Camshaft Position Sensor and Crank Sensor??? Car didnt start

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GK1707
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Camshaft Position Sensor and Crank Sensor??? Car didnt start

Postby GK1707 » Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:13 pm

Ok so a few weeks ago i got a check engine light(forgot the code) it was for a camshaft position sensor, the right side to be exact. My pathfinder was cutting off on me intermittent at random times so I ordered both sides cam pos sensors and a crank sensor from Rock auto and had them installed. The two cam sensors are made by Delphi and the crank sensor is an Airtex. I had a local mechanic install the sensors.

Car stuttered and didnt start after the installed. Almost like it started but immediately cut off. He said the sensors were no good and that i needed genuine nissan sensors. He reinstalled the old sensors and the car started fine, he also told me to get oem ones from nissan.

My problem is that i think he may have messed up the new sensors accidentally during the install. Because i know for a fact that when i got them they were brand new. Just got the Pathy back today and hoping it doesnt cut off anymore.

Does our car only work with oem sensors or would these aftermarket ones work also because im sure i got the right sensors i just want to know why the car wouldnt start when they were installed.


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eieio
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Postby eieio » Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:05 pm

those would be some good questions for Delphi & Airtex
you might start out by contacting them directly
do the sensors appear to be damaged ("messed up") in any way?

GK1707
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Postby GK1707 » Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:12 pm

Nope the sensors still look new. I have some pics of them that i'll try to post up later.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:37 pm

Some aftermarket parts just don't seem to have a good history when it comes to Asian makes like Nissan and Toyota. I would be surprised if all three of the sensors were bad and Delphi is usually pretty good (I have had experiences with brand new Airtech fuel pumps being bad out of the box, so who knows?). In my experience as a Nissan tech, when it comes to any kind of ignition system components, sensors, starters and alternators, you are usually best to stick with genuine Nissan parts or an original equipment supplier for Nissan (ie NGK, Hitachi, etc.).

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daxnizmo
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Postby daxnizmo » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:28 pm

I'm going to bump this older thread because I'm having issues and think the cam sensor is the culprit. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Vehicle: 2006 Pathy SE

Symptoms:

- Pathy starts fine when cold
- Warms up, wants to die
- gave it gas to keep it from dieing and the VDC and SLIP light come on
- Limped home, turned it off, won't start till it cools down.
- Just turns over and over and over


The CEL is on but I can't make it uptown (parts store can run the code for me) in fear it may die and leave me stranded. From what I've gathered it could be the cam sensor located on the back of the passenger side head. It's getting too hot and loosing it's connection, basically?

What sux is the wife's Pathy is doing this crap and now my Z32 is spitting and sputtering BADLY! Can't have TWO broke down vehicles! LOL.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:00 pm

I keep a cheap OBD II code reader in my vehicle as it comes in handy for whenever my vehicle sets a code or someone's elses does. The one I got two years ago cost $65 from Walmart and it's definately been worth it.

Either of the cam sensors failing could cause a no start, but so could a lot of other things. With the VDC and SLIP lights on, I would be be leary of replacing cam sensors just on a gut feeling. There is a manual way to get DTC's from your vehicle:

ON BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM FUNCTION
When there is an open circuit on MIL circuit, the ECM cannot warn the driver by lighting up MIL when there is malfunction on engine control system.
Therefore, when electrical controlled throttle and part of ECM related diagnoses are continuously detected as NG for 5 trips, ECM warns the driver that engine control system malfunctions and MIL circuit is open by means of operating fail-safe function.

The fail-safe function also operates when above diagnoses except MIL circuit are detected and demands the driver to repair the malfunction.

Engine operating condition in fail-safe mode Engine speed will not rise more than 2,500 rpm due to the fuel cut

MIL Flashing Without DTC
When any SRT codes are not set, MIL may flash without DTC. For the details, refer to "How to Display SRT Status".

HOW TO SWITCH DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE

NOTE:

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has a malfunction.
Always ECM returns to Diagnostic Test Mode I after ignition switch is turned OFF.

How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)

Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds .
Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds .

Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fully release the accelerator pedal.

