Yep, same principle. That's for the lowers, where you want to move the arm outboard to go negative. I dunno what you have. For the uppers the direction is opposite, you want to pull the arm inboard to go negative.
Plumb bob? If you get 'em straight up and down, it should be plenty close enough for an alignment shop to set it precisely. With offset bushings, you'll want to offset the upper arms inboard and the lowers outboard.
Positive camber is when the tops of the wheels are further outboard than the bottom, negative is when the bottoms are further outboard than the top. Lifts pretty much always result in too much positive camber because of the arcs of the control arms. Specs usually call for negative camber on front wh...
Some cursory "research" on the web suggests that LEDs in an OEM housing designed for halogen bulbs is not a good idea. Does anyone have experience just swapping out halogen bulbs and replacing with LED - and what was the result? My grandpa used to say, "Everything is good and bad tha...
+1. Use alcohol or contact cleaner at the very least, and I usually use fine steel wool to make sure any and all oxides are removed. Anyway, scrub them bright.
If it's the type that has finger-springs on the slider, try bending the fingers so they make a little firmer contact with the board. If that doesn't help then you're probably into a new switch. If that's the case then use the part number off the switch to shop for a replacement, don't go by Make-Mod...
There's always chalk line, a tape measure, and a plumb bob. It isn't like the world always had laser alignment machines. If you understand what the specs mean, old school will get you pretty darn close.
Auto operation has a double throw on the same slider as normal up-down, so the most likely cause is crud on the circuit board. Very common, usually the slide contacts just need to be cleaned and greased.