The Nissan Path

I've just spent a couple hours trying to find rear LCAs for my 2005 XE. There seems to be lots of fronts, but no rears.

Any suggestions (other than the dealer)? I'm in Vancouver, BC.

Also: When you folks have replaced the (forward) rear LCAs, did you also replace the (aft) spring seat arms as well? Or just the bushings on those?

...back end on the PF is pretty shaboogamoo over any bumps and nightmarish in a hard corner...

Rockauto.com

Ship to WA.

Like disallow says rockauto carries them.

Link (Under Suspension -> Control Arms -> search in the box "rear"):
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... de=1431465




screen shot:

Not sure why the hell I couldn't find that when I looked at rockauto, but ok. Thanks!

Well I got down to it last night. Already had the Path up on stands, garage cleared out so I could get to work, and two days' worth of Aero-Kroil (aircraft-quality version of PB Blaster, astonishingly good but probably massively carcinogenic).

Pulled the Rancho rear shocks out - that was really easy compared to removing the factory shocks to put them in. Anti-seize, my friends. Always and everywhere.

Removed the rear sway bar. That was fairly easy, but the end link nuts gave me some trouble because I couldn't get a wrench onto the link side where those little flats are, to stop the wrench just spinning the whole ball. Managed it with a big set of channel lock pliers (I am replacing the links so not worried about trashing them, fortunately).

Next removed the nuts for the LCA attachments, including the adjusting bolts, the regular bolts and the ball joint pinch bolts. Had to use a cheater bar to get them going, plus some extensions and weird approaches to some of the nuts, but mostly no problem. I was wishing for a hoist by this point because I'm really too old for this shit...

Next, tested the possibility of at least some of those bolts coming out peacefully. The regular bolts (not the adjusters) actually went ok... more Aero-Kroil, a bit of 3-lb hammer, a lot of ratcheting. One difficulty for those going to attempt this: The LCA wants to move out of position as you remove the bolts. That makes it harder and harder to remove the bolt, and damages it as you try to get it out. I think I am ok re-using the bolts, they are not badly damaged, but I will inspect more carefully and get new ones if it looks worse than I remember.

The adjuster bolts are NOT coming out. They are just straight up fused inside the bushings. I was not really surprised, but it meant that shit just got real...

Out comes the sawzall and the 4 super-duty-$9-each metal blades I bought just for this eventuality. It becomes rapidly apparent that you can't get a good angle on the bolts unless you cut clear through the LCA itself, close to the mounting point (this was demonstrated in another thread from the XTerra guys). I would also advise you to get 3" or 4" blades as well as the 8" jobs - 8 is too long for certain cuts. USE SAFETY GLASSES. Not even kidding, hot metal flies fucking everywhere.

Let me tell you, it is an unnatural act to saw through your suspension. I made sure of what I was about to cut frikkin' 5 times, and I STILL had the heart-stopping moment when I thought I had cut the wrong arm. But once you commit, it's frighteningly easy to saw through the LCA. Like 20 seconds, max. The saw blade will bind, probably, and it will probably be a total bitch to release it so you can finish the cut. I'm not sure of the solution there, maybe supporting it with a jack or blocks...

So now you can move the rest of the LCA out of the way. Ideally you would remove the ball joint and remove the LCA completely, but as it turns out that's easier said than done.

And now you go after the bolts, cutting on either side of the LCA bushing that is still trapped in the frame mount, between the frame mount and the LCA. Don't cut through the frame mount by accident. Like, that's really really a bad thing to do. And have at least 4 good blades on hand because those bolts and the bushing sleeves are fucking hard and will melt the blades. As it turns out, you can probably get away with cutting just the head end side of the bolt (the side with the calibrating washer). As long as you managed to get the nut off, cutting the head end should give you enough room to lever the remains of the bushing/LCA out of the frame mount.This saves time, effort and blades.

So this is where last night ended:
- Shocks removed.
- All nuts that need to come off removed.
- Sway bar removed (hint: leave the links attached to the LCA, because now's a good time to replace the sway bar bushings and links anyway)
- LCA inboard bolt removed (right side)
- LCA hacked through (right side)
- LCA adjuster bolt hacked out (right side)
- Pinch bolt for LCA ball joint removed
- Ball joint moved but not removed, because I can't get a hammer+drift on it due to ground clearance. I don't know exactly how the hell I am getting the ball joint out... I might need to buy a "pickle fork" which is essentially a giant pry bar with a forked end to on either side of the ball. Suggestions welcome on that.

So I am about a third of the way through the disassembly... maybe half because the lessons learned will make the left side faster, presumably. It was not exactly easy, but it was mostly not as hard as I worried it might be, and not as hard as the same sort of operation was on my old TR6 using a handheld hack saw (holy shit). I obviously am not afraid of this kind of job, and I do enjoy working on my vehicles and stuff, but honestly I was really wishing for a nice new vehicle that didn't need my attention. It's no fun when you HAVE to do the work. Although I am glad I am not paying someone else to do it.

New parts arrive this evening and Friday. I will add more, and also some pictures - totally forgot to use the camera last night.

Awesome write-up.

And shame on you Nissan for not equipping this thing with a solid axle from the factory!!!
This would all be totally unnecessary.

And yes, love Aero-Kroil, use it all the time at work.

One quick question about this process. I am in the middle of this job and stuck on the ball joint pinch bolt. I have the nut removed but can not get the bolt to budge. Is it threaded in to the knuckle or does it just slip out? Have hit it with a hammer but don't want to beat it too hard in case it is threaded. Thanks

Maybe not understanding, but either a ball joint removal tool or a pickle fork sounds like a necessity in your situation.

Sorry I will try to clarify. I am having trouble removing the pinch bolt that hold the ball joint in place. I would like know it the pinch bolt is actually treaded into knuckle or if is just inserted through. I have been able to remove the nut on the pinch bolt but have been able to remove the bolt. It does not seem like it should be treaded into the knuckle but just want be sure before I really beat on it with a hammer.

as far as i know it is not threaded. A balljoint removal tool or pickle fork will help you pop it out of the knuckle. I doubt wailing on it with a hammer will work.

I have tried that and it did not budge. Just need to spend more time on it. Thanks

I've had really good luck with this tool:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/u ... -p8355828e

Have you tried turning the nut around and screwing it back on the end. gives you more to work with when hammering. Also if you are replacing the nut & bolt it wont matter what damage you do to the nut or bolt.

I replaced a rear control arm and had a tough pinch bolt to remove, as well. I used a 1/2" drive air impact gun on it and worked the bolt back and forth after soaking it with rust penetrant until if finally started to turn and spin free. The, I just tapped it through with a hammer and punch. Then I had to use a big hammer to pound the control arm until the ball joint pulled all the way out of the knuckle.