Wait 7 seconds , fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts blinking.

NOTE: Do not release the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds if MIL may start blinking on the halfway of this 10 seconds . This blinking is displaying SRT status and is continued for another 10 seconds . For the details, refer to "How to Set SRT Code".

Fully release the accelerator pedal. ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).




NOTE: Wait until the same DTC (or 1st trip DTC) appears to confirm all DTCs certainly.

How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)

Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results). Refer to "How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)".
Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds . The emission-related diagnostic information has been erased from the backup memory in the ECM.
Fully release the accelerator pedal, and confirm the DTC 0000 is displayed.


DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE II - SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS
In this mode, the DTC and 1st trip DTC are indicated by the number of blinks of the MIL as shown below. The DTC and 1st trip DTC are displayed at the same time. If the MIL does not illuminate in diagnostic test mode I (Malfunction warning), all displayed items are 1st trip DTCs. If only one code is displayed when the MIL illuminates in diagnostic test mode II (SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS), it is a DTC; if two or more codes are displayed, they may be either DTCs or 1st trip DTCs. DTC No. is same as that of 1st trip DTC. These unidentified codes can be identified by using the CONSULT-II or GST. A DTC will be used as an example for how to read a code.

A particular trouble code can be identified by the number of four-digit numeral flashes. The "zero" is indicated by the number of ten flashes. The "A" is indicated by the number of eleven flash. The length of time the 1,000th-digit numeral flashes on and off is 1.2 seconds consisting of an ON (0.6-second) - OFF (0.6-second) cycle.

The 100th-digit numeral and lower digit numerals consist of a 0.3-second ON and 0.3-second OFF cycle.

A change from one digit numeral to another occurs at an interval of 1.0-second OFF. In other words, the later numeral appears on the display 1.3 seconds after the former numeral has disappeared.

A change from one trouble code to another occurs at an interval of 1.8-second OFF.

In this way, all the detected malfunctions are classified by their DTC numbers. The DTC 0000 refers to no malfunction. (See "INDEX FOR DTC")

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daxnizmo
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Postby daxnizmo » Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:25 am

Crank sensor, code 0335. Stranded at O'Reillys right now but will get it home and start work. Is there a write up for changing it out? On my phone so my searching Sux. Oh what a day!!!

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:29 pm

The procedure for R&R is simple: unplug the harness, remove the 10mm head bolt, pull sensor out and reverse to install. Getting to it might be a little more difficult. It's located on the side of the oil pan on the right side of the vehicle. The pic ALLDATA shows is from the right side inner fender with the plastic inner fenderwell removed. Not sure how hard it is to get from the bottom.

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daxnizmo
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Postby daxnizmo » Sun Jul 29, 2012 7:30 pm

Fixed! It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Thanks for the help guys! I also found that my Z has some nasty bad gas and that's why it's running like crap. What a day!

TommyGun
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Postby TommyGun » Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:23 pm

My wife's pathfinder died as she was about to make a left hand turn at a stoplight. Scared the heck out of her. The SES light came on along with the SLIP and VDC lights. The car would not restart for a few minutes. Once it restarted she was able to limp it home. I researched the P0355 trouble code and bought a new crank shaft sensor. I had a hard time locating the correct sensor until a few people from this forum helped me out.

Hopefully the following information can help somebody else out.

The best way to reach the crank shaft position sensor on a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder is to remove the front passenger side tire. Take off the inner fender well. (some screws and clips, I ended up breaking all the cheap plastic clips...) The sensor is located on the side of the engine block to the left of the metal heat shield. On my car there was a black rubber boot that needed to be pulled back so I could view the sensor. There is one clip that you can push in with your thumb to pull the connector off the sensor. Then get a 10mm socket and remove the bolt and swap your sensor.

Good luck.

Megamanxv
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Postby Megamanxv » Wed Nov 23, 2016 10:46 pm

so today I changed the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor on my pathfinder...now when I start the car its on rough idle and wants to shut off... any ideas? These sensor are from the dealer so I don't know what's going...

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Nov 23, 2016 10:56 pm

You might need to have an idle air volume relearn procedure performed.


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