The Nissan Path

Hey guys, I'm thinking about buying this pathfinder and want yall's thoughts because it's a higher mileage vehicle.

Before we get started let's talk about what it is going to be used for. Budget is $2k-$3k for tow vehicle. It's going to be used to tow a boat 15 miles back and forth on the weekends. Trailer + Boat is about 4500 lbs. I'd expect a few times a year we'd take it on a trip to the beach (with boat, 140 miles one way) or mountains (300ish miles).

2005 Pathfinder
190k miles, clean title, Auto, 2wd, V6. 4.0L, Engine is good, Transmission is good, has scuffs on the interior and paint is peeled on the hood pretty and front fenders.

Negotiated price: $3,000!


How good are the drivetrains on these? I read some things that scared me about leaks into the transmission. What are your thoughts on the towing reliability of a vehicle with this many miles. I'm fine with an occasional breakdown, but don't want to be replacing the transmission or engine.



As a background,
I DD a prius. I hate it but it's practically free to drive and maintain. I've owned a 04 frontier that went to 190k without anything other than normal maintenance (I still miss it). My mother has an 07 xterra with 227k with no issues which is the same vehicle but shorter wheelbase and diff suspension setup.

Also, what should I do if I look at the transmission fluid and see that some coolant has made it inside? Should I walk away, do a full flush and not worry about it or would it already have exploded by now?

Thanks for helping the noob here.

I think for the purpose you are looking at its perfect.

If the rad hasn't been replaced, do the bypass, or replace the rad. This will help you avoid the SMOD.

Also, you can check the transfluid for quality, you need a 10mm socket or wrench to open the dipstick, check for creaminess. If you see white, back away slowly, then run!

The engine, itself, is good...but some develop a whine due to the upper timing chains cutting into the tensioner faces, which is a pretty big job. When it occurs, it sounds like a power steering pump whine (at least to me, anyway). If it doesn't have them already, Airlift 1000 air bags are a must.

disallow wrote:I think for the purpose you are looking at its perfect.

If the rad hasn't been replaced, do the bypass, or replace the rad. This will help you avoid the SMOD.

Also, you can check the transfluid for quality, you need a 10mm socket or wrench to open the dipstick, check for creaminess. If you see white, back away slowly, then run!

Thanks. I will definitely end up doing that if all is good. I'll have to dig up a few tutorials and figure what is the best bang for your buck, replacing it or doing the bypass.

smj999smj wrote:The engine, itself, is good...but some develop a whine due to the upper timing chains cutting into the tensioner faces, which is a pretty big job. When it occurs, it sounds like a power steering pump whine (at least to me, anyway). If it doesn't have them already, Airlift 1000 air bags are a must.

Thanks. I will be on the lookout for a whine.

Anything else I should be concerned with?

Well, the bypass doesn't cost you anything, so, I guess you could say it's the best "bang for the buck." That said, aftermarket radiators can be had for under a hundred bucks and since you plan on towing, why not just replace it and keep intact the radiator's trans cooler? You're probably due to service the engine coolant, anyway!