Radiator Coolant/Antifreeze Correct Level..??

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Rob J
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:25 am
Location: Washington State

Radiator Coolant/Antifreeze Correct Level..??

Postby Rob J » Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:34 pm

OK, unbelievably can not find good quick accurate answer to this simple question:
What's 2010 Pathfinder SE V6 CORRECT Recommended Radiator coolant level???
Usually when I have looked at the inside/top of OTHER cars radiators after removing rad cap. I always have notice green "Coolant or Antifreeze" in them, close to top of radiator neck/cap.
Now yesterday, performed routine check on my 2010 Pathfinder V6 56,000 M, with engine off remove radiator cap and....surprise....Coolant level it is at low Level...:-/ and as I leave rad cap open for few minutes and I'm inspecting around for leaks..: coolant dropped even lower..!!! :-O It dropped to were you can clearly see clean out expose aluminum metal (it seems) fins with holes lower than the aluminum metal. Seems "empty".
what the heck??!! Leak??!! :-/
I'm confused cause coolant Reservoir it is almost at max level (mid section of white yellowish container), AND engine has not never ever has over heated at all (while driving I always keep an eye on it). :-/
I did check coolant reservoir and only see green coolant and no AT oily reddish fluid or white milk stuff, etc in it or mixed in. Only see GREEN coolant so far inside coolant reservoir. Checked reservoir not only for coolant presence but also for contamination, because oh yes I did read in this site blogs &.. freaked out a little about Transmission fluid line "leaking inside radiator" :-O due to a defective Radiator version. I hope, I don't think at this point is that...also besides, no overheating, no AT oily fluid in coolant container, the truck shifts fine don't feel any ruff gear shifting, clunking, etc. It's driving & shifting pretty good smooth I think considering ~56,000 M. So far..
So please can someone answer this simple question above about Real manufacturer recommended Coolant LEVEL when engine it's cold and off??
Thanks!


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eieio
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Postby eieio » Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:26 pm

assuming there are no trapped air pockets in the system (heaters included), the radiator should be full up to the top, and the coolant reservoir should be filled to between the "MAX" and "MIN" levels, stamped onto the side of the reservoir.

Rob J
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:25 am
Location: Washington State

Postby Rob J » Wed Nov 13, 2013 3:02 pm

So knowing confirmed yesterday, that coolant reservoir is filled, it is indeed between "Min and Max" almost at MAX to be exact. Shouldn't this be enough?? Than, shouldn't coolant pull/push/expand/contract/get suck in (been reading post blogs here...:)) by radiator or reservoir, & hence don't need more "Coolant"??
I'm confused cause the same thing you mention I observed clearly yesterday on the side of coolant container and stopped me from adding more coolant...
If there is in fact; EXTRA COOLANT at hand right in the emergency what ever extra container which is supposed to automatically add more coolant to Radiator when is need it. :-/
Oh on last check last night and with engine running I did notice coolant reservoir depleting getting lower of coolant a little bit and refilling again, i guess it seems there is no clog and reservoir and radiator are "talking/communicating" lines connected.
Don't know what to do, If; my Pathy not overheating, should I add more coolant? cause I do have extra on the reservoir and it seems to be moving inside between Radiator and extra passenger side Container..
Just hope is not infamous Trani's tube crack inside radiator and coolant leaking into Transmission...:-O
Is there another accurate no so complicated way (do have a small metric wrench set that finally got me last night Oh and was surprised "Craftsman made in USA" quality most the other craftsman sets were you know...typical lower cheapo not as strong metal stuff lol) besides just checking for contaminant or AT oil inside coolant reservoir?? like mentioned before don't have AT slipping or ruff shifting. But I'm right before the 60,000 M mark and getting little worried Because I believe after that I have to pay ~2,500 co-payment to get Transmission replacement...ouch

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:17 pm

be sure that the radiator cap and recovery tank cap are in the right places! the radiator cap is a plain cap & gasket.
the recovery tank cap is the SPRING LOADED one.
be sure they are not swapped!
now:
if your coolant level is diminishing in either the radiator tank or the coolant reservoir, the coolant HAS to be going somewhere.
if there are no external leaks, and if there is no coolant in the transmission fluid, then the coolant is likely finding its' way into the system and purging out trapped air pockets.
as the air is purged, the coolant level will decrease.
many people have sped up this process by getting the front end up higher than the rear, remove both caps, adjust coolant level, adjust heater(s) to full hot, run the engine and add coolant as necessary as the level decreases.
rev the engine occasionally, and watch the temp guage.
all this having been said, you need to be SURE the coolant isn't getting into the transmission.

Rob J
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Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:25 am
Location: Washington State

Postby Rob J » Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:06 pm

Thanks for your response eieio!
When Checked yesterday and earlier this morning, Caps are indeed on the correct right places. Pressure spring loaded one at white yellowish coolant container & simple non spring only rubber one at Radiator.
Sorry my mistake I should have mentioned, coolant container when engine running, does deminish a little but IT ALSO replenishes REFILLS it self back up to almost MAX line level. I believe refill happens noticed after I shut off engine. So to me at surface it seems that hopefully may not be leaking into trany and vise versa coolant not sipping into Trany.
Right now seatting at waiting room of certified Toyota, Nissan, Lexus local family Mech shop. Mech guy that I trust a little. Yesterday late afternoon , Freaking Nissan Dealear Wants arrogantly told me: $"150.00 just for checking" :-O & yesterday I almost started a argument with them cause I walk out of dealer upset On the way out, I ask them: "Why do you charge $150 bucks if this may be A NISSAN CAUSED PROBLEM because of defective radiator! It does not make sense I pay that shit load of cash!!!" >:-/ I yelled in from of everyone. The price guy in his tall little desk was not so arrogant anymore but got all red, & tried to quite me down... Try to calm me down & really didn't offer any decent solution. Just walked out upset. I when got home last night wife notice I was all quiet. Cause this whole "tranny radiator shit" sorry.
So Cause I couldn't wait longer to get final answers and was getting little worry...right now as I wait writing this, local mech non dealer is doing a good check of system checking my tranny, performing the whole coolant system pressured test thing for internal leaks, etc.. Huff..

CPLTECH
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Postby CPLTECH » Wed Nov 13, 2013 6:38 pm

If this helps to calm you down, the warranty on the trans/rad issue was extended to 8yr/80,000 miles. So you have a few more miles yet to go before going ballistic.

NoCode
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Location: Virginia

Postby NoCode » Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:50 pm

I've had low coolant issues twice. Right after I purchased it w/30k mi on it the coolant was so low you couldn't see it in the radiator. Four yrs later I just found the same issue again. Oddly, overflow reservoir 2/3 full and it's never leaked coolant anywhere. I have done the bypass so all I can deduce is its leaked into the ATF tank at bottom of radiator but since it's bypassed it's not hurting anything. My next oil change I'll pull the bypass hose off the ATF portion of radiator and see if it runs out. If it's dry, then the mystery deepens.


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