Hi all, I've only just started posting as a new owner of a 2012 Pathfinder. I'm going through all of what it needs to be ideal for our uses and next on my list is suspension.

We bought it pretty exclusively to be a camping/daytripping vehicle for the family. We live pretty close to some great stuff accessed by 4-wheel drive roads and this will give us a lot more flexibility than the Subaru. It will almost never get driven around town, just 1-4 hours on pavement, then probably several hours on 4-wheel drive roads that vary from mildly technical to moderately technical. Our type of 4-wheeling is slow and bumpy and often very steep, NOT fast baja-style driving. Silverton, CO and the area around Bears Ears in Utah will be the terrain this sees the most of. We do somewhat technical trails, but nothing that should require more than stock clearance and stock tire sizes. It's possible I'll get 265 70 R17's to replace what's on there now, which is only .5in higher than stock.

So I'm replacing the stock suspension, which is long since worn out. I took it on a pretty mild pass this last weekend and it did totally fine, just felt like a boat with little/no damping. The rear bump stops are about 1.5 inches from the frame when it sits level, and there is evidence that they contact fairly often.

I'm thinking that I want to swap in Moog springs, PN 81119 and 81280 and a set of 4600 Bilsteins. From what I understand, these two will work together and give me a lift of about .5 to .75 inches? I'm pretty unfamiliar with anything but stock suspension and how it will affect the ride/handling. I'd like to try and spend less than $650.00 on parts+alignment, I'll do the work myself.

Based on the kind of driving I'm describing, does this sound like a good fit? Open to other suggestions as well, thanks in advance!

I replaced the rear shocks and front struts;

Here is a list of Moog part numbers and shocks (and alot of other things) that I used to rehab my older Pathfinder.
Keep in mind, mine is a V8 model so part numbers may be different as mine has a higher curb weight than yours (I assume yours is a V6 as the V8 guys always make a point of mentioning the engine and V8s were ultrarare for 2012)

The bilsteins came recommend but based on what was in stock, I went with another brand that is also well reviewed;
topic20975.html

Ah, yes, sorry I do have the more common V6. Thanks for the link, that's a great amount of maintenance you did on yours, and a great list of things to check over time.

The Moog springs and 4600s are great. The springs are what should have come on these trucks from the beginning.

I'd go with the Bills, and if the OEM springs are worn, maybe consider OEM spring replacement as well.
Measure your height at arches.

TooMuchControl wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 06, 2023 7:16 pm

I'd go with the Bills, and if the OEM springs are worn, maybe consider OEM spring replacement as well.
Measure your height at arches.

The OEM rear springs by themselves are too soft, even when new. You can spot a stock Pathfinder on the highway by the way it wallows and sways in the back. Zero reason not to go with Moog for the cost.

I loved the change the Bilsteins performed, by themselves.
Obvious that more may be needed here, as, bump stops are being hit, and more coils will stiffen it.

I'm actually wondering about going with the 81117 Moog springs, which are the rears for the V8 version. The diameter, wire diameter, and compressed length are the same, but the at-rest length is .37" longer. This thing is going to be loaded up with camping stuff and both the kids more often than not, I wonder if a little extra height will be nice to have. They don't say how many lbs of force each one is rated for though. I assume it's pretty similar if they're the same wire size.

But I don't know if that's compatible with the Bilsteins that belong in this car, I might have to get different shocks, which I kinda don't want to do. Might just go with the 81119 springs for the v6.

Any thoughts?

I have the Moog V-6 springs. Before I installed them, I had to run my Airlift bags at 5-8 psi to keep the rear "about right" when empty, and would bump them to anywhere from 12-20 psi for different loads. This includes big mountain bike trips with a full heavy rack with three bikes, three adults, all the gear for a week in the woods, etc.

With the Moog springs, I run the Airlift bags at 0 psi. If I have two bikes, two adults, and all the gear, 5 psi gets it back to level without feeling under or over sprung. With some of my max loads of the past, would not anticipate going beyond 12-15 psi.

