The Nissan Path

A 2008, V8, 4x4 in the process of change. Rancho and Airlifts being installed tomorrow! At this point I'm very happy with the stock suspension's feel on the road, but I was coming from an 08 Frontier. The stock Pathy is much smoother to me.

Plan is to add/modify:

Tires - installed:(added set of BFGoodrich A/T 285/65/18 ) Tight fit with mild rubbing with tight turns. I would say these are the largest I would recommend on the stock 19" rims, if you do not want to remove mud flaps or modify from stock body trim.

Lift/Level - Installed with Issues: Rancho 2" Level kit, XL9000 shocks on rear, and a set of AirLift 1000s. -(Update: Major Rear wheel Alignment issue, See below)

BDGT - installed: Easy Breezy to install, now testing. (on 8/6/13: 17.8mpg over 121 miles @ 70mph on flat road with CC.)

CAI - Researching: Most likely go with a sub-$200 model/brand, as I don't think CAI justify prices higher than that. * After some reading and looking I see the 2008, V8 already has a cold air intake "like" configuration with intake through the fender skirt. For now I staying with K&N in stock box.

Exhaust - installed: Magnaflow muffler and removed the resonator , added tip. No noticeable at highway speed, but sounds nice in traffic. Not as deep as I wanted, but classy tone.

Other: Weathertech mats/deflectors,Reese ball-mount.

Here are a few shots. I'm going to keep a photo log of the project at: http://www.geneinman.com/project-pathfinder


Stock: at dealer


Just Tires: BFGoodrich A/T 285/65/18


Exhaust, Tips & Weathertech trim:


Stock Suspension & BFGoodrich A/T 285/65/18

looks great!

while i like my "cold" air intake, i would say it's probably the most expensive "upgrade" that gives you the least results. it does at least add a little growl under the hood to match the upgraded muffler.

what length muffler did you go with, the 18" (down from oem 22in)? have you looked into do the cajun b pipes? it deletes the 2nd cats (they're after the o2 sensors) and is supposed to be bolt on. that's next on my list. it might give you the little bit more you're looking for in the exhaust tone.

did you do the bully dog before or after your tires? i did mine after, wish i would have toyed with it before doing tires, i bet i would have lit them up -all- the time.

while you may like the suspension ride ok, if you find the body roll is more than you like, check the sway bar bushings. i replaced mine (2 bolts per bushing, 4 bushings total for front and back, takes ~10 min per bar) and it made a WORLD of difference.

Looks great.
How bad is the rubbing with no lift? I want to do those same tires but I really do not want to lift it, I think it looks better without...

Without lift, wheel rub is very light. It only touches the front mudflaps at the very outside edge of the tire tread at 1/4 of a full turn. I thought about trimming a hair off the outside nobbies, but instead just drove it in circles (both ways) for about 5min in a parking lot, which wore down the spot enough (on mudflats not tires). I wouldn't hesitate to install these even without a lift. I don't do any hard 4 wheeling, but I have tested it on trails with 5-8inch ruts, and it was fine. If no lift, I would stay with stock rims. New rims with a shallower offset would most likely rub more. Back tires have no rub at all.

Unfortunately I added the tires 24 hours after I bought Pathy, then BDGT later that week. I too wish I had tested BDGT on stock tires to see the difference. With tires I run 1750rpm at 70mph. Had to adjust BDGT's speedo +9% to have accurate MPH readout.

On Magnaflow, I went with 22" (was only one in stock at shop) with 2.5 inlet and outlet. Reducer on both sides to fit stock 2.25 pipes. Sounds good, and will most likely be the final exhaust mod. I do.

Will check out those sway-bar bushings when it gets back tonight from lift. Has 95k miles so I'm sure they have wear. But as I say, I'm happy with the current stock ride.. Thanks for the tip.

Outside tread edge, slightly touches mud flap:
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Looks good, and sounds like fun. I need to get me a BDGT. What model did you get? I like that you can adjust the speedo.

Well I just got back from getting the Rancho lift/lvl kit installed, and I couldn't be more upset!

The front kit seems to have went well, lifting the front almost exactly 2" and shop was able to get a good front-end alignment.

