Scratched Crank During Seal Removal - Need to Replace?

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mrmees
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Scratched Crank During Seal Removal - Need to Replace?

Postby mrmees » Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:08 am

Was doing the teardown to replace the timing belt and water pump and had a little bit of a problem with the crank seal.

Original came out OK but when I was pressing in the new one it went about a quarter inch beyond the face. Fearing major problems, I decided to try and get the little SOB out.

That didn't go very well. After several hours of trying to pick and prod it out I was able to get a hold on the spring and ripped it out (if you're curious, that spring is about 3 feet long when uncoiled). During this process I managed to put a couple of nicks in the crank. :mad: Pictures are attached.

Is this likely to cause problems significant enough to merit replacing the crank? I'm at a stand-still currently until I get some advice on how to proceed. I don't mind a little oil leak now and then, but if it's going to be a major issue I'd like to know now before I put everything back together.

Thanks!

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:44 am

I do not have a ton of experience in this regard.

However, that being said, my gut says that depending on the depth of the scratches, I'd probably take them down with some emory paper and hope for the best. If they are bad enough, they will score any new seals you put in there, so that would be bad.

SMJ probably has more experience in this regard...

t

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:26 pm

With a small file (like a points file), you can file down the burrs carefully and then use a Redi-sleeve kit to repair the end of the crank. It's essentially a thin sleeve that slides over the sealing area of the crank with help of an installation tool (that comes in the kit) and provides a new sealing surface for the crank seal. You can order one from your local parts store or from online sites like Rockauto.com. They run about $20-25 online and about $30-$40 from parts stores. Either of these should work:

National #99157
Timken #KWK99157

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0337

mrmees
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Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:07 am

Postby mrmees » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:07 am

smj999smj wrote:With a small file (like a points file), you can file down the burrs carefully and then use a Redi-sleeve kit to repair the end of the crank. It's essentially a thin sleeve that slides over the sealing area of the crank with help of an installation tool (that comes in the kit) and provides a new sealing surface for the crank seal. You can order one from your local parts store or from online sites like Rockauto.com. They run about $20-25 online and about $30-$40 from parts stores. Either of these should work:

National #99157
Timken #KWK99157

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0337
Well, I picked up one of those and went to install it, but the collar is too long and is now sticking out about 3/16", preventing the crank from going back on.

Tried to slide it out and it looks like it's stuck. Any advice beyond tow the damn thing to the shop and let them figure it out?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Jun 05, 2013 4:05 pm

Looking at your last pic, it looks like there's a spring around the crank. Did you get that out before you tried to install the sleeve?


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