100k miles service interval

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brickbox
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100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Sun Sep 20, 2020 8:11 am

I’m planning on getting some maintenance done and out of the way before winter kicks in. Last week’s cold was a reminder of what’s coming my way brrrrr.

I had a few questions. The Pathy is at 101k miles:
1. For a 2011, should I stick with the laser iridium NGK 93759 or will the ruthenium NGK 96355 also provide a similar 100k service interval?
2. Is the Denso 3450 an acceptable alternative for 100k miles change interval?
3. I was planning on servicing the PCV valve too. Is there just 1 for the VQ40? Can I just take it out and clean it up or is the recommendation to change it?
4. Brake bleeding - can someone please tell me what size hose they used on the bleeder valve? (Dont have access to a garage currently, so I would like to get all the parts ready beforehand)
5. Serpentine belt - RA has 2217mm and 2232mm belts. What’s the difference between the two? I was planning on getting the Bando 2217mm if it works on my 2011.

Thanks!


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smj999smj
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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Sun Sep 20, 2020 10:15 pm

The Denso plug will probably work fine, but Nissan has used NGK spark plugs in 99% of their engines and I've used NGK plugs in, literally, everything I own, including generators, lawn mowers and chainsaws. They are a terrific plug and NGK is the world's largest manufacturer of spark plugs. There are several plugs in the NGK line-up that will run just fine in the VQ40DE and the VK56DE engines. Any of the NGK "Laser" spark plugs were made for OE applications. The Laser Iridium 93759 is the actual plug that came from the factory in your engine and while the service interval recommendation if 105,000 miles, you can actually get 130,000 miles out of them. A lesser cost option that will give you 105,000 miles is the Laser Platinum 6240, which was the OE plug in 2005-2006. The Iridium IX is even less costly, but should be changed out around 60-70,000 miles. The Ruthenium HX 96355 came out about three years ago and I am currently running them in my 06 Pathfinder (I run the 6240's in my 08 Pathy). NGK claims they have better ignitability and are more durable than their other lines of plugs and you should have no problem getting 105,000 miles on them. They are also a few dollars per plug cheaper than the Laser Iridiums. As far as performance, I haven't noticed any difference between any of them. Power "feels" the same and gas mileage is the same, so it's really your choice as to which one to use.

PCV valves in Nissans usually don't fail unless the vehicle is badly under-maintained. That said, if I was going to go through the work to remove the PCV valve on a VQ40DE, I'm going to replace it with a new one. They are plastic and threaded and I would assume like most plastic engine parts, there comes a time where the heat makes them become brittle. It's not an expensive part.

I can't help you with the hose size to put on the bleeders. I have a vacuum brake bleeder kit so whatever size I have in the kit that fits is what I use. Make sure you follow the proper bleed order: right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front. Any DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid will work fine, as will DOT 5.1, which is what I use. Do NOT use DOT 5!

The early years of the R51 with the V6 had problems with belt squeak or squeal. Nissan put out a TSB with instructions to check the P/S pump pulley alignment and adjust if needed and recommended replacing the tensioner with an updated belt, which was 1/2" shorter than the original belt. The slight decrease in length causes more tension to be put on it by the tensioner once it's installed. As a side note, tensioner springs do lose tension over time and should usually be replaced around 70-80,000 miles. That's why serpentine belt component kits are popular. If it were me, I would go to Rockauto and get Gates accessory belt drive kit # 90K38378B for $75. It has the shorter belt, a new tensioner, a new idler pulley and a lifetime warranty. If the belt wears out or a pulley starts squeaking, just order a new kit from Rockauto under warranty and send the old parts back (it'll cost you about $7 for their discounted shipping). Do it once and do it right.. Plus, Gates makes the OE parts on the North American R51's. If you do insist on replacing just the belt, then go with the Bando.

Coolant replacement is also due at 105,000 miles; your 2011 probably has Nissan blue, which is actually Pentosin Pentafrost A3 coolant which is sold at Rockauto and some parts stores (my local Autozone carries it). Valvoline Zerex blue coolant for Asian vehicles is a good alternative.

