Articulation Test
Moderator: volvite
Poor mans quick disconnect, Xterraownersclub.com
Hope this helps some, could be a bit different, due to the fact that this mod right here is done to a 1st gen xterra. I'll search some more to see if i can come up with some pics and more detail.
From RMXC.
I used Ford shock bushings - Rancho part RS979 (courtesy of MikeH). They came with washers. I have found that the plastic nobs do split if you over tighten them, so its worth getting some spares.
Joey & Ian's "Front Swaybar Quick Disconnect Tutorial" as of 12/08/00
You need to do some shopping first:
1) 3/8" x 5" Grade 8 Bolt - total of 2 - $1.50 ea
2) 3/8" nut with knob - total of 2 - $4 ea
3) Urethane Bushings - total of 8 - $9 for a package of 8 (you can use
either the ones meant for swaybars or shock tower ones (they are a little
smaller)
4) 3/8" washers. Make sure they have some thickness to them. - 10 (8 for use, 2 for spare) - 8 cents each (total of 80 cents)
The only hard to come by part is the nut with knob. Lowes has a rossetta
style plastic knob with nut (Ian's type) and McGuckins has an all metalic
garden faucet style (Joey's type). After much tinkering around, we've found that you have less fear cranking down on the all metal ones but since they are metal, they rust.
Once you have the parts, it's really simple "Out with old, in with the new".
1) Draw a quick diagram (or print the picture on Ian's homepage http://www.xterrain.com/xmods8.html ) of the existing order of components: nut, washer, bushing, bushing, washer, shaft, washer, bushing, bushing, washer, Bolt. ...so you know how to reassemble it.
2) The most difficult part: get in there with a rachet and take out the existing bolt.
3) reassemble using new components. Make sure you really tighten the knob otherwise it will work loose under normal driving.
Ready to 4x4? Take everything off. This takes about 4 minutes now.[/u]
Hope this helps some, could be a bit different, due to the fact that this mod right here is done to a 1st gen xterra. I'll search some more to see if i can come up with some pics and more detail.
From RMXC.
I used Ford shock bushings - Rancho part RS979 (courtesy of MikeH). They came with washers. I have found that the plastic nobs do split if you over tighten them, so its worth getting some spares.
Joey & Ian's "Front Swaybar Quick Disconnect Tutorial" as of 12/08/00
You need to do some shopping first:
1) 3/8" x 5" Grade 8 Bolt - total of 2 - $1.50 ea
2) 3/8" nut with knob - total of 2 - $4 ea
3) Urethane Bushings - total of 8 - $9 for a package of 8 (you can use
either the ones meant for swaybars or shock tower ones (they are a little
smaller)
4) 3/8" washers. Make sure they have some thickness to them. - 10 (8 for use, 2 for spare) - 8 cents each (total of 80 cents)
The only hard to come by part is the nut with knob. Lowes has a rossetta
style plastic knob with nut (Ian's type) and McGuckins has an all metalic
garden faucet style (Joey's type). After much tinkering around, we've found that you have less fear cranking down on the all metal ones but since they are metal, they rust.
Once you have the parts, it's really simple "Out with old, in with the new".
1) Draw a quick diagram (or print the picture on Ian's homepage http://www.xterrain.com/xmods8.html ) of the existing order of components: nut, washer, bushing, bushing, washer, shaft, washer, bushing, bushing, washer, Bolt. ...so you know how to reassemble it.
2) The most difficult part: get in there with a rachet and take out the existing bolt.
3) reassemble using new components. Make sure you really tighten the knob otherwise it will work loose under normal driving.
Ready to 4x4? Take everything off. This takes about 4 minutes now.[/u]
Okay, I looked at all the current options we have. The older xterra mods won't work since our links are a single unit with the bolts attached to the ball joints. So, short of drilling a hole through the existing bolts and using a rubber bushing and cotter pin (which is not very secure), it is actually easier and more secure just to remove the bolts with a good-'ol 17mm ratchet-style box wrench, $17 at Lowes and 7 minutes of your time.
Since I have the OME upgrade and PolyAirs, I sometimes leave the swaybars disconnected after off-roading until I get home. Or, to save time, I will just connect the front SB only. This is a good compromise. Very little body roll. Then, if I don't plan on off roading for a while, I will connect both SB.
But, I strongly suggest off roading with the SB disconnected. It's a huge difference in traction and ride.
I believe the cotter pin, washer and bushing concept just won't hold strong enough and give too much play. I just keep the bolts lubricated for easy removal.
