Rear Blower Location

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Db615
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Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:54 am

Does anyone know how to access the rear blower motor? Rear air isn’t blowing, checked the fuses for it, so am wanting to remove and replace it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance


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smj999smj
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby smj999smj » Mon Jun 08, 2020 2:16 pm

You have to remove the entire rear interior finisher on the passenger side to access the rear HVAC unit. I know you can remove the blower amp without removing the entire HVAC unit, but I don't remember if you can get the blower fan assembly out or not, but I would hope so! If you locate my "sticky" on subwoofer R&R, it shows how to remove the interior panel on the driver's side; the passenger side isn't that much different.

Db615
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Mon Jun 08, 2020 7:11 pm

smj999smj wrote:
Mon Jun 08, 2020 2:16 pm
You have to remove the entire rear interior finisher on the passenger side to access the rear HVAC unit. I know you can remove the blower amp without removing the entire HVAC unit, but I don't remember if you can get the blower fan assembly out or not, but I would hope so! If you locate my "sticky" on subwoofer R&R, it shows how to remove the interior panel on the driver's side; the passenger side isn't that much different.

Thanks so much for your response and help! I actually just removed the driver side rear panels to wire a backup cam a few weeks ago. I just had no idea where the rear blower and components were actually located. I found out during all this that rear air was optional and not standard, so there’s not a TON of info on the rear part that I could find. But yeah, I checked all the fuses for it and nothing happens when I try to turn the rear on, so I’m assuming something is messed up with it. I’m also having the infamous rear AC line problem where they leak and corrode so I also don’t have cold air up front right now either. Instead of having to do that body off the frame BS to replace the factory lines, I’m planning on just using a splice kit and hope that works

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smj999smj
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby smj999smj » Mon Jun 08, 2020 10:13 pm

Even Nissan doesn't replace the lines any more unless there's a reason to do so. The dealers got force-shipped the repair kit to repair the lines, so that's usually what is done. A whole lot less expensive and less work!

Db615
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Tue Jun 09, 2020 11:25 pm

smj999smj wrote:
Mon Jun 08, 2020 10:13 pm
Even Nissan doesn't replace the lines any more unless there's a reason to do so. The dealers got force-shipped the repair kit to repair the lines, so that's usually what is done. A whole lot less expensive and less work!

Oh really?? I didn’t know that. Luckily this is the first time I’ve had the issue with the rear lines so I’ve never had to go down this rabbit hole until now. Are we able to just purchase the repair kit for the rear lines now? That would be awesome if so! Would save me from having to piece my own kit together! Thanks for this info.

- Also I wanted to ask you - I noticed you have airlift 1000s. The roads here in TN sometimes makes it ride like a wagon. I noticed on their website they mainly mention using them for towing, but is that something that improves ride quality for you? I’m curious about the setup and definitely want to add them if so!

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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby smj999smj » Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:04 am

You can buy line repair kits, but they are a service tool and usually expensive. Dorman Products has a kit; I forget the exact price, but it was in the $300's, I think? Of course, if it's an A/C line, equipment will be needed to evacuate and recharge the refrigerant.

The rear springs from the factory on the R51 are a bit weak and besides sagging when towing or loaded heavy, they also have a tendency to cause the back end to hit the bump stops over large bumps and potholes. An early upgrade many employed was to replace the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600's and to install Airlift 1000's to improve the ride and prevent the "bottoming out," as well as to fix the back end sag when towing. Since they sell for around $80 and are easy to install, it was a no-brainer. I keep mine around 13 PSI. Later, Moog came out with a stock replacement rear coil spring that was a significant improvement over the factory units. They are a little harder to install and require an alignment afterwards, but they are less maintenance and correct the bottoming out issue. If you tow a heavy trailer, you might want to replace the coils with Moogs AND install the air bags...along with using a load-leveling hitch.

Db615
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:02 pm

smj999smj wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:04 am
You can buy line repair kits, but they are a service tool and usually expensive. Dorman Products has a kit; I forget the exact price, but it was in the $300's, I think? Of course, if it's an A/C line, equipment will be needed to evacuate and recharge the refrigerant.

The rear springs from the factory on the R51 are a bit weak and besides sagging when towing or loaded heavy, they also have a tendency to cause the back end to hit the bump stops over large bumps and potholes. An early upgrade many employed was to replace the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600's and to install Airlift 1000's to improve the ride and prevent the "bottoming out," as well as to fix the back end sag when towing. Since they sell for around $80 and are easy to install, it was a no-brainer. I keep mine around 13 PSI. Later, Moog came out with a stock replacement rear coil spring that was a significant improvement over the factory units. They are a little harder to install and require an alignment afterwards, but they are less maintenance and correct the bottoming out issue. If you tow a heavy trailer, you might want to replace the coils with Moogs AND install the air bags...along with using a load-leveling hitch.

Thanks a million for all of this info. Appreciate you. I’m glad I’m not the only one that feels that way about the rear suspension. It doesn’t bounce or anything like they’re shot, it’s just like hard recoil and bottoming out like you described. Very accurate description of what I was trying to say. I definitely want to get the airlifts now and they’re budget friendly too which is a plus like you said.

