The Nissan Path

Today I was driving and the Xterra stumbled.
The Xterra has the exact same powertrain as the V6 R51.

Loss of power for a moment (1-1.3 secs) and pushing the throttle harder seemed to have little effect until a moment later issue disappeared and power came back.
I was driving up a slight hill at the time.
Vehicle was fully warmed up.

The symptom was similar to a slipping transmission except that wasnt it, since the tranny wasnt slipping.

No codes lit.

Comments please?

Battery terminals all clean and making good contact? Take a multimeter and test negative to body ground (jiggle the cable a bit) and make sure there is no change in resistance).

I would take those connections off and clean them very well, if they haven't for awhile.

You'd be chasing a hundreds things if these are not perfect IMHO.

I'd hate to guess, but..

Initial thought/thinking was about a vacuum leak. That as you drive up a slight hill, there is a natural build in pressure, but a drop in pressure stalls it, and as soon as the engine goes off and the pressure build, it came back to life.

Thanks for the input. I think the battery is the easiest to check.
I'll do that.

The Xterra and Pathfinder have the same traction control AFAIK, but they feel different. Maybe it's the wheelbase. The VDC off button only changes the link to the steering, it will still kill your power for a moment if tires lose traction. Could you have lost traction just enough to make it use ABS or throttle down as a response? Sometimes the SLIP light doesn't show for real small spins.

bozoneX wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 07, 2022 9:54 pm

The Xterra and Pathfinder have the same traction control AFAIK, but they feel different. Maybe it's the wheelbase. The VDC off button only changes the link to the steering, it will still kill your power for a moment if tires lose traction. Could you have lost traction just enough to make it use ABS or throttle down as a response? Sometimes the SLIP light doesn't show for real small spins.

Hmm,
Good point.
But in this case I don't think I had any slip though ( am in florida on dry pavement in warm temps)
I parked the Xterra right now for a few days to enjoy my Pathfinder.
I tend to rotate them on a weekly basis, make sure I have it fully warmed up in some driving on the day of turn off and fully topped off and then I park it for a week and use the other.

So last week I had an engine stumble.
It fixed itself quickly but i have not forgotten it thought it as either a) dirty MAF or b) something more serious that will raise its ugly head later.

So now.. today.
It was not just a stumble but the car died at a light.
was able to restart but now has a check engine light. the "slip" light is on too, as is the "VBS off" light...

I will pull the code tomorrow.
Or even try to make it into a shop.

I will know more tomorrow

palmerwmd wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 14, 2022 5:48 pm

It was not just a stumble but the car died at a light.
was able to restart but now has a check engine light. the "slip" light is on too, as is the "VBS off" light...

Most serious engine codes will make the ECM quit sending an RPM signal to the CANbus, which in turn makes the ABS throw a C1130 and quit running the VDC. The C1130 will be derivative, it can just be erased after the engine problem is resolved and the ABS/slip lamps will go out. That sort of "intermittent crap-out" is most often from a bad cam or crank sensor, so hopefully you'll be back on the road without too much expense.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 14, 2022 6:42 pm

palmerwmd wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 14, 2022 5:48 pm

It was not just a stumble but the car died at a light.
was able to restart but now has a check engine light. the "slip" light is on too, as is the "VBS off" light...

That sort of "intermittent crap-out" is most often from a bad cam or crank sensor, so hopefully you'll be back on the road without too much expense.

That was my suspicion from living on the forums.

These parts need to be OEM Nissan not NAPA/autozone etc right?

Well, stay away from the Zone, but Hitachi, NTK and Denso make most of Nissan's OE Hall sensors, so they're all acceptable substitutes provided they're genuine. You want to avoid China-cheap and be aware of counterfeits, so known-reputable vendors like RockAuto are a much better idea than eBay.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 14, 2022 9:09 pm

Well, stay away from the Zone, but Hitachi, NTK and Denso make most of Nissan's OE Hall sensors, so they're all acceptable substitutes provided they're genuine. You want to avoid China-cheap and be aware of counterfeits, so known-reputable vendors like RockAuto are a much better idea than eBay.

Thanks!
I'll see if I can find a shop tomorrow morning that's open.
In the meantime I can drive my other SUV

PS: I cant be too much labor to put in those sensors can it?

Nope, they're all 1-screw R&R's. The CKP is accessed through the passenger wheel well, so the truck needs to be lifted. The CMP's are on the back of each head, awkward to reach but not difficult.

Code is read: So its Camshaft Position Sensor bank B.
To get a part from the trifecta of parts you mentioned (Hitachi) I need to wait until Monday .
I may do both sides but cost is not trivial so it might be just the one.

Interesting problem, with dead result.
Good that at least a solid code came in on this.

I'm surprised at the cost of these from Nissan ~100USD.
Rockauto HITACHI CPS0008/CPS0005 ~40USD is much more reasonable. OE Part as well!

Glad it gets sorted!

TooMuchControl wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 15, 2022 8:46 pm

Interesting problem, with dead result.
Good that at least a solid code came in on this.

I'm surprised at the cost of these from Nissan ~100USD.
Rockauto HITACHI CPS0008/CPS0005 ~40USD is much more reasonable. OE Part as well!

Glad it gets sorted!

This tells us what the markups are at the dealer, since Hitachi is the OEM part and Rock auto also has them marked up a bit.
On Monday I am off from work so I can afford to fit at the shop Yayy