The Nissan Path

Hey guys, just got the timing chain, guides, stat, water pump etc. replaced and seems to be running a tick warmer than I would like (before work performed). Can you post pics of your normal temps please? I am hearing around 190-200ish? Thanks. 1st post, hope that I didn't butcher it 2 bad! Tried attaching a pic, no luck![/img]

Mine runs about 180ish regardless of how bad I beat on it, though I have the CSF aluminum radiator. I'm sure someone else can jump in on here, but the 190 range sounds about right.

For pics, you'll have to use a 3rd part host. I personally use ImgBB --https://imgbb.com/-- for pics. Just choose the BBCode option after it's finished uploading. Photobucket seems popular, but I always see dead image placeholders regardless of what forum I'm on.

most of theimeif not cooler....


As hot as it gets.....

Floating a little, I think I need to get the air out.... Thanks again guys.

Ah, I remember when my gauge went that high. It was when I had air in the system. That and I had two pressure caps on when there should have only been 1 on the reservoir tank and not on the radiator itself.

wow 180 seems really low. does that affect your fuel economy?

Mine does 190-192F regular cruising.

When pulling the camper (28ft travel trailer = 5500lbs) temps are closer to 200, up to 210 when in stop and go traffic.

I am hearing that these can be a little hard to get the air out..... Any suggestions? Thanks again for your help, it is greatly appreciated! Also, what temp is it at the line just above my needle?

put the front end up on ramps, or the vehicle on an incline with the rad being the highest point. Run the vehicle at idle with the rad cap off, and keep filling until no more bubbles.

edbelfourno1 wrote: most of theimeif not cooler....


As hot as it gets.....

Floating a little, I think I need to get the air out.... Thanks again guys.

This def looks warm. looks like you are actually overheating due to air in system..

Rember the temp gauge is both dampened and delayed to not distract or worry drivers over minor and normal fluctuations.
Whenever you see your gauge move up in a noticable way an actual overheat is in starting.


PS:
Also if you live in a hot area an old trick is to thin out the mix just a tad by taking out a couple quarts and replacing with 1 bottle redline water wetter ( reduces cavitation at the water pump and in the cooling finss and so improves heat transfer) and fill up the rest with distilled water.

I used to run Nissans with aftermarktet superchargers in the summer.. and evne tho the stock rads were good decided to increase the heatcapacity and the abilioty to bleed off heat with this little trick.
Also racer trick to make a cooling system act a little bigger than it really is.

disallow wrote:put the front end up on ramps, or the vehicle on an incline with the rad being the highest point. Run the vehicle at idle with the rad cap off, and keep filling until no more bubbles.

If you are going to run it with the radiator cap off, you better remove the reservoir cap, too, or you are going to wind up with a big mess! I usually just top off the radiator cold, install the cap, fill the reservoir to the "MAX" fill line, install the cap, raise the front end as high as safely possible, start the engine and turn the front and rear heaters to the highest heat setting, rev the engine 2500-3000 RPM for about 10 minutes or longer until good heat comes out of the vents. Re-check the coolant level in reservoir.

Was informed that the aftermarket stat was bad, went back with a factory stat..... Seems to be working. Thanks again guys![/img]