The Nissan Path

I'm having an issue with my 2005 Pathfinder 4x4 LE rocking side to side way too easily. I just replaced the rear shocks and noticed a small change but it didn't fix it.

To expand on the specific issue, I can grab the roof rack and probably move the truck around 3 inches side to side. I also can rock back and forth in the driver seat while driving and literally sway the whole car back and forth.

Maybe this is a characteristic of the Pathfinder. I've had it for two years and the ride has always been rough but I'm trying to correct it now. The rear shocks were completely rusted out and needed replacement. My next thought was rear sway bars, but they looked fine and didn't have any give up and down and moved around the side to side easily. Anyone have any idea where to look next?

Hi Golfer2b,

I think the shocks just dampen the travel of the coils. I think most of the support comes from the coils. With that said, you may want to start looking into new coils/springs. But, I'm no expert, that's just my 2 cents.

Below is a good read.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspe ... t-they-do/

Thank You 1handle, I'll start taking a look at those next. They seemed ok but I'm sure with having crappy shocks in there for that long the springs took a beating.

If there is anything else you can think of just let me know, because I'm no expert at all!

I'd be looking for broken coil springs.

Also, check the condition of the sway bar links, and sway bars themselves.

I’ve gone through this the past year with my PF. I replaced springs as one was broke and had a lot of “tailwag†at highway speeds. Also replace sway bar links, make sure these are tight as one time the bolt was loose and you feel the difference in ride. New Monroe shocks which I chucked after 8 months and went with HD bilstein, then installed airlift 1000 now ride is a lot more solid. I also noticed that these PF s have a lot of sway when you rock them side to side but to improve ride go with HD bilstein and airlift 1000 bags. You’ll really notice a difference. I just think that independent rear suspension is kind of a Achilles heel with these years of PFs. Smj999 is a great contributor to this forum. Very helpful guy.

Swift1, Thanks for the reply. I went with the HD Bilsteins in the rear. The airlift and the front Shock/Strut assembly is next up on the list. I bought new sway bar links and from what I have read about testing the links(take a huge flat head screw driver and try to pry it up and down) they seem to be fine so I'll be taking those back for now, but will definitely check to see if the bolts are tight.

disallow - Appreciate the reply, is there a way to see if a coil spring is broken that isn't visually noticeable? I'm replacing the front because they seem to have a lot of play in them, but the rear I wanted to try to hold out hope that the air lift would work.

Thank you everyone for all of the help.

Hi G2b,
Maybe the perfect time to upgrade with a lift kit instead, if you're going to be upgrading your suspension anyway. If you do, be prepared to deal with the alignment issues with IRS.

I'm just trying to get this thing stable before I start lifting!

I just replaced the front sway bar links and shocks and springs, small improvement but still have the wobble back and forth.

It feels like it's coming from the front, any other suggestions? Maybe in the engine area?

Today I had the rear springs replaced with MOOGs and the ride feels a lot stiffer and I don't have to hear the springs with every minor bump and compared to the previous ride it feels like I have a new car. The reason I took it to a shop was to have the alignment done as well, but my rear control arm bushings are completely shot. They wanted about $650 to replace the whole control arm which apparently contains the bushings and you cannot replace those separately. Then they still have to do the alignment. It looks like I can get a replacement control arm for $48 a piece. Is there only one brand that makes them or is there an upgrade I can get? Is there an aftermarket bushing or are they welded into the control arm? Any help would be appreciated!

Hi G2b,
Superpro, outof Australia mfgs eccentric polyurethane bushings for rear UCAs, I have a set myself. These bushings allow for additional positioning of the cam bolts. The shop that installed the bushings had a hard time removing the OEMs because of the lip that holds the bushings onto the control arm. The bushings I bought were from 4x4parts.com. There are about 3 threads containing some info on the bushings in this forum. With that said, say you buy qty. 2 from moog at $40.00 per, then install at 2 hours @ $120 per hour + 1x 4wheel alignment @ $85, so that's a total of $490, less tax. The bushings, are @ $160 for qty. 4, 2 hours labor, and alignment = $485. The latter allows for later install of a lift, in case you ever feel like installing one. The bushings can be removed, the shop just needs to be smart enough to figure out the "how to" part.

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-22756999-rea ... hings.html
https://www.4x4parts.com/i-22756999-rea ... hings.html

1handle, I think your math may be a little off but I'm about 3 Bourbons deep right now. So forget the cost, your saying Moog(not sure if it's Moog) OEM control arm vs aftermarket bushings right? How easy is it to install the aftermarket? I see that you or some one in a previous thread had a sound of some a while after installing the aftermarket bushings? I'm just trying to weigh my options on whats the safest bet going forward as I don't really plan on giving it a lift at this point and I just want a solid daily driver that I can tow something once or twice a year and carry about 30 bags of mulch.

Appreciate the response!
Cheers

Hi G2b,
You're right my math was off, I added the wrong values. Safest bet, go and buy new control arms.