Inside the back drawer; pretty decent room to store all my weird hiking/survivalist crap:
View of my simple latch to keep the drawer from sliding and the rings I added to fill in for the factory cargo hooks buried under the box:
Here's the side of the box that faces the second row, including of course my 10" sub to relive highschool music:
Here's the inside of the back (really front) compartment. It's pretty spacious, as it takes advantage of the area formerly taken up by the third row.
Finally, a picture to capture the most difficult aspect of the build.
The plywood in the back of the picture separates the space where the sliding drawer sits from the deeper compartment where the sub sits and the third row used to be. You have to cut this piece and the one that faces the second row to contour the floor and sides of the cargo area. No big deal, but took some trial and error. Next, you can see the area where the light mark where the plywood is split. That's from me drilling a hole for the mounting bracket. I used a standard L bracket from the hardware store to mount to the plywood bulkhead, and then bolt to the floor of the truck on a mounting point for the third row, like the one in the foreground here. I'd have to take the drawer out to show you the actual bracket, and didn't feel like it. Sorry. If anyone is actually building this and wants to see how I did it, let me know and I'll put the effort in.
The top surface where cargo rides on top of the box is just shelf liner from Lowe's that I attached with spray adhesive. This is my second version of the box, as the first was too tall and too heavy. Version 3.0 might be sheet metal, but I'm worried I might get weird reverberations from the subwoofer. If you don't have a sub and can weld, then I'd recommend that route because the only drawback is I feel like I can only put 200 lbs on top of the box near the tailgate without it breaking.