I looked around...maybe it's me...but couldn't find anything on this topic...Anyhoo, I can't get the t case to go back over the torsion bar brrace to pull it...Never saw a set-up like this before...I pulled the bolts on the brace and dropped it about a 1/2", but the pre-load on the bars and/or angle they're at doesn't allow for much room there. I.m debating backing off the torsion bars and dropping the brace...but it kinda looks like a can of worms...any suggestions? Or is there a manual in here somewhere?
Thanks

thanks tro AUTOZONE...THE CROSS MEMBER'S GOTTA GO...Here's the pages & pix:


All 4wd models use a TX10A transfer case.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jackstands.

3. Drain the fluid from the transmission and transfer cases.

4. Remove the front and rear driveshafts. Be sure to plug the oil seal openings after removal.



Be very careful not to damage the transfer case spline, yoke or oil seal while removing the driveshafts.

5. Remove the torsion bar spring.





Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the transfer control lever from the transfer case


Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 2: Apply sealant here transfer case installation


Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 3: Transfer case-to-transmission bolt locations

6. Remove the second crossmember.

7. Disconnect the transfer control lever at the outer shift lever ball joint and position it out of the way.

8. Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case and remove the case-to-transmission mounting bolts. Separate the transfer case from the transmission and slowly lower it out and away from the transmission.



To install:

9. Carefully position the transfer case so that it mates with the transmission and tighten the mounting bolts to 23-30 ft. lbs. (31-41 Nm). On models with manual transmissions, be sure to coat the case mating surface with sealant.

10. Connect the transfer control lever to the outer shift lever and tighten the nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm).

11. Install the second crossmember and tighten the bolts to 43-58 ft. lbs. (59-78 Nm). Install the torsion bar spring.

12. Unplug the oil seals and install the two driveshafts.

13. Refill the transmission and transfer case with fluid, then lower the vehicle and connect the battery cable. Road test the truck and check for any leaks or improper operation.

Ok, so no pix...but if needed, U can find them in the Autozone manual section...
Again, many thinks to them for that nice service.

A bit more on the trans/tcase removalNIGHTMARE!
I believe that these rigs perform well enough. However, at in this age group, when something inside the drivetrain goes down, THROW the FLIPPIN' THING AWAY!!!
oN DISASSEMBLY, one can "cheat" a bit, by partially separating the trans from the block, so that you can un-bolt the torque converter...HOWEVER, on RE-ASSEMBLY, one does NOT have that option...and there is NO DIRECT LINE OF SIGHT, which is needed to properly aliogn the torque converter and then flex plate, per the match marks you made on dis-assembly...
I realize that as a distant second to TOYOTA, that Nissan engineers are handed the daunting task of making more from less and as such they must make numerous compromises. Wisely enough, these compromises are made at the expense of serviceability. Granted, all the manufacturers do this to one degree or another, but this is a nasty little bastach. If it were a Porsche or a Ferrari, it would be more understandable.
I know this will ruffle some feathers
S, I guess what I am saying is NEVER, NEVER BUY AN OLDER PATHFINDER, AS ONE DAY YOU'LL GET STUCK IN THIS VERY SITUATION...THE VEHICLE IS SIMPLY NOT WORTH IT.
aS i SAID BEFORE, WHEN NEW they are, no doubt great and work fine, when an oil change and rotating the tires is all that's required. It's just later on, they're too difficult, wrong nearly impossible to work on, making them a TERRIBLE CHOICE when shopping for an older/used vehicle.Because the repair will cost more than the vehicle is worth...if you have a mechanic who is familiar with the vehicle and does a respectable job...