But the rear is a mess. The Rancho spacers also lifted the rear 2", but the rear Toe is at -1.74 on both rear wheels. The cam bolts on the rear are at Max adjustment. Has anyone else had such a negative Toe-out?? The Camber on both rear wheels is fine, but the toe-out is way off. On the ride home I could not drive it above 60mph on the interstate without feeling unsafe. Rear end want to change lanes with the slightest Hwy speed turns.

My shop is going to call Rancho tomorrow to see there suggestions. But if I can get it close to normal, I may just need to remove the entire lift/lvl. Anyone have any experience with major Toe-out issues or have a suggestion that might HELP?

it seems either people have a horrible time with the rear, or they don't. sorry to hear you're one of those having issues.

instead of the spacers i just replaced the rear springs with the 2in lift ones from 4x4parts.com. it was part of their deluxe suspension package (not sure if it's back on their website yet or not). can't remember if their medium or heavy duty springs, but i'd guess probably just medium. their spring was actually slightly shorter than oem, but since it was wound more it didn't sink when you apply weight, so i gained like 1.75in i think. while i've heard "you're really close to maxing out", i've yet to have any rear alignment problems.

i've heard OME springs can make or break your rear alignment as well. nothing against OME, i've heard great things about them in general. our pathfinders are just finicky

Thanks Doc, I beginning to think it is a rear bushing issue. I do agree that the rear spring (OME or replacement) may effect the ride. But it shouldn't effect the alignment (as I understand it), since they both raise the suspension 1.75", via the spring. But I will look into that.

I found this older thread, (http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... 2969#32969) and it suggest that bad bushings might be the cause. If the bushings are rusted, swollen, or such, it may not be allowing the cam bolts to move the lower link outward (which is what I need to get rid of the neg-Toe). I suspect my rear alignment has never been changed since it left the factory, as it had stock size tires and original shocks when I bought it. I suspect they are frozen in place, regardless of Cam bolt position. It has 95k miles.

I'm going to try and find an import shop to look at it. The guys at 4WheelParts in my area mainly work on American trucks. Also, some people seem to have a lot of trouble removing the old bushings if they are badly swollen & rusted, so maybe I will get new lower links with bushings.. it looks like they run about $90 for each link. I'll also do the sway bar bushings you suggested in last post.

Thanks!

Not sure of this would work for the rear but
http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product ... hing-tool/

The best tools in the world won't help a bad mechanic. *Fixed*

Well after spending half the night researching rear alignment issues. And getting no feedback from 4WheelParts' call into Rancho, I decided to pop into my local "Used Tire/Taco Stand" to see if I could figure it out. It's not the most sophisticated place in ambiance or equipment, but I have used them before... one of our many basic Mexican tire stores here in Texas. Plus no "off limits" shop floor here. I can feel free to roll up my sleeves and get involved.

My Taco shop does alignments, but they are not setup for 4X4 rear alignments. So we went old school, using a torpedo level and a tape measure on the rear. Long story short... I'm riding like a dream!!... and only took us about 25min to complete. So apparently the guys at 4WheelParts are able to measure accurately with their laser guided, 4X4, simultaneous, alignment tool. But their ASE Cert Mechanic had no clue as to which cam bolts effected which plane of the wheel geometry?? And more surprising, apparently couldn't figure it out by adjusting and watching what changed. Proves my theory that "parts changers" with little or no troubleshooting abilities dominate the big store retail shops.

Anyway, all seems good now. No more squirrelly lane changes at +40mph. Ran straight and true at +80mph yesterday. I'll most likely bring it to a more sophisticated shop to check the actual alignment specs in about 1000 miles, after I had a chance to fine tune the Rancho shocks, AirLifts and watch the tire wear. One thing I had to do was remove the front mud flaps after the lift. The very slight rub I was having while turning with the 285/65/18 tires on stock rims, got a little worse after the 2" lift. Not bad but better without the flaps.

