Hey there everyone, so I picked up a 2WD 2002 Pathfinder LE last week, 131k original miles. Its a pretty nice SUV all around but my biggest concern is a loud ticking coming from the engine. I hear it most up top, but I also hear it quite a bit from the passenger wheel well. The ticking is constant, doesn't matter if the engine is cool, warm, running at idle and when revved the ticking gets faster.
So I'm reading a number of things, the one that stands out most to me is the problem is quite possibly the valve lifters. As such, I have tried the following:
1. Drained all the oil and ran ATF in it for a few minutes at idle to see if that would make a difference, it didn't.
2. After this, I of course changed the oil with Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30 and added a little sea foam in it... but no fix here either.
So at this stage I'm thinking my only option is to replace the valve lifters. The problem is the FSM is very vague on this. I can't figure out how many new lifters I need. I have seen people argue over whether or not the VQ35DE even has hydraulic lifters.
1. So first question is, does anyone know of a good DIY write up, or has anyone done the lifters on the 02 Pathfinder's VQ35DE that can walk me through this/answer some questions for me?
2. Primarily when I look through the FSM it talks about a shim type Valve lifter, and a shimless type. I think I have a shimless type since the FSM says shimless was produced since August 2001, and my SUV is a 2002. But can anyone help me figure this out definitively?
3. How many lifters are there?
4. Are any special tools needed to remove the old/install the new?
5. What is the likelihood that its something else and not the lifters, or a combination of other things? What else should I check?
Spending the money and putting the time/work into replacing the lifters and it not being the issue.
I really want to enjoy this SUV and I don't mind giving it the TLC it needs, but I'm not in the habit of throwing money at the problems. I need help diagnosing and if it is the lifters, help beyond the one page or so of the FSM with exactly what to order to do the job and some guidance on how to do it.
Here are two videos to show you guys the sound:
Video 1 This was the night I picked it up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yYkSH5nAcU
Video 2 This is after running some ATF before doing a full oil change, as you can see no improvement:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EQ4ejwP8hk
Ticking coming from an 02 VQ35DE. Please help!
Moderator: volvite
I don't think it's the valve lifters, which are solid, not hydraulic, in VQ engines. Also, there are 24 lifters, or, four per cylinder. You probably have shimmed lifters, which were in vehicles produced until 07/2002. After that date, they were shimless, meaning to adjust the valve clearance, one had to measure the clearances of the lifters and, if any were out of spec, replace the lifter with the appropriate size lifter to get the clearances in spec. There are many different size lifters, that run about $23 each and requires removing the camshafts, which is a major project.
If you have the shimmed lifters, which you likely due, you have to measure the clearances and, if the clearance is out of spec, determine the correct shim to install to get the clearance in spec. Shims run about $16 each. There is a special tool required to press down on the lifter, which compresses the valve spring, and allow enough room to replace the shim, which there is another tool designed to do this. While this is easier than having to remove camshafts, it is still a pretty big job.
This all said, valve clearances almost never change on these engines. If they were set right at the factory, they are likely still in spec, now. You can always pull a valve cover and measure clearance with a feeler gauge to be sure.
There are a couple of things that come to mind as to what could be your problem. Some of these engines were known to have the bolts fall out of the power valve butterflies in the intake manifold due to lack of sufficient thread locker. They would drop on top of the valve head and start clicking and eventually ball into the combustion chamber where in the worst case scenario, they could ruin an engine.
Personally, I think the problem has something to due with the variable valve timing. There are ways to control the valve timing to help determine if this is the issue, but requires a capable scan tool. I would first make sure the oil level is good and the engine is not sludged and that the oil pressure is in spec.
As far as the special tool, there are a couple available. Stillen makes a really nice, but expensive, one. Here is an example of a more basic style:
http://www.etoolcart.com/valveadjusting ... 38972.aspx
If you have the shimmed lifters, which you likely due, you have to measure the clearances and, if the clearance is out of spec, determine the correct shim to install to get the clearance in spec. Shims run about $16 each. There is a special tool required to press down on the lifter, which compresses the valve spring, and allow enough room to replace the shim, which there is another tool designed to do this. While this is easier than having to remove camshafts, it is still a pretty big job.
This all said, valve clearances almost never change on these engines. If they were set right at the factory, they are likely still in spec, now. You can always pull a valve cover and measure clearance with a feeler gauge to be sure.
There are a couple of things that come to mind as to what could be your problem. Some of these engines were known to have the bolts fall out of the power valve butterflies in the intake manifold due to lack of sufficient thread locker. They would drop on top of the valve head and start clicking and eventually ball into the combustion chamber where in the worst case scenario, they could ruin an engine.
Personally, I think the problem has something to due with the variable valve timing. There are ways to control the valve timing to help determine if this is the issue, but requires a capable scan tool. I would first make sure the oil level is good and the engine is not sludged and that the oil pressure is in spec.
As far as the special tool, there are a couple available. Stillen makes a really nice, but expensive, one. Here is an example of a more basic style:
http://www.etoolcart.com/valveadjusting ... 38972.aspx
Holy crap. at $387 for the tool thats not gonna work.
The build date is 03/2002. I will check the power valve butterflies as I think I should do that anyway from what I've been reading. If its not the problem, it could be in the future.
Could you elaborate more on this point if you've got a chance? "There are ways to control the valve timing to help determine if this is the issue, but requires a capable scan tool. I would first make sure the oil level is good and the engine is not sludged and that the oil pressure is in spec. "
The oil level IS good as I just changed it and checked it. As far as sludged I'm not sure how to check that but I did the ATF trick to help clean it out.
The build date is 03/2002. I will check the power valve butterflies as I think I should do that anyway from what I've been reading. If its not the problem, it could be in the future.
Could you elaborate more on this point if you've got a chance? "There are ways to control the valve timing to help determine if this is the issue, but requires a capable scan tool. I would first make sure the oil level is good and the engine is not sludged and that the oil pressure is in spec. "
The oil level IS good as I just changed it and checked it. As far as sludged I'm not sure how to check that but I did the ATF trick to help clean it out.
There are downloadable factory service manuals available on the web for your Pathy that would be worthwhile for you to get. Nico Club's site has them and NissanHelp.com has downloadable chapters in their "knowledge base," among other places. If you are planning to work on your vehicle yourself, the information they provide can't be matched, including a description of the variable camshaft timing system. The sites also have technical service bulletins, which can sometimes be careful.
If you going to check the power valve screws, you'll need to remove the upper plenum. If you are going to do that, then it would be a good time to remove the valve covers and use a feeler gauge to check the valve clearances. You would also be able to check the top of the cylinder heads for sludge at this time. Sludge can clog the oil passages of the variable timing actuators and the VTC gears.
If you going to check the power valve screws, you'll need to remove the upper plenum. If you are going to do that, then it would be a good time to remove the valve covers and use a feeler gauge to check the valve clearances. You would also be able to check the top of the cylinder heads for sludge at this time. Sludge can clog the oil passages of the variable timing actuators and the VTC gears.
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