The Nissan Path

My dad and I are going to change a bunch of fluids before I go cross country with a travel trailer so I just have a couple questions I couldn't find in the owners/service manual or searching here/the net.

I have a 2006 Pathfinder LE 6 cyl with 80,000 miles. I'll be going cross country for 1-2 years with the trailer in tow. Questions:

1. My dad wants to change coolant, rear differential oil, transfer case oil, trans fluid and power steering fluid. Anything else fluid-wise that you'd change?

2. Is the rear differential c200 or m226?

3. For trans fluid, would you go matic s or comparable mobile 1?

Anything else you'd suggest I do is welcome!

Thanks

For differential oil, I would go with full-synthetic, 75W90 gear oil in the front and back. I usually use Walmart's Supertech full-synthetic gear oil or Mobil One. IIRC, you'll need about 5 quarts to cover both diffs. You'll need a 10mm hex socket for the drain plugs and, like the transfer case, use aluminum crush washers. To do both diffs and the transfer case, you'll need 6 washers, Nissan P/N 11026-4N200. I would highly recommend you get a fluid transfer pump, as it will make filling the diffs and the transfer case much easier. You can get them at Harbor Freight for just a few dollars:

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use- ... 66418.html

The LE has the AUTO mode transfer case, which takes a lot more fluid than the manual transfer cases used on other models. It'll take about 5 quarts and it specs Nissan Type "D" ATF or Dexron III/Mercon. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in the transfer case, which is a full-synthetic ATF that is compatible with Nissan-matic Type "D," "J" and "S." You can use it in your Pathy's auto transmission, transfer case and even in your P/S system (do not use "clear" P/S fluid sold in stores; you need to use auto transmission fluid). The best thing about Valvoline Maxlife ATF is that you can usually find it on one gallon jugs at Walmart for $17.50, which is far less expensive that Nissan-matic "S" at approximately $9/quart. So, if you are draining and filling the transmission, you'll need one gallon. If you are going to flush your P/S system, 2 quarts should be plenty. So, add it all together, you'll need about 11 quarts of Maxlife (I would just get 3 one gallon jugs).
The transmission drain plug uses the same copper crush gasket as the engine oil pan plug, Nissan 11026-01M02, which you can purchase on Ebay in bags or 5, 10, 20, or however many you want, at a cheaper price than the dealer. I believe the torque spec on all of the drain plugs is about 26 ft/lbs. I would also get a can of brake cleaner to clean up any residual oil when you get done servicing those items.
Engine coolant from the factory is Nissan green, which is the same as Pentosin Permafrost A2 green anti-freeze on the aftermarket, which Rockauto.com sells and you can get it on Ebay, if you want to stick with the original stuff. That's what I use in my Nissans, but, if you want to go with less expensive Prestone or Supertech "one color works will all" anti-freeze or any conventional green anti-freeze, like Peak, it'll work just fine. If you use concentrated anti-freeze, mix with distilled water, which sells at Walmart for less than a dollar.

You can download an owner's manual for free from the knowledge base at NissanHelp.com. You can also get technical service bulletins and factory service manual chapters (some of them, anyway):

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/local_li ... =10&page=2

If you don't have air bags installed in the rear, already, I would highly suggest them. A set of Airlift 1000 air bags will be the best $80 you'll invest in your Pathfinder and they are easy to install. A lot of people also replace the rear shocks with Bilstein HD's for a better ride.
If you'll be putting over 25,000 miles during your trip, you might consider replacing your spark plugs, as they will be due at 105,000 miles. Get NGK #6240 laser platinums, which are the original equipment plug. Check you air filter and cabin air filter, the latter is due every 15,000 miles. You should also consider replacing the wiper blades, front and rear, if they have any significant time on them. If the serpentine belt is original, I would also replace that, too, with Bando #7PK2217. If there is any noise or play in the belt tensioner, replace that, as well. Plugs, belt and tensioner, filters and blades are all available at Rockauto, as well.
I believe you have the C200. The C200 has 8 cover bolts and the M226 has 12 cover bolts.

smj999smj wrote:For differential oil, I would go with full-synthetic, 75W90 gear oil in the front and back. I usually use Walmart's Supertech full-synthetic gear oil or Mobil One. IIRC, you'll need about 5 quarts to cover both diffs. You'll need a 10mm hex socket for the drain plugs and, like the transfer case, use aluminum crush washers. To do both diffs and the transfer case, you'll need 6 washers, Nissan P/N 11026-4N200. I would highly recommend you get a fluid transfer pump, as it will make filling the diffs and the transfer case much easier. You can get them at Harbor Freight for just a few dollars:

