Differences between the kinds of ATF fluids available

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qek585
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Differences between the kinds of ATF fluids available

Postby qek585 » Mon Mar 16, 2015 10:57 pm

I'm talking about Nissan-matic K, D, J and S. I heard S replaced J, but when, and what of the other two? Are some newer, and therefore "better" to use on a transmission? Also, what kind does a 2008 V6 take?

I would have looked into my manual, but left it in a friend's car when we drove to get engine oil for the same car a while back.

I've looked at the ATF available at my local shop. Is castrol transmax multi-import the same as regular castrol multi-import? I've looked at that and valvoline maxlife and can't remember reading either complies with type J or S.


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:01 pm

Nissan Type "D" ATF is the original Dexron formula. Dexron and Dexron II have similar viscosity, but Dexron III/Mercon, which replaced the former Dexron formulas, has a thicker viscosity and has been found to potentially cause sticking in Nissan valve bodies. Nissan Type "S" ATF is the same as Castrol Transmax J/Import Multi Vehicle ATF are the same as Nissan Type "J," as it is also made by Castrol. This is a synthetic ATF that is the factory fill on the Nissan 5-spd. rear drive automatic transmissions used in Nissan trucks, like our R51 Pathfinder. Most, if not all, automatic transmission fluids that conform to the Japanese "JASO-1A" specification will work in Nissan Type "J" applications...and is also an acceptable choice for Type "D" applications, as well. When Nissan released the 7-spd. automatic transmission used in some of the Infiniti SUVs, it added friction modifiers to Type "J" ATF to create Type "S," so Type "S" essentially replaces Type "J." Nissan Type "K" ATF was used in Aisin transmissions, but is also compatible with most ATF's that are covered under the JASO-A1 spec, such as Maxlife, Castrol Import Multi-vehicle, Royal Purple ATF, Amsoil ATF, etc.
So, the bottom line is if you don't want to pay the high cost of genuine Nissan ATF, there are a number of alternatives on the aftermarket; just make sure you choose one that is recommended for your application.
I've been running Valvoline Maxlife for about 4 years in my 06 LE and 08 SE (automatic transmission and transfer case) without any issues and I can get it in a 1-gallon jug from Advance Auto, which makes it handy.

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 6:46 am

I used the Valvoline Max Life for my drain and fill at 75k
Fluid still bright red and tranny doing good at 145k

jose969
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ATF

Postby jose969 » Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:28 am

I was wondering, if I've never flushed or changed the ATF in my 05, would it hurt if I flush it now with 150k on it. It's still bright red and I haven't done the bypass yet, just been hella busy. I have about 12qts of Royal to replace it with, but was told that I should even bother at this point in time. That if I did replace it I would have problems show up, because the new ATF would clean the varnish off of everything and might cause problems.

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eieio
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Re: ATF

Postby eieio » Fri Jul 03, 2015 9:03 am

jose969 wrote:I was wondering, if I've never flushed or changed the ATF in my 05, would it hurt if I flush it now with 150k on it. It's still bright red and I haven't done the bypass yet, just been hella busy. I have about 12qts of Royal to replace it with, but was told that I should even bother at this point in time. That if I did replace it I would have problems show up, because the new ATF would clean the varnish off of everything and might cause problems.
1) a drain & fill is probably a better idea than a pressure flush
2) i'm not sure about the "Royal", but there are several good alternatives (see above post from "smj999smj")
3) the by-pass takes less time than the fluid change, and can easily be done at the same time
4):idea: if you think you're "hella busy" now, just think of how busy you'll be if putting off the by-pass results in a $4K-$7K repair bill for a new transmission

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08PathPounder
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Postby 08PathPounder » Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:42 am

How many qts is the drain & fill ? I just hit 60k on 7/4/15 & would like to put royal purple atf in the trans and transfer case.. I have the manual and it just has ---- where the fluid amount is normally listed
Image

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:52 am

Drain and fill takes about a gallon of ATF.

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labsy
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Postby labsy » Sun Jul 05, 2015 9:40 am

Maybe to bump this up, because I am also into changing ATF in my Pathy. The options I am considering:

1.) As asked gozillion of times, should I follow Nissan OEM recommendations, or excellent SMJ's explanation on ATF fluids? So, Nissan MATIC-S or Valvoline Maxlife or something else...that's the question #1.

2.) Just drain or complete flush, question #2. In general, fresh (flush) should be better, but I hear here and there some stories from old mechanics, that somebody somewhere ruined his gearbox just by flushing it with new ATF.

Any experience first hand?

**** EDIT ****
Just found excellent reading on Flushing vs. Draining ATF here:
http://mdhmotors.com/transmission-flush ... nsmission/

**** EDIT 2 ****
I feel like an idiot, because most of the time I find answers to my questions myself before anybody answers :)
Here's what original Nissan Service Manual says about ATF change:
- first drain
- then flush until you freshen up the whole amount of ATF
Image

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Thu Dec 12, 2019 10:26 am

Even though I am bringing up an ancient thread.
I will do it anyway.
I just noticed it because a spammer was posting into it.

1) Do what smj recommended.
2) Drain and refill if your tranny fluid is very dirty.

I have first hand experience with this in an Xterra (same transmission as ours)
Dealer did a flush.... less than 200 miles later I need a new valvebody.
Not as bad as a new tranny but not cheap either...

Apparently the flush can press dirt into tiny crevices in the valvebody causing problems.
Flush is safe ( even a good thing) to do before the ATF gets too bad.. But once its very dirty.. we recommend drain and refills.


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