The Nissan Path

finally did mine, on a '08 5.6L, 81k miles. i was going to replace the radiator, but for now i'll just do the bypass. really didn't take too long, probably 10 minutes of actual work, but i did have to go back to the store to get another connector. originally i had gotten the 3/8th double barbed connector, but i couldn't really get it on -all- the way. maybe some of you can but i couldn't. plus the clamps i got were too small. so i had to go back and get the 5/16th double barbed connector


so, parts i used:

-2x 3/8ths rubber cap (get the 5/16ths if you can though, the 3/8ths is a hair too big)
-4x 5/16-? clamps
-1x 5/16 double barbed plastic connector

tools:
-10mm & 12mm sockets (you can use a large phillips head instead of the 10mm)
-pliers to unclamp the factory clamps
-plastic bottle to catch the few drips from the hoses
-big piece of cardboard to put under to catch anything you don't catch with the bottle
-nitrile gloves (optional)

i used some big clamps i have to try to pinch off the hoses going to the radiator. i guess they did their job since i only got maybe 1/4oz of fluid out.



so what i did was pull one hose off the radiator (doesn't matter which one), throw the rubber cap on the radiator side (it might still drip a couple drips without the clamp on yet, but it's really just 1-2 drips, you're not going to flood the floor with fluid) and then drain the little bit of trans fluid in that hose into an empty water bottle, then put the new clamp and connector on that side of the the hose. then do the exact same for the other side. then tighten the clamps. i also then uncapped both sides of the radiator, put a bottle on one side and put an air compressor on the other to blow out anything that was left. there was barely anything in there.

all done:



i didn't zip tie it or anything, doesn't seem like it gets in the way/touches anything.



also, so i've never changed my own oil in the pathfinder (always had awesome deals back in texas just to have it done, $20 for reg and like $70 for mobil1), so when i changed it myself when i did the bypass i noticed this nifty little piece of metal under the oil filter that keeps the dripping (mostly) off the frame and sway bar:

No skid plates on yours? Or did you just take them off to do the bypass?

oh i took them off to do the bypass

I wouldn't worry too much about securing the lines then. They're well protected.

nice. I really should do this.

disallow wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about securing the lines then. They're well protected.

True, but they are not the best skid plates. Very thin if you ask me. I think a properly place rock would take them out quickly.

akley88 wrote:nice. I really should do this.

yeah, especially if you're above 80k. no more warranty at all after that to protect against this. not sure how nissan ext warranty would handle this if it failed. i'd rather just take the 15min of actual work and $8 worth of materials and guarantee that it won't fail (well, contaminate the trans anyway)

I would have to keep a close eye on those connections. I'm not a big fan of rubber hoses for transmission lines, particularly more than just a short run from the hard lines to the radiators. In fact I would rather see hard lines all the way in like many others use. Vibration on that line might be a factor so I would certainly inspect it regularly. This was my concern with doing the by-pass on the '08+. You end up with a longer piece of patched together lines vs just switching a couple existing connections.

I do agree that it's better than living with the possibility of contamination though. At least if a line comes loose you should notice before major damage takes place. I'd be concerned if others (i.e. my wife) were driving the car though.

Eliminating numerous connections is definitely a good idea. I had it few minor leaks in few diffent spots after bypassing my 2010. Even with screw-type clamps the oils would still seep out somehow. I ended up buying more transmission hose and just re-routed the lines altogether to eliminate all the connections. Keep an eye on any hoses that are vibrating and bouncing around, as them may develop small leaks overtime. Just look things over as you do oil changes to keep things in check.

As usual, great pics doctahjones Even though I'm still at 18k miles, I'm going to do this in the near future just for the peace of mind.


I've also never done my own oil change on my Pathy because my dealer gives me a great deal ... $20 for oil change with tire rotation.

FLiPMaRC wrote:As usual, great pics doctahjones


I've also never done my own oil change on my Pathy because my dealer gives me a great deal ... $20 for oil change with tire rotation.

thanks! and yeah i used to get those deals all the time in dallas, so i never changed it myself (i mean really i'd save what, like $1-2 if i did it myself? no thanks i'll have it done )

but now that i've moved i don't get squat for oil change deals. i did pay out the a$$ last time and had it done, mainly because it was cold and i didn't have a oil catcher and stuff. but being charged ~$90 for a change when it's ~$50 in parts (for mobil1), i'll do it myself for that.

Thanks doctah, need to do this ASAP. I guess I've just been waiting for you to do it first, I know how all your hot to's are always great info.

I have a mission for this weekend it looks like.

gee thanks!

added some super awesome graphics and text to the pics, and clarified my directions a little. it seems i can't describe and watch football at the same time...

Do 08's really need to be bypassed? I have an LE and my dealer says that they haven't seen any from that year with issues.

Bandy1080 wrote:Do 08's really need to be bypassed? I have an LE and my dealer says that they haven't seen any from that year with issues.

have you looked in the "fail" section?

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewforum.php?f=38


there's an '08 and a '10 listed that had the failure. if you can get your dealer to guarantee in writing that it wouldn't happen, then i'd say you're good to go without the bypass