And don't forget about checking the wiper blades and cabin filters!

brickbox
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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Sun Oct 04, 2020 8:51 pm

Thanks Smj!!

The brake bleeder hoses are 7/32”. Except due to the corrosion on the bleeders, I sprayed them with PB blaster and put a wrench on there and the things dissolved. On 3 of the calipers the rust just dissolved with a very tiny amount of torque on the wrench. So I’ve given up on that endeavor for this year.

I did go ahead and change my fan clutch which has been roaring since I got the Pathy last year.
Except this happened!! How bad do you think it is?
Image

I just did the 3 spark plugs on the driver’s side and the rear most one of the passenger bank.
I wanted to do it the right way, but the top left (as you face it) bolt on the throttle body had significant corrosion (see a trend here with this vehicle :|) and guess what, put torque on the Allen wrench and the thing rounded!!!

Any thoughts on how I can get to the front and middle spark plugs on the passenger bank? Also any thoughts on how to get the stripped Allen head bolt off the TB for future work?

I am going with the Ruthenium plugs based on your previous post.

PS: Good to have the forum back!!

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Mon Oct 05, 2020 4:23 am

I just use a spark plug socket with a locking extension to get the front and middle plugs. As far as the stripped allen bolt, I use an impact driver with a hex socket to remove it. If it's beyond that, you can have someone weld a hex bolt to the allen bolt with a mig welder to take the bolt out and then replace the bolt with a new one. As far as the radiator, it's the tubes you have to worry about. As long as it doesn't leak coolant, it'll be okay. I usually put a piece of cardboard in place to protect the core when working on the fan.

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Mon Oct 05, 2020 5:41 pm

Universal joint and short sockets did the trick.
Didn’t see any coolant leaks from the radiator after running the truck for 25 mins while burping the cooling system.

However, the replacement aftermarket fan clutch is worse than the one I took off!!!! It roars really really loudly constantly.

The old one would make a loud roaring for the first 30 seconds and then die away and wild occasionally get loud when engaged. I’m assuming that’s not normal and that the fan should make no noise at all when started?

Also my VDC Off light came on. Is there a way to reset it?

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Tue Oct 06, 2020 12:03 pm

So the radiator definitely has a very slow leak. Are the TYC radiators from RA any good? It’s got lifetime warranty.

Or the radiator from 1A auto which has lifetime warranty as well?

If not, I’ve heard CSF radiators are good and they are on RA with 2 years warranty.

Are any of the above acceptable? These are all single row radiators though, is that what the factory radiator also is?

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Wed Oct 07, 2020 4:52 pm

There are some posts somewhere on this site regarding using genuine Nissan fan clutches due to problems with the aftermarket parts, such as described by yours. This has been an issue with Nissan fan clutches for many years, going back into the 80s. Some parts you just are better off going with genuine Nissan...or a part from a company that makes the OE parts for Nissan (Hitachi, KYB, NGK/NTK, etc.). Those parts include fan clutches, thermostats, fuel pumps, ignition components and engine sensors.

I haven't heard of many issues with any of the aftermarket radiators, especially in regards to the internal trans cooler. There have apparently been some problems with the all-aluminum, CSF radiators for the R51, according to Offroad Gorilla, which no longer offers them, nor does Stillen. In regards to the factory-style, plastic-tanked radiators, Spectra Premium is a popular choice; it's a Chinese-made radiator (as almost all are these days), but the company is Canadian and offers a two-year warranty. Early-on, I used a no-name, Ebay-sourced, Chinese-made radiator in my 2006 and after 6-years, I have not had any problems; the only difference I found was that the drain petcock was a different thread than the factory radiator, but the new radiator came with a petcock, so it wasn't an issue. I installed a Koyorad radiator in my 2008 without issues. I've used TYC parts for several things in the past (not sure if I ever used their radiators) and they always seemed of good quality. So, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Consider price, warranty and store reputation when choosing one; a warranty is worthless if you can't locate the company to return it if it should fail. Rockauto has been very good at warranty returns in my experience, although you do pay shipping to return the part.

