check engine light

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Green
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Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:40 am
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

check engine light

Postby Green » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:06 am

Hey guys. Newly signed up but I've lurked on the board since I bought my 2005 Pathy SE a year and half ago.

I have two questions:

#1) The check engine light just came on last night. I have heard there may be parts stores that will let you borrow a code reader and wondered if there may be a "best" franchise to go to? Or, would the code reader be worth buying to have on hand? If yes, were should I buy it from? The truck seems to drive just fine with the light on. Possibly a slight decrease in power, but that is most likely my paranoia. It has 73k miles and is totaly stock. It is my wifes daily driver (by daily I mean she drives it to the grocery store and errands a couple days a week. We bought it so we could take family adventures off road here in Utah).

And #2) When the truck is in 4 wheel drive, there is a popping sound that comes from the front end only when the wheels are turned one way or the other more than about 25% of the range of the steering diameter. It doesn't happen when we are only on rear wheel drive. I dont' think it is the cv joints but I don't know much about 4x4 systems. The Pathy is my first one. Is this something I should worry about?

Thanks for your help,

Green


ByPath
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2010 11:52 pm

Postby ByPath » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:15 am

ya those auto parts shops will let u borrow one for free.

but it boggles me that toyota is taking so much heat when their cars are flawless in reliability....and u get piece of junk nissans with problems like this.

it's probably another "known" problem with the pathfinder.

KEVSTER
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Postby KEVSTER » Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:56 am

Bypath, if you can't say anything good, than do not. and grow up.. Now.,,, the noise could be a dry CV joint, when in 4wd the vehicle should be in dirt or snow, ice.. not on dry ground if on dry ground this noise is probably the 4wd system chattering. as for the check light, is the gas cap bad? loose? this is always overlooked on many vehicles. is the rubber gasket seal in good cond? Many vehicles have there ups and downs and Toyota is under fire because they were slow on reacting to the serious problems.

NVRDONE
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Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 1:35 pm
Location: seattle

Postby NVRDONE » Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:43 pm

First have an auto parts store check the code, then post it here & I will let you know what the code is for. Don't spend the $$ on a code reader unless you use it alot. It's not worth it for personal use.

Second, take the gas cap off & reinstall it clicking it down 3-5 times.
Then drive it atleast 5 drive cycles - starting, driving & restarting. It make a few days. If the light goes off, it was a loose gas cap. 80 % of the check engine lights we see are for a loose gas cap.

Third - the popping noise you hear may be from the front tires "skipping" on dry pavement when in 4wd. Or it could be a u joint in the front drive line acting up. I doubt it's a c/v joint.

Good luck & keep us posted. We're all here to help.

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myriad46
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Postby myriad46 » Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:25 pm

- Turn key to On without starting the car.
- Wait 3 seconds
- Depress the gas pedal to the floor and release completely 5 times within 5 seconds, and leave your foot off.
- Wait 7 seconds
- Depress gas pedal and hold down until the check engine light goes out and let go of the pedal.

The light will now flash your 4-digit code. If there is more than one code in the system it will do them in order and then repeat.

You have the option to erase the code and make the light go off. When in this mode, hold the gas pedal down for 10 seconds. When you turn the car off and then back on , the light should be gone. That is, if the problem is not still there.

ByPath
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Postby ByPath » Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:44 pm

you gotta call it what it is, go check out carcomplaints.com and tell me who the obvious champion is for reliability.

friends nissan just shut down on the freeway at 70k miles with his family inside.

friends toyota corolla is kicking botty and taking names at 250,000 miles.

has nothing to do with growing up, everything to do with nissan's junk cars.
KEVSTER wrote:Bypath, if you can't say anything good, than do not. and grow up.. Now.,,, the noise could be a dry CV joint, when in 4wd the vehicle should be in dirt or snow, ice.. not on dry ground if on dry ground this noise is probably the 4wd system chattering. as for the check light, is the gas cap bad? loose? this is always overlooked on many vehicles. is the rubber gasket seal in good cond? Many vehicles have there ups and downs and Toyota is under fire because they were slow on reacting to the serious problems.

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myriad46
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Postby myriad46 » Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:51 pm

ByPath wrote:you gotta call it what it is, go check out carcomplaints.com and tell me who the obvious champion is for reliability.

friends nissan just shut down on the freeway at 70k miles with his family inside.

friends toyota corolla is kicking botty and taking names at 250,000 miles.

has nothing to do with growing up, everything to do with nissan's junk cars.
No...Honda/Toyota fans are just in a self-induced, deluded love fest like iPhone fans. You start to rationalize the bad, to uphold your opinion. Nothing could ever be wrong with their precious cars. **dough-eyed fawning face** They may last till 250K miles, but not without pumping money in. Maybe Nissan fans just know when it's time to trade in for a new whip? What are you doing on this board anyway?

NVRDONE
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Location: seattle

Postby NVRDONE » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:00 pm

myriad46 - where did you get this info about clearing the code ? i just talked to my Nissan master tech & he's never heard of such a process.

I have the privlidge of managing an independent Japanese Auto repair shop & so we see all the concerns on Japanese vehicles. Some have more quirks than others, but I think Toyota is getting alot of bad press & the media is blowing the problems all out or porportion.

