2006 PF, SE, 4WD, V-6, 4.0L, Auto....My emergency brake won't engage when the pedal is depressed. Tension is applied, feels like it's engaging but nothing locks the rear brakes.
Please advise how to perform a diagnostic, what to look for, where. Tips and advice is greatly appreciated.
2006 PF Emerg. Brake problem
Moderator: volvite
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
Your Pathy uses a "hat style" emergency brake setup, meaning it uses parking brake shoes applied against the inside hub of the rear brake rotor. It could just be out of adjustment. You'll need to inspect the brake cables under the vehicle and may have to remove the rear brake rotors to inspect the parking brake shoes.
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
2006 PF Em. Brake
Thank you for the informative response. Sounds like a job I can handle. Just a few follow up questions though; what about the ABS system?, anything I need to be aware of? Do you know where there may be some pics of the drum? What type of lubricant can be used on the system/drum/assembly? Can a helper operate the e brake pedal while I inspect the system while disassembled?
I have a similar problem. My pedal nearly goes all the way to the floor but it doesn't really lock the rear brake, it still allows the truck to roll slightly. Actually I think it is my fault. One time I started to drive off with the brake on. Immediately I realized and disengaged it and it hasn't been right since.
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
E Brake update
I pulled the left rear wheel the other day and on the face of the hub is a rubber plug with a slot in it. Pull the plug with a pair of pliers and spin the hub so that the exposed access hole (where the plug was) lines up at 6:00. Shine a flashlight into the hole and you should see an adjustment wheel. With a screw driver you can move the adjustment wheel up (pry in an upward motion, top to bottom), to tighten the shoes. Do this until the hub resists spinning and adjust accordingly. Remember more resistance isn't necessarily better, you can warp the rotor if too much resistance is applied to the e-brake. I adjusted mine until the hub was stiff but still spun when pushed. Put the wheel back on and do the other side. This worked for me, I really wanted to pull the disc rotor to expose the e-brake shoe assembly and clean everything before adjusting but time was a factor and the adjustment worked fine. E-brake works just fine now and someday I will pull the rotor to inspect further....Good Luck!
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
E-Brake adjustment
No, just have trans is neutral, front wheels chocked and no e-brake at all.
I had problems with my e-brake and after 6 trips to the local Nissan dealership they finally got it working correctly. Somehow on the 6th trip there and yelling at them several times, they found a second adjustment that could be made to get it working correctly.
The dealer was pretty good about taking it back to work on it (I only paid for labor the first trip) but it was a very frustrating time with the dealer. If you have the dealer fix it make sure to test it right away. One of the trips I had to take the service guy for a quick ride to a hill to prove that the brakes were not working. They tried to tell me that sitting on a hill with the e-brake on that it was ok to roll down the hill, yeah they gave me a rental car that night to work on it more the next day. The brake works fine now, just a royal pain to get it working correctly.
The dealer was pretty good about taking it back to work on it (I only paid for labor the first trip) but it was a very frustrating time with the dealer. If you have the dealer fix it make sure to test it right away. One of the trips I had to take the service guy for a quick ride to a hill to prove that the brakes were not working. They tried to tell me that sitting on a hill with the e-brake on that it was ok to roll down the hill, yeah they gave me a rental car that night to work on it more the next day. The brake works fine now, just a royal pain to get it working correctly.
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
2006 PF Emerg. rake issue
Thanks for the information, kind of explains why the pedal still goes all the way to the floor prior to engaging, even after the adjustment.
The secondary adjustment point is interesting. Do you know where this secondary adjustment location is or exactly what it is?
Mine is working, but like you said, if I put it in gear, the vehicle will move forward even while idling. Didn't seem to be working properly. The secondary adjustment would seem to be the likely culprit.
Please advise.
The secondary adjustment point is interesting. Do you know where this secondary adjustment location is or exactly what it is?
Mine is working, but like you said, if I put it in gear, the vehicle will move forward even while idling. Didn't seem to be working properly. The secondary adjustment would seem to be the likely culprit.
Please advise.
Not trying to be an a$$, but I don't think I've ever used my park brake. Maybe because we are on such flat land here, I can watch my dog run away for 3 days!
But seriously, with park on the trans, what does one need the park brake for?
And for clarification, it is just that, not an emergency brake.
t
But seriously, with park on the trans, what does one need the park brake for?
And for clarification, it is just that, not an emergency brake.
t
The emergency or parking brake is used to keep the load off of the transmission when you are stopped on an incline. You know that extra clunk that it takes to shift out of park? That goes away when you use the parking break.
@ rannunziato
I think the 2 adjustements that could be made were the cable tension and the mechanical star gear internal to the brake. The dealership was only adjusting the internal brake adjustment at first before the cable tension was adjusted to actually fix the brake.
@ rannunziato
I think the 2 adjustements that could be made were the cable tension and the mechanical star gear internal to the brake. The dealership was only adjusting the internal brake adjustment at first before the cable tension was adjusted to actually fix the brake.
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rannunziato
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:49 am
- Location: Aston, PA
Ebrake
Aha!!...makes sense, now if I can only locate the cable tension adjustment location....Does anyone know where this may be found?
Also, I use the ebrake on inclines to eliminate tension on the parking gear as well as when towing the camper. I have a travel trailer and when trying to hook up to the camper hitch on an incline can be a bitch. Also when parking at sites on an incline with 5K lbs. pushing or pulling on my parking gear can be a little uneasy.
Thanks for the info. Please advise as to how to adjust the cable tension.
Also, I use the ebrake on inclines to eliminate tension on the parking gear as well as when towing the camper. I have a travel trailer and when trying to hook up to the camper hitch on an incline can be a bitch. Also when parking at sites on an incline with 5K lbs. pushing or pulling on my parking gear can be a little uneasy.
Thanks for the info. Please advise as to how to adjust the cable tension.
I always felt that using the parking brake helps with avoiding putting unnecessary load on the transmission. My old driveway had a slight incline and if the car was parked with out the brake engaged it would not get into gear easily without a slight clunk. with the parking brake engaged it keeps the pressure of the trans and I don't get any sort of clunk.disallow wrote:Not trying to be an a$$, but I don't think I've ever used my park brake. Maybe because we are on such flat land here, I can watch my dog run away for 3 days!
But seriously, with park on the trans, what does one need the park brake for?
And for clarification, it is just that, not an emergency brake.
t
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