The factory radiator is a single, 2-1/4" core. You'll find that size as well as a double, 2-1/8" core available on the aftermarket. My Koyorad is a single core and my cheapo Ebay rad is a double core. They perform similarly, so I wouldn't get too wrapped-up into which is better.

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:14 am

Perfect, thank you for the very detailed response! I ended up buying the TYC radiator off RA since it was lifetime warranty and only 8 bucks more than the CSF plastic/aluminum radiator which has 2 years warranty. Also going to replace the radiator hoses while I’m in there.

Is there a reason why my VDC off light came on after this job? I did take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir without disconnecting the battery but I would think that won’t cause it. Could it be that I just need to drive it around for the system to reset?

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Fri Oct 09, 2020 3:25 am

Taking the top of the master cylinder wouldn't cause that. If you disconnected the battery, it could cause the steering wheel position sensor memory to be erased and need to be reset. If you can't see anything wrong, then you'll need to get the codes read.

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Sun Oct 11, 2020 5:28 am

Turns out I just had to drive like 20feet and the VDC light turned off. So all good there.
I had bought the fan clutch from AM Auto and they sent me a replacement unit that gets here tomorrow.

I’ll post back on what the results are. Is there any way at all to check the clutch prior to putting it on the vehicle?
I know that if it free spins, it’s not good. Any way to rule out that this replacement unit will also be too tight/constantly engaged making my Pathy a hovercraft?

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:33 am

Not really....good luck!

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Tue Oct 13, 2020 5:34 am

Yikes! It’s what I figured.
I switched the radiator with the TYC one. The radiator itself is comparable to the Calsonic one that came out of the car.
But the little drain plug from TYC was absolutely garbage. It started leaking as soon as the system pressured and when I turned the screw a smidge (less than 1/8th of a turn....because yes, I really didn’t want to change radiators again), it snapped!!
Also, the hole for the e-fan doesn’t quite line up right with the hole in the radiator - but it fits.

Luckily some needle nose pliers helped me get the crappy drain plug out and I swapped it with the one from the Calsonic! No leaks and excellent heat.

But......even the replacement fan clutch from AM Auto is noisy. It’s a little better, but noisy nonetheless. Before swapping them in, the first part from Am auto was really tight and hard to spin. This replacement unit was a little better, but it’s definitely noisy.

For those looking at this thread in the future, save yourself the hassle and buy the OEM. Yes, 1A auto and AM auto provide great warranties at very low price, but skip them on the fan clutch.

Which brings me to the main question - is there any way to swap the fan clutch without having to drain the anti freeze?

Also, a good functioning fan clutch should have 0 sounds on cold start up, correct?

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Wed Oct 14, 2020 2:37 am

Typically on a cold start, you'll hear the fan "roar" for about 10-20 seconds and then it'll quite down. I don't know of a way to replace the fan clutch without draining the coolant. If it's about not wasting the coolant, drain it into a clean container and then pour it through a paint strainer placed inside a funnel back into the coolant container (or another suitable, clean container).

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby brickbox » Thu Oct 15, 2020 9:29 am

Good to know - thanks SMJ for all your advise.
My biggest worry with draining the coolant is that the drain plug is from the calsonic radiator and the radiator itself is a TYC. When put this plug in, it felt a little tighter than what it “felt” on the Calsonic radiator.

I drove it for 40 miles yesterday. I noticed that the sound stays on for about 45 seconds-minute at a low roar and then quietens out. During the drive itself, no sounds at all but then again it was like 55F outside.
And when I came back home and let it idle for like 5 mins, the fan engaged on a very low roar. I took it back for a quick drive and within like 30 seconds, the noise subsided.

I’m going to figure this is fine for now and leave it as is. I’ll find out truly how much the fan annoys me next summer when the outside temp goes into the high 90s.

The good thing is that the smell of anti freeze that I mentioned in one of my firsts posts here after purchase of the car has gone away!

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Re: 100k miles service interval

Postby smj999smj » Sat Oct 17, 2020 4:20 am

Sounds like it's working properly. I usually hear mine at first start-up or when sitting in a drive-thru line for a long time.


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