Short version, the V-6 springs and maybe air bags will be just perfect for what you're doing. If the V-8 springs are beyond the V-6 springs they will be oversprung a bit. I do not like my Moog springs with air in the air bags and no load, it's definitely too stiff.

Shipfixer,
That was exactly the kind of feedback I needed, thank you!

I think the spring rate of the V8 springs would be quite similar, since the wire is the same diameter. The question would just be how many wraps do each set have. I think they're just pre set to a higher sag to account for the extra weight, and not much more at that, just .37" But I could be wrong about all of this.

I'll start with the V6 springs, and if I'm bottoming them out all the time, I might try the V8s. If I'm only bottoming them out sometimes, and want the extra support, I'll go with airbags. If I'm rarely bottoming them out I'll just leave as is, which is my preference if I can swing it.

Shipfixer, what airbags are you running, and do you like them/would you buy them again?

Just purchased the Moog front and rear springs, all in cost was $200. Planning on ordering the Bilstein 4600's front and rear. For an install cost at a local shop what should I expect to pay? Been looking to do this on my 2012 V6 for years now.

Erichimedes wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 12, 2023 7:29 am

Shipfixer, what airbags are you running, and do you like them/would you buy them again?

I have the AirLift 1000 bags. On my second set (purchased new ones with the Moog springs in 2018) and they work great, never any issues.

One note here, with the Moogs you definitely want to install the airbags with the springs. The stock springs have a lot of space between the coils and I was able to push the deflated bags in while the truck was jacked up on each side. Wouldn't want to try the same with the Moogs, it's much easier to put the bags in from the top while you have the coil bucket detached from the knuckle.

OMRebels wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 22, 2023 6:28 pm

Just purchased the Moog front and rear springs, all in cost was $200. Planning on ordering the Bilstein 4600's front and rear. For an install cost at a local shop what should I expect to pay? Been looking to do this on my 2012 V6 for years now.

Dunno...but I would at least take a look at installing the rear shocks yourself first, and maybe the rear coil springs. If you have space to work, the rear shocks are maybe the easiest thing to do. Rear coils can get a little fussy if the bolts in the knuckles are seized, but also not too mechanically difficult. Would replace the rubber spring seat in the back at the same time you replace the springs, just out of principle...

Front shocks and springs require a spring compressor, that gets trickier if you don't have access to one. But what you can do is buy a new spring perch and strut mount, and have a shop assemble the whole strut assembly (spring plus shock plus strut mount and perch) for you. Then installing at home is pretty easy.

ShipFixer wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 22, 2023 11:32 pm

OMRebels wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 22, 2023 6:28 pm

Just purchased the Moog front and rear springs, all in cost was $200. Planning on ordering the Bilstein 4600's front and rear. For an install cost at a local shop what should I expect to pay? Been looking to do this on my 2012 V6 for years now.

Dunno...but I would at least take a look at installing the rear shocks yourself first, and maybe the rear coil springs. If you have space to work, the rear shocks are maybe the easiest thing to do. Rear coils can get a little fussy if the bolts in the knuckles are seized, but also not too mechanically difficult. Would replace the rubber spring seat in the back at the same time you replace the springs, just out of principle...

Front shocks and springs require a spring compressor, that gets trickier if you don't have access to one. But what you can do is buy a new spring perch and strut mount, and have a shop assemble the whole strut assembly (spring plus shock plus strut mount and perch) for you. Then installing at home is pretty easy.

Great! I appreciate your input. I'll plan on having the rubber spring seat replaced at the same time. Any other components I should look at having done at the same time? I think I've seen other posts saying to do sway bar, bushings etc.

I'd do sway bar bushings yourself for sure. They're pretty easy. Sway bar end links are another thing to look at. The originals can be a PITA to remove if they are rusty, but worth checking out and replacing if they are notchy or have play in them. Moog makes some replacements that are a little burlier than the stock ones too.

Things to check include the control arms, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Can do this yourself while jacking up each wheel, and/or ask the shop that does any of this for you to check it out. Gets pricey to have them do your LCAs and UCAs though...had Nissan do four LCAs this year and I think it was a total of $3K.