The Nissan Path

So my 05 4wd with just shy of 106k mileshas started slipping when it tries to go into 2nd from 1st it's just recently started and only when it's hot and after driving for a while if I let it sit and cool down it's back to normal.. I don't know of any previous service that's ever been done but I'm thinking and hoping that a tranny flush and fill will help solve the problem. I've checked mtt fluid and it seems broken down and no signs of water seepage and yes I've done my radiator bypass lol also what fluid should i use oem Nissan or can I use a differentbranded I hate that nissan is like 8 bucks a qt

Castrol Multi-import ATF is actually the same thing as Nissan Type "J" ATF, as Castrol supplies the ATF to Nissan. Most synthetic ATF's will be compatible with Nissan Types "D," "J," "S," and "K" ATF's, but make sure you check and be sure it states it's recommended for use in Nissan Type J or Type S applications. Personally, I've been using Valvoline Maxlife ATF in both a 2006 LE and 2008 LE and it's been working just fine. I pick it up in a 1-gallon jug from Advance Auto Parts. I also use it in the transfer cases.

I too have had good luck with the Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Check your ATF to make sure it's not burned. If you're getting slipping after it gets up to temp it might just need a drain and fill to replace the cooked fluid.

When you did the bypass did you add another cooler?

No I haven't added another cooler yet I'm planning to but funds are tight andn Indonesia pull and she very rarely does anything off road. What's the best way to change it drop the pan or to pull the hoses apart and run it through the gears replacing it in small steps

I pulled the hoses where I did the bypass and let it pump it out, adding a little fluid at a time until it looked better. It more or less dilutes the old atf with new. If you're interested in seeing if there's more to it than old fluid you might want to drop the pan and see what's going on inside. That's assuming you know what to look for. Personally, I wouldn't know what to look for short of sludge or metal particulate.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks I'll be doing the change this weekend I'll keep y'all updated do you remember how much you used?

I used a couple of gallons. It was enough to cycle through and give it the bright red coloration. It's not quite the 10 7/8 qt capacity but I figure it was enough to dilute and replace most of the old fluid.

Your symptoms sound a lot like old burnt fluid. If it doesn't do it when the car is cold but rather when the car has been running for a while where the fluid gets warm, most likely you will benefit from a full fluid change as the others have said.

Id like to add... never do a flush to an auto transmission unless its already done and you're looking for a last savior.

As an old honda mechanic i have seen some shot auto transmissions. I would recommend the 3 times drain and fill method. What this means is drain refill, drive 10 miles (enough to cycle the fluid and let it mix with the old) then drain again and repeat. By the end of the 3x drain and fill u should be around 88%+/- (i may be wrong on exact amount but its close to 90%) The reason we just recommend the 3x and not 4x or more is the cost to fluid benefit isn't warranted after 3 times.

My v8 pathfinders auto transmission uses almost exactly 4 quarts on a single drain and fill. So I buy 12 quarts for the full 3x method.

I hope this wasn't confusing... If so let me know and ill explain further.

Are y'all using the maxlife that's in the red bottle cause what I've found says dexron/mercon

That's the stuff. The back lists all the compatibility. 5th bullet point: Nissan/Infiniti matic-D, matic-J, matic-K, matic-S.

Yea I saw that after doing some more research last night

http://imgur.com/XKoXBih

There's a comparison from what was in it to the new fluid

That's the first change about to do the second in a few minutes