excuse to pulling the seat to check the motor, switch, and connections...all of which can be tested with a multimeter. If rust is starting to spread, there are some easy steps to patch up and slow its progress (POR-15).
If it's still road-worthy, those expenses just seem like the costs of maintaining a decade-plus year-old vehicle.
...
As mentioned, only you can justify keeping or selling. Don't confuse an AWD system with a 4WD...Subaru produces a fine vehicle (had 08 WRX), but it's apples to oranges. It's a great mileage improvement, no doubt, very well suited for road trips (drove mine cross-country, twice, in one year), but it can only do a small fraction of what a Pathfinder can do off-road.
Ok, good (or not good) that there are noticeable signs.
I'd still start with repairing that intake tube and resetting the codes. The truck also has several procedures for resetting intake and fuel parameters, so I suggest looking through the FSM trying those procedures, then letting any new codes surface.
Good luck!
I'd still start with repairing that intake tube and resetting the codes. The truck also has several procedures for resetting intake and fuel parameters, so I suggest looking through the FSM trying those procedures, then letting any new codes surface.
Good luck!
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