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use- ... 66418.html

The LE has the AUTO mode transfer case, which takes a lot more fluid than the manual transfer cases used on other models. It'll take about 5 quarts and it specs Nissan Type "D" ATF or Dexron III/Mercon. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in the transfer case, which is a full-synthetic ATF that is compatible with Nissan-matic Type "D," "J" and "S." You can use it in your Pathy's auto transmission, transfer case and even in your P/S system (do not use "clear" P/S fluid sold in stores; you need to use auto transmission fluid). The best thing about Valvoline Maxlife ATF is that you can usually find it on one gallon jugs at Walmart for $17.50, which is far less expensive that Nissan-matic "S" at approximately $9/quart. So, if you are draining and filling the transmission, you'll need one gallon. If you are going to flush your P/S system, 2 quarts should be plenty. So, add it all together, you'll need about 11 quarts of Maxlife (I would just get 3 one gallon jugs).
The transmission drain plug uses the same copper crush gasket as the engine oil pan plug, Nissan 11026-01M02, which you can purchase on Ebay in bags or 5, 10, 20, or however many you want, at a cheaper price than the dealer. I believe the torque spec on all of the drain plugs is about 26 ft/lbs. I would also get a can of brake cleaner to clean up any residual oil when you get done servicing those items.
Engine coolant from the factory is Nissan green, which is the same as Pentosin Permafrost A2 green anti-freeze on the aftermarket, which Rockauto.com sells and you can get it on Ebay, if you want to stick with the original stuff. That's what I use in my Nissans, but, if you want to go with less expensive Prestone or Supertech "one color works will all" anti-freeze or any conventional green anti-freeze, like Peak, it'll work just fine. If you use concentrated anti-freeze, mix with distilled water, which sells at Walmart for less than a dollar.

You can download an owner's manual for free from the knowledge base at NissanHelp.com. You can also get technical service bulletins and factory service manual chapters (some of them, anyway):

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/local_li ... =10&page=2

If you don't have air bags installed in the rear, already, I would highly suggest them. A set of Airlift 1000 air bags will be the best $80 you'll invest in your Pathfinder and they are easy to install. A lot of people also replace the rear shocks with Bilstein HD's for a better ride.
If you'll be putting over 25,000 miles during your trip, you might consider replacing your spark plugs, as they will be due at 105,000 miles. Get NGK #6240 laser platinums, which are the original equipment plug. Check you air filter and cabin air filter, the latter is due every 15,000 miles. You should also consider replacing the wiper blades, front and rear, if they have any significant time on them. If the serpentine belt is original, I would also replace that, too, with Bando #7PK2217. If there is any noise or play in the belt tensioner, replace that, as well. Plugs, belt and tensioner, filters and blades are all available at Rockauto, as well.
I believe you have the C200. The C200 has 8 cover bolts and the M226 has 12 cover bolts.

You sure this isn't my dad? Lol

He had the EXACT same list of maintenance items. unreal.

Thanks so much for all the info, I'll use it as a reference when buying everything.

Just one laymen's question on the fluid compatibility:

In cases when you are swapping alternative fluid for manufacturer recommended fluids, are there any risks there? I love not being rippd if I don't need to be, I just want to make sure an effort to save $100 today isn't going to cost me while driving through the Arizona or Nevada desert. I'm site you wouldn't have recommended it otherwise, but i just want to make sure these swaps are without risk

One last thing. ..

The service manual (which I found online, thank you) says 11 quarts of ATF. You mentioned a gallon here. What account for that difference in volume?

The rear differential in the V6 R51 is the R200 (almost identical to the C200k) and the front is the R180.

The M226 is a solid axle found in some Xterra and Frontier models.

The C200 is a different beast altogether but was used in many other Nissan vehicles.

06PhillyPathy wrote:One last thing. ..

The service manual (which I found online, thank you) says 11 quarts of ATF. You mentioned a gallon here. What account for that difference in volume?

You'll be doing a drain and fill on the transmission. When you drain it, only a gallon comes out. But over all, including the transmission and torque converter, there is 11qts in there. Only the portion in the drain pan comes out during the draining process.

If the fluid is really dark, you can do more than 1 drain and fill to help clean it up a little more.

disallow wrote:

06PhillyPathy wrote:One last thing. ..

The service manual (which I found online, thank you) says 11 quarts of ATF. You mentioned a gallon here. What account for that difference in volume?

You'll be doing a drain and fill on the transmission. When you drain it, only a gallon comes out. But over all, including the transmission and torque converter, there is 11qts in there. Only the portion in the drain pan comes out during the draining process.

If the fluid is really dark, you can do more than 1 drain and fill to help clean it up a little more.

My dad wants to do the full 11. Haha, figures. He wants to fill each gallon, run it to 180 degrees and dump. Repeat until clear

Well it really depends on what the fluid looks like. Technically you would need more than 11 quarts, actually you need infinite quarts... .

Here's why:

Every time you dump, you are dumping 4qts/11qts of the fluid or 36%.

After bringing it to temp and dumping again, it will be 4/11ths of 4/11ths, or 13%.

