The Nissan Path

First off, Hello!

My '07 Pathfinder has a ball joint that's getting a little lose. Nissan suggest replacing the whole control arm so I've got a couple of them on order (MOOG).

I was reading the service manual and it wants me to remove the axle. Is this really necessary? Just glancing at it, to me, it looks like if you support the knuckle you should be able to remove the control arm just fine...

Am I missing something?

K

I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the axle. The only reason you might have to is if you don't have enough room to remove the nut on the lower ball joint stud, but I believe you do have the room.

you shouldn't have to remove the axle. I was in there not too long ago doing a wheel bearing and I belive you have enough room to manipulate the control arm out without too much trouble. Only problem you might run into (depends on your location and of they salt the roads) is the bolts. Many people have problem with them seizing and they need to be cut out. Other then those two bolts, just use a heavy coat of PB blaster on the pinch bolt at the hub and you should be fine. Let us know if you have any issues. We have all been there at some point and can get your through the process

Also, iff you don't mind, can you post pictures of the moog
Replacement arm next to the stock. I have been curious about the quality, usually MOOG makes nice replacement parts. Thanks

Thanks guys.

I can post a picture when I get them.

What do you guys do to get the ball joint out of the knuckle (pinch)? Just loosing the bolt and give the knuckle a rap on the side?

I debating doing the shocks while I'm in there. I replaced all of them about 2 years ago, around 30k - 40k. The back ones are shot but I suspect trailering with it helped kill those. The fronts still seem fine, no bounce in them what so ever. I think I'm going to roll with them.

K

Yes, it's just a pinch bolt at the ball joint. Once you remove the bolt, you can use a pry bar to pop it out or try a Big hammer. Sometimes they can be stubborn but it will come out eventually. Make sure when you put everything back together give it a nice coat of anti-seize. All bolts and ball joint.

As far as the front shocks go, with 30-40k I wouldn't worry about them just yet. Maybe around 60k. The pathfinder is hard on its suspension, especially the rear. The rear shocks IMO should be replaced at 50k and at which point be upgraded to bilsteins (or similar, heavy duty) shocks. And if you tow I would suggest the airlift. the Airlift 1000 kit helps the rear out tremendously. Makes the shocks last longer and prevent bottoming out and sagging with added weight. You can search it's covered hundreds of times throughout the forum. You can always go a step further and get a stiffer rear spring which can be found at 4x4parts.com

Big friggin' hammer always worked for me!

smj999smj wrote:Big friggin' hammer always worked for me!

Kopeck, did you receive your parts? I'd love to see a pic. I think I am going to change my LCA's soon and I'm debating the moog replacements or buying OEM Nissan. The Nissan part is more then twice the cost so I'd love to stay with the moogs if you have a nice experience with them.

I have used Moog in the past and often found their stuff to be awesome.

Path-Less wrote:Kopeck, did you receive your parts? I'd love to see a pic. I think I am going to change my LCA's soon and I'm debating the moog replacements or buying OEM Nissan. The Nissan part is more then twice the cost so I'd love to stay with the moogs if you have a nice experience with them.

I have used Moog in the past and often found their stuff to be awesome.

I just got them last night. When I pull the LCAs I'll set them beside the new parts and snap a picture.

K

So, I would have taken a picture BUT I couldn't get the rear bolt out of the LCA to save my life. I tried everything I had on hand. I think I can cut the bolt with a cut off disk, which I was out of in the shop. I really need to invest in a set of torches. Many bad words escaped tonight...

The final bugger was I bumped the jack that was holding the knuckle/axle/etc and the axle pulled away from the final drive. Any tricks to getting that sucker back in? It's only out an inch or so but I can't get it back in.

K

Did you end up getting it in? I would suggest just cutting the bolt. That's what I was referencing in an earlier post in which they are often seized in those bushings. As for the axle it should just go back in, just make sure the splines are lined up. Rotate until it slides in.

If you did get it all Installed how is the arm? Did it fix your Problem? How was the quality of the part?

Sorry it took so long to get back to the post been out of town for the past few days. Hope U have the truck up and running.

Path-Less wrote:Did you end up getting it in? I would suggest just cutting the bolt. That's what I was referencing in an earlier post in which they are often seized in those bushings. As for the axle it should just go back in, just make sure the splines are lined up. Rotate until it slides in.

If you did get it all Installed how is the arm? Did it fix your Problem? How was the quality of the part?

Sorry it took so long to get back to the post been out of town for the past few days. Hope U have the truck up and running.

I got one in but it's been easily the most frustrating "small job" I've ever done.

I've tried to cut the bolts out but went though 7 bimetal blades to get 2.5 of the 4 bolts out. I just purchased some Diablo super duper lasts 20x longer blades to get the last bolt and a half out. At $10 ea I hope they work. Those bolts are hard...really, really hard.

I needed new pinch bolts and no one had them in stock so I had to order them. They're coming in tomorrow.

I also found out I needed a new wheel bearing, ordered both sides since I was in there and picked up new brake parts as well since one of the pads went and scored up the rotor pretty bad.

The good news...I got the axle back in. I couldn't do it with the hub/bearing in the knuckle but when I pulled the hub I could push straight on and it slipped back in. I did pull the whole thing out and cleaning the shaft off since it was sitting out for a bit.

The MOOG control arm looks like a nice part. It went it easily and other then I few tiny things you can't see the difference between the OEM and the MOOG (the differences were the amount of steel lapped over and welded on joints, the MOOG part had more). I'll still try and get you a picture. IMHO it's as good a part as came on the car and maybe better.

So, if those new blades make quick work of the last bolt I'll have both LCAs out. Putting it back together isn't hard, one side is more or less together, I just need the new pinch bolt and to install the new hub/bearing.

I hope the alignment is semi close, the tire shop is quite a distance away!

K

Better late then never!









Almost done. Heading out to put brakes on and then go for a test drive.

K

Thank you Kopeck! The part looks like an exact replica to OEM. Even the welds look near identical to OEM. Keep us updated on the alignment and the ride.

I may order two of these to replace mine. (I have a ballpoint just starting to leak some grease on the passenger side, so it's just a matter of time till it needs replacement. I may go ahead and replace the whole arms)

I really appreciate you taking the time and posting the pictures and discussing your repair and the troubles you encountered. These are a commonly replaced part.

MOOG, FTW!!!!