By choice I drive an 06 Pathfinder & my wife drives an 01 Acurta TL. I wouldn't own them if they had more problems than another make.
I would not own a Mitsubishi, Susuki or Isuzu due to their lack of reliability & parts availability.

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myriad46
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Postby myriad46 » Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:05 pm

I'll try to find the source, but I think it's in the service manual. It's in the section for checking the odb codes, without a reader. It worked for my 04 sentra too.

Flick
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Location: Pa.

Postby Flick » Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:05 pm

ByPath you need to take your Nissan if you own one to your local Toyota dealer and trade it in on one of there nice new self-propelled vehicles. Flawless reliability What about the thousands of Tacoma pickups that snapped in half or were about to from rotted out frames that Toyota gave one and a half times book price to silence their customers from going public(NO RECALL)How about all the Sequoias that rollover when their ball joints and a-arms fail(NO RECALL) People are getting killed in these vehicles and you use the word flawless. One guy is doing 8 yrs. prison time for vehicular homicide because his flawless Toyota mowed over a woman crossing the street and the jury said it wasn't the cars fault not a Toyota it would never accelerate by it's self. Bad press if this were any other car co. they would get it a 100 times worse than flawless co. is getting it. Go join the flawless co. forum you'll get a lot more Nissan bashing support there.

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Tech
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Postby Tech » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:05 pm

I would be hesitant to reset the light - especially if it could still be warranty. You have to have the code and freeze frame data to make a claim. And there are evap codes that have updated parts, ECM programs and longer warranties. You won't know if an EVAP code is a gas cap or something else...


don't kid yourselves. I'm as inside and insider as you'll ever know. Every manufacturer is the same - they all farm out electronic parts manufacturering to the same few companies - regarless if it's nissan, honda, toy, or whatever - you don't see Nissan brakes, or Honda control units - you see Nissin/akebono and Calsonic. Shit, you ever look to see who makes hybrid controllers for Nissan? You ever consider how many small parts must be prototyped, formed and tested to build a vehicle? Then make it specific for each region of the world?! Yeah, sometimes parts interact in unpredictable ways. I'll tell you first hand that Nissan has the highest corporate average for recalls, not because they make a shittier product, but because they're more willing to take care. you have no idea how many "campaigns" are put out by all manufacturers that don't make it to recalls. It also varies by region and driving environment - they're not just entire US blankets. Anyway, I thought this forum was for helping each other out, not mindless, unproductive bashing of a product we obviouly all own. Enough with the short-sighted flaming;

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08Datsun
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Postby 08Datsun » Fri Feb 26, 2010 1:02 am

I find a code reader highly helpful. I've only used it once on the Pathfinder, but it helped me find a TSB on the code that I brought into the dealer. That particular problem was an evap code that required a reflash of the computer but no actual parts. As cars get older and they start throwing more codes, it is really helpful to know if it is a big thing or something you can put off. My Maxima shed five sensors last year(158k) and I saved hundreds replacing them myself. Well, except for the knock sensor which I had to take to my mechanic because my hands are too big to get at it.

Its hard to tell about the popping noise without being there. Like the others said, it may be the normal tension in the system when you turn. In a normal part time system, the truck will "crow hop" when the tension is released. The more traction you have, the more noticeable it is. If it is an actual metallic sound, then maybe you have something else going on there.

As for reliability, I've been driving Nissans since they were Datsuns. Hence my name on here. I would have moved on if they weren't solid.

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HillbillyJake
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Postby HillbillyJake » Fri Feb 26, 2010 6:32 am

Flick wrote:ByPath you need to take your Nissan if you own one to your local Toyota dealer and trade it in on one of there nice new self-propelled vehicles. Flawless reliability What about the thousands of Tacoma pickups that snapped in half or were about to from rotted out frames that Toyota gave one and a half times book price to silence their customers from going public(NO RECALL)How about all the Sequoias that rollover when their ball joints and a-arms fail(NO RECALL) People are getting killed in these vehicles and you use the word flawless. One guy is doing 8 yrs. prison time for vehicular homicide because his flawless Toyota mowed over a woman crossing the street and the jury said it wasn't the cars fault not a Toyota it would never accelerate by it's self. Bad press if this were any other car co. they would get it a 100 times worse than flawless co. is getting it. Go join the flawless co. forum you'll get a lot more Nissan bashing support there.
+1

ByPath
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Postby ByPath » Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:24 am

it's not about bashing, and it's not even about who owns a nissan or a toyota.

heck I own a nissan pathfinder so if there's anyone who can speak their mind then it would be me.

most of you who are somewhat offended have not experienced the the tranny-coolant and other typical problems that occur. Thank goodness I haven't experienced it, but then again my truck is CPO with additional WRAP preffered plus warranty coverage so I'm a bit relieved.

I would have gotten a 4runner if I knew what I know now, but it's too late.

I do like the tough style and performance of the r51 pathfinder over the 4runner, but if I could do it again I would do it differently.

check out carcomplaints.com and search out all the toyotas and nissans and hondas. The differences are clear.

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Tech
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Postby Tech » Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:38 am

you would just end up on some 4runner forum wishing you got a Nissan

don't be fooled - those websites don't know 20% of the studies that have to be done to investigate issues.

i could bore you with literally hundreds of issues from all manufacturers. All i'm saying is that they're all the same.


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