The Nissan Path

Hey guys,

I tried replacing my front U-Joint this weekend and, as I was pressing the new U-joint in, it pushed the clip out on the other side, breaking the metal lip that holds the clip. Nice, I know.

The broken lip is on the smaller part that bolts to the front (not the larger propeller shaft). Unfortunately, they don't sell just that part and you have to buy the whole propeller shaft for $400.

I have options and wanted to get your thoughts:

1. JB Weld it. Even though it's only a tiny amount (rebuilding the lip that holds the clip), I'm not sure how this would affect the balance.

2. Order a new propeller shaft ($400) and get it balanced at a transmission shop.

3. Take it to the stealership and have them replace and balance the shaft.

I've never used the word "shaft" so much in one post!

damn that sucks. i can't remember and don't feel like searching, but why were you replacing the ujoint? were you getting vibrations/noise? how many miles are you at? just curious to see if that's something i'm going to have to do.....


personally for something of that nature, i'd either get a new one or hit up a junk yard, i wouldn't jb weld something like that. but again that's just my feeling as i don't like to mess around with things like that.

Yeah, I was stupid with this one. Come to think of it, the front drive shaft (the one I tore apart) is only used when 4WD is engaged, so it probably wasn't even causing the noise.

I'm at 91K miles and recently started getting a rhythmic vibration that I can feel through the floor of the car right under my feet. Here are the symptoms:

- Rowr... rowr... rowr... etc, that speeds up as the car speeds up. It almost sounds like a flat tire.
- I can hear it and feel it through the floor. I do not feel it through the steering.
- It's most noticeable going straight and goes away with slight steering variation.
- When I brake hard, something under the floor clunks and the sound goes away -- until I release the brake pedal.

I don't feel like it's a wheel bearing because there's no play in the wheel and my past wheel bearing failures always sounded like humming. I've never had a bearing go bad in a truck, though, so this could be a completely different beast.

Brakes were recently done and everything seems okay there.

One thing I will say it that removal and replacement of that front drive shaft is cake. Takes about 10 minutes, 8 bolts and it's super light.

I think I'm with you about buying a whole new shaft. I'm wondering if it comes pre-balanced or if you have to have that done. I'll keep you posted what it ends up being.

That type of noise is usually associated with a bad wheel bearing. The R51 wheel bearing is unlike earlier Pathy's in that it is a hub assy., like GM uses. It uses ball bearings instead of tapered roller bearings and when water gets past the seal, it can pit the race and cause a "growl" or "roar" type noise that increases and decreases with speed and may not exhibit excessive play.

As far as the shaft, i wouldn't use epoxy here. A new shaft would come balanced, so there is no reason to get it balanced, again. A driveshaft shop "might" be able to replace the end. I would try finding one at a salvage yard. Try Car-parts.com.

smj999smj wrote:That type of noise is usually associated with a bad wheel bearing. The R51 wheel bearing is unlike earlier Pathy's in that it is a hub assy., like GM uses. It uses ball bearings instead of tapered roller bearings and when water gets past the seal, it can pit the race and cause a "growl" or "roar" type noise that increases and decreases with speed and may not exhibit excessive play.

As far as the shaft, i wouldn't use epoxy here. A new shaft would come balanced, so there is no reason to get it balanced, again. A driveshaft shop "might" be able to replace the end. I would try finding one at a salvage yard. Try Car-parts.com.

As usual, awesome info! Thanks so much!

I would try and find a used one or find oun if LKQ used parts is in your area

So it's the front shaft you are looking to get? Have the rear shaft with new ujoints laying around, in case it's rear one that you need..

DanJetta wrote:
1. JB Weld it. Even though it's only a tiny amount (rebuilding the lip that holds the clip), I'm not sure how this would affect the balance.

2. Order a new propeller shaft ($400) and get it balanced at a transmission shop.

3. Take it to the stealership and have them replace and balance the shaft.

Forget the dealer. Take it in to a driveline shop. If they can't repair it, they can at least get you hooked up with a new one. My previous vehicle, a 2000 Durango, was a POS when it came to lots of things, especially driveline-related problems.

smj999smj wrote:That type of noise is usually associated with a bad wheel bearing. The R51 wheel bearing is unlike earlier Pathy's in that it is a hub assy., like GM uses. It uses ball bearings instead of tapered roller bearings and when water gets past the seal, it can pit the race and cause a "growl" or "roar" type noise that increases and decreases with speed and may not exhibit excessive play.

Good point. I replaced my front right wheel bearing at a little over 100k miles and it did not have any play, just a cyclic noise most noticeable at lower speeds.

FYI, you can get a new oem shaft for less than $300 here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/37200-shaf ... 68196.html

Check out car-part.com - it searches junkyards for whatever part you can think of.

Thanks guys! All awesome suggestions. And thanks for the link to the shaft. I'm so anal with my cars I feel like I have to buy new - even though I'm sure it's totally not necessary.

I'm going to order the shaft and the bearings and report back.

My neighbors are going to hate me... my truck is always jacked up in the driveway surrounded by tools and parts. I feel like I should get a couple of spare parts cars on cinder blocks for the front yard!

Good luck! I'm that neighbor too. Mine will be on jack stands this weekend while I replace the master cylinder, rotors, and hopefully the u-joints.