The Nissan Path

Followed the 'nipple bleed' method today for my Pathfinder.

Rigged up a pipe from the bleed nipple to the expansion bottle and started her up.
Put a block on the pedal to allow around 2000 rpm. slowly got hot.
The diesel's rad fan runs all the time on a clutch so is always cooling.

Left all the heater fans off until the temp gauge moved a bit, all seemed warmer.
Off again until running temp ( about 30 mins at standstill )

Loadsa bubbles in the pipe.

Put all back to normal and went for a ride and the heater seems loads hotter.

The temp gauge still drops to about quarter when truck left ticking over.

One thing I've noticed is the bottom rad hose stays cold. Google searches some say that's normal others point towards thermostat ??

Doesn't look to bad a job to get to ?? Then another bleed after.
Id 'tip' the car so engine block thermostat hole facing up so not to loose to much antifreeze?? and clamp the top hose.. Good idea?

Here's my spammy quick Youtube video

https://youtu.be/IMxVKSiJ2Jk

The extra tube was in an antifreeze bottle to syphon some of the fluid safely out as it warmed up and the expansion bottle filled up. Only once did i need to do this.

Great job!!
Thanks for the youtube link also.
maybe we should consider making it a sticky?

I’ve stickyied it 🤪

I’m going to look into changing the thermostat.
It’s been like it since I bought it last year and never
overheated or anything.
Have been sat in loads of traffic too, so might leave alone.

Even with the Gasoline/petrol engines air bubbles either overheat or no heat in the winter till you drive around for a while.

Have yet to successfully bleed. I think the key is getting the correct angle to force the hiccups, but also wondering if that little valve next to the brakes might be the culprit.

DallasPirate wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 16, 2021 12:30 pm

Have yet to successfully bleed. I think the key is getting the correct angle to force the hiccups, but also wondering if that little valve next to the brakes might be the culprit.

That's not a valve, but a heater pump. It helps push the coolant through the heater core. I have heard of a couple of them failing. You can find them at Rockauto under the water pump listings. I've posted it a number of times, but here's what I do:

Top off the coolant in the radiator and fill the reservoir to the "MAX" fill line. Jack up the front of the vehicle as high and as safely as possible (you could also drive the front onto a set of ramps or park uphill). Start the engine and turn the front and rear heaters (as applies) to the hottest temperature setting. Run the engine at 2500-3000 RPM for at least ten minutes, or longer, if needed, until hot air (approx. 140 degrees F.) comes out of the heater vents. Shut off the vehicle and lower. When the engine is cold, top off the coolant in the radiator and to the MAX line on the reservoir, as necessary. Make sure to not mix up the radiator and reservoir caps; the radiator cap does NOT have a spring on it and the reservoir cap does, as the reservoir is the pressure cap on the system.