2006 vs 2012 06 feels noticeably quicker?

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Ride2Live
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:17 am
Location: NorthEast Ohio

2006 vs 2012 06 feels noticeably quicker?

Postby Ride2Live » Mon May 04, 2020 7:05 am

Good morning!

Is my seat dino messed up or is my 06 pathfinder noticeably quicker than my 12?

I picked up a 2012LE with low miles a few months back in A1 condition with only 45k miles!

The one thing I noticed right off the bat is the 12 feels like its been castrated compared to my 06 even with 240k mi on it.

Did Nissan change the tune on the V6 and or gearing?

Thanks!
Pete


docwatson
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Postby docwatson » Mon May 04, 2020 7:24 am

05-07 had 3.36 rear end gears and 2008+ have 3.13.

I think you butt dyno is still within calibration

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon May 04, 2020 1:45 pm

2006 was rated at 270 HP and 2012 is rated at 266 HP, as well. Don't ask me why because I couldn't tell you!

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Tue May 05, 2020 4:03 am

smj999smj wrote:2006 was rated at 270 HP and 2012 is rated at 266 HP, as well. Don't ask me why because I couldn't tell you!
The way SAE calculates HP changed around that time.
For examples the Infiniti M45 went from 340 hp to 335 hp also without any actual changes in power output.

All power declaration in US market cars were changed.
It used to be that a DIN hp (euro - hp) was "more" than a US hp but since that change a US horsepower is slightly more than a DIN hp.

Ride2Live
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 9:17 am
Location: NorthEast Ohio

Postby Ride2Live » Tue May 05, 2020 5:49 am

OK I looked up some stuff and see that in addition to the gearing the HP is a bit different as well as TQ:
2006 - HP 270 TQ 291
2012 - HP 266 TQ 288

Are there any economical mods to increase say to HP300 TQ320ish? Hard to believe that the gearing difference mentioned above can make that much difference but...

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Swerve
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Postby Swerve » Sun May 24, 2020 9:38 am

Even my 01 R50 felt quicker with 305k km / 190k miles!

But my 11's performance isn't up to par either at 150k km/ 93k miles . It runs and drives nice but lacks some grunt. I have no check engine light but have a P0328 code stored for a knock sensor on one side. Cleared codes and it's still there so am having either the sensor or the harness to it changed as apparently sometimes a mouse gets in there and chews the harness. No way to tell until it gets opened up and inspected. So, I'm looking for a little power/more economy and I'm doing the following in this order:

Job 1:
Replace knock sensor or knock sensor's harness
Replace original from the factory spark plugs with same NGK Laser Iridium 93759 DILFR5A-11. Never been changed so far and it's due at 100k miles
Install the aftermarket XTP Intake Manifold Spacer everyone here recommends, as well as plenum silicone seals and any other gaskets around this while it's apart. Spark plus swap is a perfect time to do the XTP IMS install!

Job 2:
Replace original never been changed upstream O2 sensors with NTK O2s

I have no check engine light on, I guess because nothing is out of perhaps too wide a set of parameters to turn on the light. Others here have reported swapping out the upper O2s, the ones before the cats, made an instant improvement to economy. Makes sense to me so it's on my list of to-do's. Check out this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=5031&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30


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