Since I have the OME upgrade and PolyAirs, I sometimes leave the swaybars disconnected after off-roading until I get home. Or, to save time, I will just connect the front SB only. This is a good compromise. Very little body roll. Then, if I don't plan on off roading for a while, I will connect both SB.
But, I strongly suggest off roading with the SB disconnected. It's a huge difference in traction and ride.
I believe the cotter pin, washer and bushing concept just won't hold strong enough and give too much play. I just keep the bolts lubricated for easy removal.
Rodel,
Does that mean you're giving up on the disconnect project? I'd have to agree-I would never trust a cotter pin for anything. I have too many winter projects under way right now, so I probably won't be able to help until spring. What about straps to keep the swaybar out of the way? I've replaced many a bushing on swaybars, and I can honestly say that I would only want to drive around with the bar safely out of harm's way.
Does that mean you're giving up on the disconnect project? I'd have to agree-I would never trust a cotter pin for anything. I have too many winter projects under way right now, so I probably won't be able to help until spring. What about straps to keep the swaybar out of the way? I've replaced many a bushing on swaybars, and I can honestly say that I would only want to drive around with the bar safely out of harm's way.
No solution yet. But when I go talk to Greg at PRG, I'll bring up the subject. I do know he's made some special links for people wanting to do the Titan front suspension swap, so maybe we can take those and modify them to do some sort of quick disconnects.jorgecar wrote:ragpaoa,ragpaoa wrote:Steve,
Nope, I'm not going to quit. I'm still trying to find a solution.
did you finally find a solution?
cheers
If not disconnects, at least new links that has more movement to allow the full articulation of the wheels (i.e. Heim joints), which I like better so we don't have to worry about disconnecting all the time.
I'll keep you posted.
By the way jorgecar, where are you located?
I'm located in Costa Rica, Central America.ragpaoa wrote:jorgecar wrote:ragpaoa,ragpaoa wrote:Steve,
Nope, I'm not going to quit. I'm still trying to find a solution.
did you finally find a solution?
cheers
I'll keep you posted.
By the way jorgecar, where are you located?
Mine's a 2.5 liter turbodiesel Pathy built in Spain. Pretty much only the engine is different, and maybe a few other minor interior and exterior details.
Complaints: crappy clutch, weak suspension, soft brakes and no ABLS with my SE trim!
Other than that, the engine is very torquey and nice to drive with the 6-speed manual transmission. I need to get the ARB locker, I've been stuck in ridiculous situations: wet grass or just a little mud...duh!
cheers
Hey JorgeCar,
Just wondering if you can get a price of the rear R230 3.538 Ring and Pinion gearset for the TD Pathy over there in Costa Rica at your local dealer. I have an ARB locker that ARB wants to install, but will only work with R&P 3.538 and UP (which is not available in the US). I have a diff shop in Washington that can do my front to a 3.538 to match.
Maybe we can do some sort of even trade once the new Pathy suspension from PRG are done next week.
Thanks,
Just wondering if you can get a price of the rear R230 3.538 Ring and Pinion gearset for the TD Pathy over there in Costa Rica at your local dealer. I have an ARB locker that ARB wants to install, but will only work with R&P 3.538 and UP (which is not available in the US). I have a diff shop in Washington that can do my front to a 3.538 to match.
Maybe we can do some sort of even trade once the new Pathy suspension from PRG are done next week.
Thanks,
-
guinnessjim
- Posts: 245
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:58 pm
- Location: Newport, OR
suspension upgrade will be just that.....a significantly more competent off-road suspension. i have the OME, so i can't speak to the PRG, but you will get heavier duty shocks struts and and springs which will:
a) give you a better, more controlled ride (IMHO both on and offroad)
b) give you a minor lift (2.5-3")
c) more aggressive stance w/ potentially larger tires (not sure about the tires part)
for example, here is the basic set up
http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfindersus.html
i didn't go thru RR, but i know ppl on this board who have
a search of the post should bring up numerous threads and pics of OME. here is a pic i took of my pathy a few days ago.
a) give you a better, more controlled ride (IMHO both on and offroad)
b) give you a minor lift (2.5-3")
c) more aggressive stance w/ potentially larger tires (not sure about the tires part)
for example, here is the basic set up
http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfindersus.html
i didn't go thru RR, but i know ppl on this board who have
a search of the post should bring up numerous threads and pics of OME. here is a pic i took of my pathy a few days ago.
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