removal of rancho quicklift?

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iheartmypathy
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Location: Southern NH

removal of rancho quicklift?

Postby iheartmypathy » Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:04 am

ive been having a ton of issues trying to get this damn truck to drive normally. all of these issues are at highway speeds.
i had a huge shake in the front end after putting the 33s on, and after replacing the lower ball joint and a left rear control arm bushing and an alignment it seemed to drive a little better. shake resumed.
i then had the tires moved from front to back, then replaced the rear set, seemed better. shake resumed again. just had it aligned the other day, and they said that it was out of wack. he said that the camber and castor on the right side is pretty much rusted so he was unable to adjust it, so he compensated on the left side adjustment. UGH.
so now, it still is shaking (not the wheel, just the front end), and the body roll on the highway is effing ridiculous. know how a canoe rocks from side to side? yeah, just about like that, while going 65+mph. Its scary.

i dont know what to do anymore. should i take the quicklift coilovers out? I want a lift, but not at this expense.

PLEEEEASE HELP.


XVTer
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Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:24 am
Location: VT

Postby XVTer » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:34 am

PRG sells a lower bushing removal tool, lower delrin bushings, and the camber bolts. Unfortunately, the rusting of the lower bolts is pretty common. You'll need to cut out the bottom bolts, use the tool to remove the bushings and then reinstall with new bushings and cam bolts. Sometimes it'll require burning out the bottom bushings with a torch, which is extremely smokey, so do it in a well-ventilated area.

The bushings he has listed are for the Xterra, so you may want to call him to confirm fitment. Note that he is on the west coast and i always had better luck reaching him in the mornings.

When i lifted my Xterra, these products weren't available so i had to replace both lower control arms.

The new cam bolts should allow it to be aligned properly. I wouldn't take it to anyone you have before. It kind of sounds like when they aligned it the first time they saw the rusted bolts and figured that you wouldn't notice if it was out of line. Did they give you an alignment report?

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iheartmypathy
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Location: Southern NH

Postby iheartmypathy » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:56 am

Thanks man.

I did get an alignment report for the most recent one I had done.

XVTer
Posts: 117
Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:24 am
Location: VT

Postby XVTer » Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:32 am

No problem.

Good luck. Those bottom bolts seize inside of the control arm bushing sleeve and are a huge pain to separate withtout burning out the bushing. The problem with the removal tool is that you need to be able to get the bolt out of the bushing to use it. To top it off, the tabs on the frame which the control arms mount to aren't that rugged so it's easy to bend them. Just make sure they're straight when you go to put it back together.

It may be easier for you to find a used set of LCA's and have your rusted ones cut out so that the replacement will be quicker - I was without my truck for 3 days while I f'd with it. Check out Car-Part.com to see what you can find in local junkyards. If I have time later today I can look for you.

XVTer
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Location: VT

Postby XVTer » Mon Sep 30, 2013 5:49 am

...I just looked it up for you while I was on a conference call.

It looks like Herbert's Used Auto Parts in Goffstown has a pair of LCA's from a 2008 listed for $90/ea. Their number is listed as 1-800-499-3573

Heck of a lot cheaper than new.

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akley88
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Postby akley88 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:53 am

XVTer wrote:...I just looked it up for you while I was on a conference call.

It looks like Herbert's Used Auto Parts in Goffstown has a pair of LCA's from a 2008 listed for $90/ea. Their number is listed as 1-800-499-3573

Heck of a lot cheaper than new.
yeah i had a shop tell me LCA were 350 each cause no aftermarket company was making them.

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akley88
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Postby akley88 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 6:56 am

i had an issue with front end shake due to my tires and part of it was they didnt want to balance the tires with weights on the front of the wheel. Went back said that i didnt care if the weights were on the wheel face. i needed up to 10oz of weight on some wheels for proper balancing. After the adjustment the shake is gone. some tire shops will have issues balancing AT and MT tires above 33"

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iheartmypathy
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Location: Southern NH

Postby iheartmypathy » Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:02 pm

thanks all for the replies!!
i had my bro read thru the comments, and he will be doing the repairs for me :)


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