You mentioned the Moog coils - I saw where some people have swapped Armada springs in. And then I’ve noticed all the aftermarket ones they make as well. Any input on the Armada springs vs Moog vs other aftermarket springs. I definitely am wanting to get the Airlifts and I plan to lift it a couple inches at some point but not anytime soon because I just spent $3200 on a full transmission rebuild a couple weeks ago - that hurt..but it drives/shifts awesome now and has a 2 year warranty on the trans so that helps me sleep at night lol.

Db615
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:04 pm

Db615 wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:02 pm
smj999smj wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:04 am
You can buy line repair kits, but they are a service tool and usually expensive. Dorman Products has a kit; I forget the exact price, but it was in the $300's, I think? Of course, if it's an A/C line, equipment will be needed to evacuate and recharge the refrigerant.

The rear springs from the factory on the R51 are a bit weak and besides sagging when towing or loaded heavy, they also have a tendency to cause the back end to hit the bump stops over large bumps and potholes. An early upgrade many employed was to replace the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600's and to install Airlift 1000's to improve the ride and prevent the "bottoming out," as well as to fix the back end sag when towing. Since they sell for around $80 and are easy to install, it was a no-brainer. I keep mine around 13 PSI. Later, Moog came out with a stock replacement rear coil spring that was a significant improvement over the factory units. They are a little harder to install and require an alignment afterwards, but they are less maintenance and correct the bottoming out issue. If you tow a heavy trailer, you might want to replace the coils with Moogs AND install the air bags...along with using a load-leveling hitch.
—— Also, I plan on just doing a dye test to make sure there aren’t any other surprises like the condenser or compressor, other lines etc leaking also. I know right now there’s absolutely no Freon in it and is blowing hot air at all times and the gauge is reading no Freon as well.

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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby smj999smj » Thu Jun 11, 2020 5:05 pm

Db615 wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:02 pm
smj999smj wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:04 am
You can buy line repair kits, but they are a service tool and usually expensive. Dorman Products has a kit; I forget the exact price, but it was in the $300's, I think? Of course, if it's an A/C line, equipment will be needed to evacuate and recharge the refrigerant.

The rear springs from the factory on the R51 are a bit weak and besides sagging when towing or loaded heavy, they also have a tendency to cause the back end to hit the bump stops over large bumps and potholes. An early upgrade many employed was to replace the rear shocks with Bilstein 4600's and to install Airlift 1000's to improve the ride and prevent the "bottoming out," as well as to fix the back end sag when towing. Since they sell for around $80 and are easy to install, it was a no-brainer. I keep mine around 13 PSI. Later, Moog came out with a stock replacement rear coil spring that was a significant improvement over the factory units. They are a little harder to install and require an alignment afterwards, but they are less maintenance and correct the bottoming out issue. If you tow a heavy trailer, you might want to replace the coils with Moogs AND install the air bags...along with using a load-leveling hitch.

Thanks a million for all of this info. Appreciate you. I’m glad I’m not the only one that feels that way about the rear suspension. It doesn’t bounce or anything like they’re shot, it’s just like hard recoil and bottoming out like you described. Very accurate description of what I was trying to say. I definitely want to get the airlifts now and they’re budget friendly too which is a plus like you said.

You mentioned the Moog coils - I saw where some people have swapped Armada springs in. And then I’ve noticed all the aftermarket ones they make as well. Any input on the Armada springs vs Moog vs other aftermarket springs. I definitely am wanting to get the Airlifts and I plan to lift it a couple inches at some point but not anytime soon because I just spent $3200 on a full transmission rebuild a couple weeks ago - that hurt..but it drives/shifts awesome now and has a 2 year warranty on the trans so that helps me sleep at night lol.
Armada spring swaps were being done before the Moog springs became available. There are a few members that have done the Armada springs that can tell you more about it than I, by my understanding is that they do give the rear of the vehicle a bit of a lift. I've heard the Moog replacements tend to give about a half-inch lift, initially, but settle to the stock height within a few weeks. I haven't really seen much traffic concerning the other aftermarket springs, but, personally, I would stick with Moog as they have been tried and work plus their strong reputation. Their cost is right in line with other aftermarket brands, as well. If you do lift in the future, keep in mind the taller the suspension lift in the rear, the harder it is to get the camber spec within alignment specs. Two-inches is right in the "gray area" range when it comes to getting it within specs, in that some can be aligned and some fall just outside the specs. There are eccentric control arm bushings available, however, to correct the problem.

Db615
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Re: Rear Blower Location

Postby Db615 » Sat Jun 13, 2020 3:11 pm

Thanks for the more in-depth information on this. Appreciate you. Sounds like the Moog setup with the Airlift 1000s and rear shock replacement would be best for me. I would want to keep it conservative regarding lifting it, as I don’t off-road it and it is a daily driver for me, so I think that would be best fitting especially for ride quality.

That will be next on my list after I fix the A/C issue. New trans and new tires set me back this past month and hopefully the A/C won’t set me back too much further lol.


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