Here is a quick photo after the lift. In this shot the rear is about 1" higher than the front, but I filled my AirLifts to Max 35psi last night to insure I didn't have a leak or seeping overnight. As of now it seems to run as smooth as stock with Ranchos set to #4 and Airlifts at 15psi on surface streets and the interstate. Next on my list, replace all the sway bar bushings, doctahjones suggested. Mine don't look that bad, but they are definitely gaping at the split. The new OME sway bar bushings have a better split placement that avoid separation.

Thanks all for the recommendations.

NmexMAX wrote:Looks good, and sounds like fun. I need to get me a BDGT. What model did you get? I like that you can adjust the speedo.

To be clear, BDGT allows you to adjust it's own internal speedo readout , not the 2008 Pathy's mechanical dash speedo.

she looks nice and beefy. i avoid big box auto parts installers due to them hiring just about anyone.

good to hear it got fixed!

sounds alot like the problem i had with my wrangler. was getting a nice shimmy up front (had already corrected my death wobble), but it would happen randomly between 60-70mph. after searching for where the damn wobble came from, my local 4wheelparts guy suggested re-balancing the tires. no way it could be that, but i was going to be painting my oem rims so i needed it done after taking the weights off to paint.

and i'll be damned. no more shimmy at all after the re-balance at a different taco shop (they're up here too, love using them for tire swaps/etc). smooth as can be, up till about 80-85 (which i don't take the jeep up to, was just doing it to test). and now that i'm on different rims it's the same deal. no shimmy at all.


anyway, back to your pathy. on taking off the mud flaps, you may find you'll be putting them back on soon. i had mine off for a bit, but found the rocks and subsequent dirty water that would constantly show up on the sides (and mine's white so -everything- shows) to be more annoying than the rub. you can try the heat gun mod, or just wait about 2-3 months or so. the tires will eventually start to wear, and you'll -just- clear. i -barely- get any frame rub now at full steering lock, and i get no mud flap rub.


and that grey sure does look sharp!

oh yeah, and here was my write up on the tire swap. shows the rub and the things i did to get rid of it

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=7722

Thanks Guys... Yea,I think it's coming into focus. I passed on a few 2008-2012 Pathys because they were not gray. Almost bought a black one, but you know how it is when you have an image in your mind. I think I'll call it Brute.

doctahjones, you may be right about putting the flaps back after a little tire wear. Your link was very good, and is giving me an idea. Not complete in my head yet.. but, it involes using the OME flaps as a template for something custom. Kitchen/garage custom.. It looks like yours was a Texan at one point.

Here is what I got back in less than 24hrs from Rancho... Still nothing from the 4WheelParts, the installer. Although I think I have it fixed, I thought it would be good to post Rancho's suggestions for anyone else having rear alignment issues after installing rear spring spacers...

Gene,

Thank you for contacting Rancho Suspension. You may want to check the orientation of the rear spring. You should have made alignment reference marks on the spring and axle before disassembly, and then aligned these marks when reinstalling the spring to the spring perch. The other thing you can look at is the torque specs on the rear trailing arms. If those were torqued with the truck in the air, you will want to loosen those back up with the truck on the ground and re-torque to spec. Suspension may be binding, therefore, won't allow the alignment to come back to spec.

For further questions or assistance, please contact technical assistance at 734-384-7804 M - F 8:30am - 5:30pm EST.

Rancho Team Member,

Rob

BigEz wrote:. The new OME sway bar bushings have a better split placement that avoid separation.


To be clear, BDGT allows you to adjust it's own internal speedo readout , not the 2008 Pathy's mechanical dash speedo.


It looks like yours was a Texan at one point.

fyi, the factory replacement bushings also have the updated split placement


on the bully dog, i did some tests with that speedo correction...if you change the setting while the car is running, then yes your speedo and bd will be different. but if you leave the setting and restart your car, the speedo will match the new bd setting. not sure how it affects the odometer though, if it will then use the displayed speed for calc'ing distance or not. this is why i don't use the speedo correction, so my truck won't register as many miles i mean it's only like a 7% difference, but that adds up over time right?

and yup, lived in texas my whole life up until the end of feb this year. got tired of the texas heat so i moved my wife and i up to the denver area. low humidity is -great-.