The Nissan Path

I have an '06 Pathy with 177k, bought it with 169k. After being astonished at its ability to obtain full oil pressure before I even started it, I decided perhaps I should replace the oil pressure sender. This turned out to be a bad move, because I then discovered that the oil pressure was not in fact pegged out H at all times, but actually dipped low enough to set off the light at idle when warmed up.

Suspecting the typical oil galley gasket leak, and not knowing if the timing set had ever been replaced, I did some research and discovered the Concept Z oil galley gasket set (used to be available on Amazon, now I'm only seeing it on Ebay), and figured it was time to tear the front cover off to stuff that in there along with a full Cloyes timing set and Hitachi water pump (both from Rock Auto).

After getting the front cover off, I discovered more bad news. First observe the passenger side, which has a nice plastic guide on the secondary chain tensioner, and also that the intake cam has a shoulder on it for the cam gear.



Now have a look at the driver's side. The plastic guide on the secondary tensioner is gone, and looking at the nub it has deep enough grooves to tell me it has been driven some time like this. I found some pieces of the plastic guide in the area. It's also interesting to note that the tensioners are noticeably "brighter" than everything else, which tells me they have been replaced not too long ago.

More disturbingly, have a look at the end of the intake cam. The shoulder that centers the cam gear is sheared clean off. Bear in mind that it was running just fine before I took it apart besides the occasional low oil pressure at idle when warm. It certainly didn't act like it had jumped time, which is kind of amazing that it didn't. The sheared surface also shows no signs of rubbing, so apparently the cam gear bolt and pins were enough to keep everything where it should be. The fracture surface is rough enough that it probably served as a crude spline.



Checking around the only options I'm seeing for a cam is $605 for a complete set of stock 240/244 cams from the dealer, or a bit over $1200 for some 264/264 or 272/272 performance cams (for a 350Z) from Ebay.

With almost 180k on the clock I'm not feeling great about shelling out $600 or more for a set of new cams. I haven't called any boneyards yet, but unless you're lucky to find one of these in a u-pull-it yard, I'm guessing the way most go these days they don't like to part it down any lower than a complete head, if even that.

Anyone have a spare driver's side intake cam laying around? Otherwise given that it appeared to be working fine with the nose busted off I'm toying with the idea of tossing in the new parts I had planned on, cleaning it up, JB welding the sheared nose and crossing my fingers.

IMO, I think you are tempting disaster by trying to use J.B. Weld to repair the cam. J.B. is great stuff and has helped save my ass a couple of times, but a camshaft is not the place to be using it, especially on an interference type engine. The only way to repair that properly is to replace the cam. A used cam is an option; there has to be someone out there that has installed VQ35DE or aftermarket performance cams on a VQ40DE and has one lying around. Remember, you are not just limited to Pathfinders, as I'm almost certain they used the same cams in all VQ40DE engines, so you have a lot of Frontiers and Xterras out there, as well. ClubFrontier.org has a lot of members, so that would be one place to check. You could also try some of the Xterra forums or other Pathfinder forums. Keep in mind that the bucket tappets (lifters) are not all the same size; there are different sizes so one can adjust the valve clearance.

Rock Auto has remanufactured heads for a $416.89 + $125.00 core. They come with cams and lifters. I'd ask them about the damaged cam you'd be sending back but for a rebuilt head with cams, it's a pretty good price. Just an option.