Stuck in 3rd gear
Moderator: volvite
Stuck in 3rd gear
So Im on my way home this morning, cruising at about 50 when the truck shakes, shifts to 3rd and the service engine light comes on. It stayed in 3rd which I assume is limp home mode. This trans only has about 2500 miles on it. I got home, unplugged the battery and it is fine now. What can cause it to do such?
I assume you are on warranty with the new transmission. If so, you may have done yourself a disservice by resetting the ECM, as the service garage would definitely need to know the code that was thrown (at the very least) and probably would want to see it for themselves.
A code reader and a digital camera would have been better, so you could provide the diagnosis and prove that you actually had the code. Now you are at the mercy of your transmission, and whether it will reproduce the symptoms on command when you take 'er in...
I haven't seen anyone report the same symptoms as you have, so we can only hope that the fault is related to a blip or momentary loss of communication with between the ECM and TCM, and that by resetting it, hopefully the problem is resolved.
Not sure if you are still experiencing the same issues you had when it was first replaced, but maybe the reset will help that too?
Keep us updated, and next time, do whatever you can to get the code instead of disconnecting the battery.
A code reader and a digital camera would have been better, so you could provide the diagnosis and prove that you actually had the code. Now you are at the mercy of your transmission, and whether it will reproduce the symptoms on command when you take 'er in...
I haven't seen anyone report the same symptoms as you have, so we can only hope that the fault is related to a blip or momentary loss of communication with between the ECM and TCM, and that by resetting it, hopefully the problem is resolved.
Not sure if you are still experiencing the same issues you had when it was first replaced, but maybe the reset will help that too?
Keep us updated, and next time, do whatever you can to get the code instead of disconnecting the battery.
After researching this, it seems the general consensus is there is a fault in a clutch solenoid which would warrant a complete new valve body inside the trans. GRRRR this is so aggravating considering this trans was just installed 2500 miles ago. Ive really started to develop a love/hate relationship with my Pathfinder. Ahh well, its still covered under my extended warranty for about 10K more miles, they are just a pain in the ass to deal with.
Which brings me to my next topic...
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... 9290#29290
Which brings me to my next topic...
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... 9290#29290
i feel your pain brother... i'm in the process of flushing and replacing the ATF..i thought my brother had done the bypass 15k miles ago but after the car started giving problems he told me he had never done it. After flushing the ATF, it did not look contaminated. however, it was brown and smelled very burned even though we replaced the ATF 15k miles ago. There was also very low coolant that seemed to have disappeared, but i read in some other threads that people have had their coolant 'disappear' without the effects of a contamination. i'm hoping this flush will fix the limp mode, if not then it is most probably the solenoid which will require replacing the valve body of the transmission if i'm correct.
Mine did it again last night. According to freeze frame it was at 52 mph, which seems about what it was at the first time. Threw code P1774, which is labeled as "Manufacturer Control Transmission". But I cant find any useable info on that code. Googled OBDII Nissan codes and its not even listed.
Stupid question time....Is there a proper way to remove the cord from the OBDII connector? It seems like it clicks on but you cant just remove it. Couldnt find a tab to push or anything. Finally just had to pull and twist rather hard til it came off.
BTW, sleeper I think if I were you Id try the new warranty extension on yours, especially if coolant is disappearing. That is if you are in limitations of mileage.
Stupid question time....Is there a proper way to remove the cord from the OBDII connector? It seems like it clicks on but you cant just remove it. Couldnt find a tab to push or anything. Finally just had to pull and twist rather hard til it came off.
BTW, sleeper I think if I were you Id try the new warranty extension on yours, especially if coolant is disappearing. That is if you are in limitations of mileage.
I may have got lucky. Crawled underneath and checked sensor connections, there was one on the right side going into the trans that was somewhat loose. Not a whole lot but I was able to push it in a little more than it was. Cleared the code and drove trouble free for about 10 miles so far. Keeping fingers crossed
that's excellent!Budrbean wrote:I may have got lucky. Crawled underneath and checked sensor connections, there was one on the right side going into the trans that was somewhat loose. Not a whole lot but I was able to push it in a little more than it was. Cleared the code and drove trouble free for about 10 miles so far. Keeping fingers crossed
what side of the transmission is the connection?Budrbean wrote:Well I think I got lucky. Have driven it since Sunday with no issues. Once the snow melts I will get under and see why the connector is coming loose and make sure there is no corrosion.
drives side or passengers side? FACING THE CAR
thanks,
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