Next would be 5% of the original fluid, so 45% still original (36%x36%)

Next would be 2%, so 43% still original

for a total change of 56% of the original fluid actually came out, 43% is still the original fluid...

IMHO, I evaluate the color of the fluid that comes out first. If it is brown and murky, do a second drain and fill after driving around some.

But after the second I would leave it. And based on what I've seen, a single drain and fill should be fine. Remember what I tow, too!

Some people talk about doing a flush, but based on the feedback here, I wouldn't do that. There is potential to damage the transmission by doing this.

Nissan-matic "J" and "S" ATF always seems to drain looking dark brown in color. The first time I drained the ATF in my 2008, I had some real concerns when I looked at the fluid in a jug because I that the transmission was starting to break down due to the color. I serviced it with the Maxlife ATF (drain and fill) and then did it again, 30,000 miles later. Well, it had 64,000 miles on it the first time I serviced it and now it has almost 180,000 miles on it and it still shifts fine. Because I've been using the Maxlife ATF, the fluid on the dipstick now looks red in color rather than clear and the fluid drains out red instead of brown. I noticed the same thing on my 2006 model.
As far as problems using a non-Nissan labeled ATF, you won't have any. The factory fill is made by Castrol, so, if you want the original fill, you can use Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF. It's still cheaper than the Nissan ATF and sold by Walmart and most auto parts stores. The Japanese have higher standards for their ATF than the API, which had no standards for ATF. The Japanese auto manufacturers use ATF meeting the JASO-1A standards and we are now starting to see US manufacturers using fluids that meet that standard as well, such as GM's Dexron VI and Ford's Mercon LV. Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF and Valvoline Maxlife ATF, just like Nissan-matic "J" and "S" ATF, meet those standards. In fact, most if not all synthetic ATFs meet that standard and most will state they are recommended for use in Nissan-matic Type "D," "J," "S" and "K" applications, as well as for many other manufacturer's applications. Between the two R51 Pathy's that I have, I've logged almost 200,000 miles on Valvoline Maxlife ATF without a single issue. There are others on this forum that use it, too, and I've yet to hear of any issues caused by it. So, don't sweat it!
One thing we haven't discussed is your radiator. Do you still have your original radiator installed? You can identify it by a Calsonic sticker on the top tank which would have a part number of 21460-EA215, 21460-EA265 or 21460-EA200. If you have one of these radiators, you should bypass the integral trans cooler (using only the factory-installed, auxiliary cooler to cool the ATF), or, which would be my choice since you'll be towing and in the desert, replace the radiator. The original factory radiators in these vehicles have been prone to cooler failures which will push engine coolant into the trans fluid, ruining the automatic transmission in most cases. Aftermarket radiators, which can be found for as low as $50 on Ebay or around $100 on Rockauto, have not been prone to this problem. It's cheap insurance, IMO. Since you are servicing the coolant, anyway, it would make sense to do it now and before you have problems.

Don't forget your oil change if you are towing a camper it's best to run synthetic oil it will stay in grade and resist sheering under heat cycles better then conventional oil. If your R51 Pathy uses any oil and you are driving non stop bring several extra quarts with you and check it every now and then.

If I was driving many miles without many starts and stops I would run a quality synthetic with an oil filter rated for 10,000 miles and I would change it at 10,000 miles. If you put the miles on quick 10,000 miles would be no problem.

Thanks again guys, great info, woo be changing with Mobile 1 this weekend as well.

We're going to bypass the trans cooler this weekend. My dad owned and operated an auto parts store for 30 years (engineer) and did a ton of auto work himself. He has strong opinions about things and he all but forbids me to pay for a new radiator, he looks at the aux trans cooler as way larger than you'd expect on this engine and doesn't think I need to replace the minimal (his words) cooling the rad-trans cooler was producing.

Are there data that show a significant loss in cooling warranting a new radiator with this bypass?

For the most part, the radiator's integral cooler does more warming than cooling. It does a good job of maintaining the trans fluid temperature in the range of around 175 degrees F. It does, however, offer additional cooling in a case where the auxiliary cooler might not provide enough cooling, maybe in a case where it's heavily loaded and going up some steep mountain grades. It also provides heat to the fluid in cases where the vehicle may be in extremely cold temperature. Those that have monitored the fluid temperature have usually reported temps in the 150 degree range, which is a bit on the cool side, but shouldn't cause any damage to the trans. One thing to remember is that air-to-liquid coolers, like the auxiliary cooler, are not nearly as efficient as liquid-to-liquid coolers. That said, most do fine with using just the auxiliary cooler. For me, it just made sense to replace the radiators and keep the vehicle functioning as originally engineered and the lost cost of the aftermarket radiators made it a no-brainer. For the 2006, I paid $92 for an Ebay radiator about five years ago and I lucked out and got a Koyo radiator for $50 for the 2008 a couple of years ago. It was worth it for the piece of mind of not having to worry about the cooler.